Have you Tried?

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Posted · Report post

I was looking up the difference between Aluminum Foil (AF) and Bare Metal Foil (BMF). From what I understand (correct me if I am wrong), BMF is A LOT easier to work with than Aluminum Foil. However, unless I'm looking in the wrong spot (and the lack of LHS around my neck of the woods), Aluminum Foil is cheaper and easier to obtain. So, I took to the web one more and found an article about using Aluminum Foil on airplanes. I might attempt this one I get my 68 Dart painted. Now, this is where the community comes in.

Have you ever tried using your basic Household Aluminum Foil for window trims?

Did you have any particular technique while using AF?

Article using AF:

http://www.finescale.com/~/media/import/files/pdf/6/7/d/foiledlightning1.pdf

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Posted · Report post

I did try it at one point. My experience with it is limited, but I think if I were modeling large aluminum panels (like on an aircraft) it'd be the way to go. But for automotive trim...BMF is just wayyyy easier.

I can't get BMF locally since moving back to my hometown from a real city. After searching around at length for the best price including shipping, I've gotten my last few sheets from Scale Dreams. Fast service, too.

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Posted · Report post

I don't think many modelers have used aluminum foil since BMF became well known and widely used. I personally have never used aluminum foil on models but I believe you'd have to use some sort of adhesive to get it to stick to your model.

If you don't have a LHS in your area, you can order BMF online from several hobby sources.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

James, I learned about using Aluminum Foil back when I was building aricraft (I used it on a 1/72nd B-36, that was fun!) and once I got back into cars, I started using it, even before I had heard of BMF. I use it often, and it works as well or better than BMF in most cases, You need a bottle of Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive, and the cheapest Aluminum Foil you can find, becuase the cheaper it is, the thinner it is! The only change to the way Microscale says to apply the adhesive is you paint it on the trim, not on the foil as they suggest, it just works better that way for us car guys. You can't use it for scripts very well, but window and side trim is very easy with it. Here's some examples of models I've done with Aluminum Foil and Metal Foil Adhesive, see if you can tell the difference!

1969Talledega0108-vi.jpg

69Talladega005-vi.jpg

70Mustang0013-vi.jpg

70Mustang0011-vi.jpg

P1280117-vi.jpg

P1280116-vi.jpg

Edited by Custom Mike

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Posted · Report post

P1280117-vi.jpg

May I ask how you made that roadway? The asphalt looks perfect!

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Posted · Report post

OK, I'll play: Torino/aluminum foil; Mustang/BMF; Olds/foil What did I win???

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Posted · Report post

Looking good. Thanks for the feedback guys. Guess I'll try my hand at both.

I have to agree, the asphalt is crazy real.

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Posted · Report post

The look of the asphalt is only partly correct as yellow lines are usually painted on top of the grit.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

OK, I'll play: Torino/aluminum foil; Mustang/BMF; Olds/foil What did I win???

Tom, you've won an all-expenses paid trip to....your house!

Wait, the judges have just informed me that your first answer is only partially correct, it's a Torino Talledega. You have been awarded a consolation prize though, an 8-hour shift at your local McDonald's making the fries!

You are correct though, the Mustang is the only one with BMF. The Talledega has a strip of Detail Master Krome Foil between the tail lights, because the aluminum foil just wouldn't conform to the center badge properly. The Cutlass is 100% aluminum foil, to include the locks, door handles and side marker lights!

The look of the asphalt is only partly correct as yellow lines are usually painted on top of the grit.

Ken, the yellow lines are a reflective (Just like a real road) strip that came on the pieces of Stair Anti-Skid I bought at Lowe's to make this. It's an inch from the edge, so you have to cut carefully to get the lines spaced evenly. I cut a piece of 1/8" plywood, some 1" x 2"'s, nailed it all together, the carefully laid the Anti-Skid down. It's gotta be just right, because once you put pressure on this stuff, it's stuck in that spot. Once it was all done, I added some Railroad Ballast to the edges to simulate a shoulder, and then hit the "asphalt" section with some Flat Black to knock down it's shine. It allows me to take some pretty convincing pictures once the camera is set right, making it hard to tell at times if it's real or a model!

P1280037-vi.jpg

ResinHood010-vi.jpg

69Talladega046-vi.jpg

Edited by Custom Mike

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