Bare Metal Foil

[Zman]

I'm going to try this technique for the first time and was wandering if I apply it before my clear coat or is it ok to clear coat the bare metal foil? Thanks for your help.

[Ramfins59]

While I've never done it yet myself, I'm told by good modeling friends that it is definitely OK, and sometimes a good idea, to clearcoat over BMF. It will prevent the foil from lifting over time due to both the adhesive "letting go" and constant handling making it move or lift.

[Zman]

Thanks for the info Richard. That's kind of what I thought, but wanted to double check.

[Harry P.]

I've used Bare Metal Foil for many years. Never cleared over it, and NEVER had any instance of the foil "letting go," even on models that I foiled literally decades ago. Never, ever.

The idea that BMF "lets go" is a myth. It doesn't happen. You can clear over the foil if it makes you happy, and no harm done... but there's no actual reason to do so.

[Zman]

That's a good point too. Thanks.

[Art Anderson]

I've used Bare Metal Foil for many years. Never cleared over it, and NEVER had any instance of the foil "letting go," even on models that I foiled literally decades ago. Never, ever.

The idea that BMF "lets go" is a myth. It doesn't happen. You can clear over the foil if it makes you happy, and no harm done... but there's no actual reason to do so.

My experience as well. Been using the stuff for almost 40 years, never had the adhesive "let go".

Art

[Blown03SVT]

Let go, probably not, to keep the edges from lifting while handling during assembly actually sounds like an alright idea though. I never cleared over it because I have always heard not too. I never really questioned why other than maybe the clear yellowing which could be mitigated by using a good clear

[Tom Geiger]

I don't clear over my BMF. The body and the chrome / aluminum trim have distinctively different shines. Clearing over it all ruins that.

And like others mentioned above, I've never had BMF peel over time. If anything, it ages to the body and is hard to get off.

[Zman]

Thanks everyone for the input, sounds like I clear coat first and the use the BMF.

[MoparWoman Jamie]

Talk about the Bare Metal Foil leaving go, yep I had the same issue about 5 years ago with store bought BMF. After that I decided to make my own I either use the aluminum foil for bbqs and spray glue OR I use the aluminum duct tape. At lease with the making of your own BMF you have a choice of either a bright shiny side OR a dull looking side for the same price at one time. I would clear coat first and the BMF second.

[crazyjim]

I clear first - BUT I'm using a 2 part urethane clear that I wet sand and polish out. I wouldn't be able to do that if BMF went on first (or I'd be scared to try it). I've never had BMF peel off and I've been using BMF for a long time.

[Yahshu]

I've found the biggest problem with BMF is to much handling will cause it to lift, I've never cleared over it. Off topic a bit, if you keep your BMF in a airtight container in the fridge it'll last for a long long time, I got foil that I bought 4+ years ago & it's still as fresh as when I bought it.

[W-409]

Some kits have very light window trims, that can't be seen well after paint. If you spray clear coat on it, it makes Foiling even harder. At those points, I use BMF and then clear coat and polish, and on those Vintage NASCARS, where decals are installed over BMF, because polishing is impossible if I haven't clearcoated over decals. I think it doesn't make any difference if you BMF before or after clear coat, but I usually do mine after clear coat and polish.

[Guest]

Testors clear enamel will absolutely ruin BMF! I learned that lesson the hard way! Clear lacquers may not yellow over time,but why take the chance? As others have mentioned, it's totally unnecesarry. If you burnish it well, it will never lift.