Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Back to basics questions and tips

13 posts in this topic

Posted (edited) · Report post

The "Walk then Run" thread got me thinking.

Recently having gotten back into the hobby, I found myself back into the good- and bad- habits I had years ago. My Mini Cooper turned out great, in my opinion, except for the paint, which was always a weak point for me. However having done some research, I figured out where I was going wrong, and my current model the paint looks 100x better.

Even though I am fairly confident in my model building skills (especially now that I think I've figured out paint), there's still a few questions I have.

First off, I need a good glue recommendation. When I was younger I used the "Testors red tube of strings", which got the job done but it was messy and unpredictable, and now I've been using Testors liquid cement (which takes a long time to set) along with Krazy Glue (which sets quickly but isn't always the best option). I just have the feeling there has to be a better glue out there.

Secondly, putty. I have no idea what kind of body putty to use for basic body panel repair and filling in those nasty injector pin marks. Testors grey tube sucks. Plain and simple. At least it was only $2.

Thirdly, thinning white glue for flocking/interior work, what ratio do you use?

I'm sure there's more tips and tricks for beginners here, let's hear them.

Edited by TheRX7Project

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Okay this is just my opinion, and I'm sure there are better ways, but here's what I use.

Glue:

I use regular Super Glue what can be found from Hardware stores. Mine is made by Locktite, but I don't know what brands you have in the USA, so I can't say what is good and what isn't of those you have there. Rocket super glues work fine, too. These work for most of the parts I need to glue. And sometimes I glue parts on place with super glue, but then I make the glueing stronger with liquid glue. I use mainly Plastruct's Plastic Weld or Tamiya, but I've heard that Ambroid Proweld and Model Master works fine too. Sometimes I use Revell liquid glue also. For little chrome parts (Door Handles, Mirrors etc) and for glasses I use white glue because it dries invisible.

Putty:

I use Squadron Green and White putty for smaller places, basically if you don't make big body modifications, that is all you need. It shrinks if applied too thick, but that is not a problem when fixing the simple ejector marks etc. For body modifications and other stuff like that, I use Two Part Bondo that is used on 1:1 car bodies. It doesn't shrink, but it is harder to sand - Green and White putties are very easy to sand and that's why I like them so much.

For interior flocking, I paint the interior floor with that color what the Flocking will be, and then I put the Flocking over wet paint. Once the paint is dry, I remove all unnecessary Flocking from it, and then it's ready for assembly.

Hope it helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Glues -- I generally use Tenax, but I do use the Testor's on occasion. Tenax is a solvent glue. You let capillary action draw it into the joint. Testor's will work that way too, but I usually paint it on, then join the parts. I like it for joining big things like fuselage halves.

When I need an ACC glue, I use Zap. I used to use the gap filling, but have pretty much switched to the thin. The gap filling has a rubbery binder that isn't helpful in most situations.

Fillers -- I've been using Squadron white. It's pretty thick and viscous, but you can thin it down with lacquer thinner. It sands out nicely and takes primer well.

I've always had a lot of paint drama with my models. I think I need to just spend a weekend painting models. Then I would get all the good habits ingrained in my little brain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Glue - I use CA(super glue) on a fair amount of stuff, but I've found it can fog clear parts and chrome; for most glue jobs I use 5-minute epoxy. MicroScale 'Micro Krystal Kleer' is excellent for clear parts like windows and headlight lenses.

Putty - I use Squadron white and Tamiya's 'basic' 1-part gray, depending on the job at hand; both cure fast and sand easy in light application.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Dave- I followed the paint tutorial here: http://gomotorbids.com/LotDetail.cfm?Lot_ID=1235156 and it seems to be working quite well. So far I've laid down the first color coat and wet sanded out some dust that got in it. I'll be following with another color coat then probably 4 coats of clear (more clear = "deeper" looking paint).

This is using Model Master laquers in rattle cans- white primer, then color (current one is Dark Cherry Pearl), then Gloss clearcoat.

Also I warmed my paints before using them by sitting them in a bowl of hot water for about 5 mins.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Glues i use alot of cheap dollar store superglue(4 in a pack and their smaller so if i leave the lid off its not a huge waste).

Iv also started usinh amroid proweld for engine blocks etc. Im a poor modeler so i like to build a kit then 6 months to a year later i tear it down and start over so i dont proweld alot for that reason

Puttys ive been using squadron with good results someyimes it takes a couple light coats in areas dont really use much else but a good tip for filling some holes and fills marks is to heat some sprue and stretch it to size then slather the some proweld or tenax on the hole and push the sprue in till it oozes out let dry sand and shouldny need putty.

When i thin my white glue for flocking i use water and really just guess lol i find you want it to be thin and easy flowing without getting all bubbly.

Just for some info i buy big cans of dupli colors sandable primer in both "hot rod grey" and "hot rod flat black" i get them for about 7$ a can but the last a helluva lot longer then smaller cans. I find i use more of the flat black becuase i find its an excellent flat black for engine parts chassis etc. Iv also never had any problems with it reacting with any of the paints of used and is really good at sealing most styrene is you wanted to use say nail polish for painting which could melt the styrene.

Hope thats all helpful!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

First off, I need a good glue recommendation. When I was younger I used the "Testors red tube of strings", which got the job done but it was messy and unpredictable, and now I've been using Testors liquid cement (which takes a long time to set) along with Krazy Glue (which sets quickly but isn't always the best option). I just have the feeling there has to be a better glue out there.

Tamiya Extra thin (works like proweld), some times I use 25-30 second gap filling CA glue.

Secondly, putty. I have no idea what kind of body putty to use for basic body panel repair and filling in those nasty injector pin marks. Testors grey tube sucks. Plain and simple. At least it was only $2.

I use Vallejo acrylic filler putty. It is a resin based filler and does not shrink, it dries as hard as the styrene and fast too. I also use 25-30 second gap filling ca glue with the kicker.

Thirdly, thinning white glue for flocking/interior work, what ratio do you use?

Try using Vallejo varnishes. I use them straight out of the bottle with embossing powders and they work real great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

....embossing powders.....

what's that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

what's that?

its a fine powder used in scrapbooking, its more to scale than flocking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

huh; i watched a utube demonstration. never knew it existed. do you heat it, too?

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Not heat with embossing powders. Apply the same way as flocking. It goes down much finer. I picked some up at the craft store and it worked pretty well. The plus side is if you apply it before paint it will be the color carpet you want with the paint over it. No more mixing flocking for a special color. I tried it as underhood insulation... I used black and once the white glue cured and the powder was bonded, I brushed clear flat acrylic enamel over it and it looked pretty darn close to my eyes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I want to give a big +1 to Squadron green putty. I bought a tube yesterday and it is working amazing. Easy to sand and it dries quick too. I was actually able to fix a part I almost tossed due to it being too ugly with huge pin marks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Eric , do you have a pic of the embossing power carpet ?? , and i will have to get some of that Squadron putty

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0