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Help What glues do you use?


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I am wanting some information on what everyone uses as far as glue.

I currently use the Testors non Toxic Cement for Plastic Models. Its in the

blue and white tube.

I know its not good to use super glue. I was just wondering if there was something

better to use than what I currently use.

Thanks for your help

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Plasti zap C/A works for me, as does bondene (by plastruct) ...Then old testor tube stuff has been obsolete for decades; and in my opinion; the "non-toxic" stuff was made so 7 year olds could get started and minimize brain damage; or the ability to be "huffed".........Anyway; get a bottle of ZAP and you'll be fine............Matt

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Brian, I'll use four or five different glues and cements on any given build... and none of them come from a Testor's tube. If you're limited to a Hobby Lobby you can find most of the types of products you'll need there. The Plasti-Zap C/A that Matthew was referring to in his post is, basically, super glue. Hobby Lobby sells both thick and thin versions under a different brand name in the model department. Thick CA adhesive is great for filling gaps. CA isn't good for gluing chrome or windows, however... it can leave a white residue that is difficult to remove.

A good liquid cement is also important to learn to use... Plastruct Bondene is my cement of choice, but Hobby Lobby should sell the Testors Model Master liquid cement that works well also. Liquid cement bonds the plastic parts together... it works best when you're doing subassemblies before paint, such as gluing the two halves of an engine block together. It will ruin paint if you get it on there, just like tube glue.

The best adhesive for clear and chrome parts is five-minute epoxy. This is a two-part clear adhesive that comes in two tubes- the epoxy and the hardener. you mix the two together in a 1:1 ratio and it sets up very strong about five minutes after mixing, It's very durable and dries clear, so it's an excellent choice for these areas of your model. It also won't attack paint or plastic. On the down side, it can be pretty messy to work with! Due to its strength, I also use epoxy for attaching major assemblies (body/interior tub, body assembly/chassis) together. Five-minute epoxy is available at any hobby store and most hardware stores.

One of my favorite adhesives may be a little harder to find, but it's worth looking for- it's a product called "Micro Krystal Klear". Basically, it's a thick white glue that dries absolutely clear. It's great for the "glass" on instrument faces (although epoxy works for this as well) and to glue small chrome and other trim pieces. It cleans up with water, will not harm any plastic or painted surface, and is absolutely non-toxic. It's not a very strong bond, however, so it's really best used for applications where you need a really invisible bond on a small or light part. Most better stocked hobby stores have it or can get it for you or you can find it online.

Hope this helps!

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I am wanting some information on what everyone uses as far as glue.

I currently use the Testors non Toxic Cement for Plastic Models. Its in the

blue and white tube.

I know its not good to use super glue. I was just wondering if there was something

better to use than what I currently use.

Thanks for your help

The reason that stuff is non-toxic is because they took out the chemicals that make it work! It's junk, toss it out. Jason's reply is a good one... you'll want to use different glues for different situations. I agree with his basics... liquid cement, epoxy, CA and something to use on small chrome scripts and emblems. You can even use good old Elmer's for small things light headlight lenses. Clear acrylic can also be used as a "glue" for headlight lenses and small photoetched emblems and scripts.

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I have a whole selection of glues on the shelf and use whatever is best for the particular job :

-5 Minute Epoxy for when strengh is important or gluing windshields in frames that don't want to fit and stay in place. Epoxy cleans off easily if you have a little squeeze out.

-various thin and thick super glues for quick jobs and photo etch

-Tenax and Tamiya liquid glues.

-white glues like Krystal Klear or Formula 560 Canopy Glue which are excellent for doing clear lights and windshields.

-Future and acrylic clear paints can be used for p/e and other small parts.

-I've even used 2-faced tape on occasion.

-the one glue that I and most modellers have abandoned is the old Testors tube glue although there is a couple of tubes on the shelf in case I find a use for them (not likely though)

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There may be one or two of us who still use a bit of the Testors glue in the orange tube :)

x2. I rarely use super glue, I do use a lot of liquid though, mostly Tenax. And Micro Krystal Clear as well.

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I use mostly Tenax or similar, (but I have heard they stopped making Tenax tho) with the glass tube applicator. Like many others on here, what I am gluing changes what glue I use.

But what I have not heard so far is is watch crystal glue which is great for glass and other clear parts, or parts that you may want to clean up the area after gluing, and peel off the glue etc..I get ,mine online since the hobby shop does not have it.

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  • 6 years later...

I use the Gorilla super glue a lot. Prefer the twin pack set at Lowes or Home Depot. It has more working time than the other super glues I have used in the past. I usually use a tooth pick for application as a little works quite well.

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Depends what I'm doing.  For the chassis, I have been using good ol' Testors toxic glue, along with Flex-i-file liquid cement, because I can adjust and also take apart if needed, makes a better filet too.  I also don't care if a little shrinkage happens with this assembly.

For the body, have been using that super-glue, along with baking soda.  For once, I may use up the bottle before it goes bad.  :lol:  I'm going to soak in water awhile before painting, to dissolve any chunks of baking soda, it can leave pinholes that don't show up until painting.  Hobby Lobby carries all these glues.

IMG_0163_Fotor.jpg

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I use the regular Testors in the orange/red tube for plastic to plastic.I used to use the liquid cement at one point in time but I got a tube of the Testor right now. I use various ca glues for just certain things, like I might use metal for a shift  lever ( just an example), drill a hole drip in some ca and stick the rod in there.

Edited by Dave G.
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On 4/24/2019 at 11:54 AM, Jon Cole said:

Anyone familiar with this type of super glue? Does it work as good as the bottle stuff also shown?

20190424_114034.jpg

The Gorilla glue works fine. But the tips clog with dried glue really fast. I have  had bottles of the extreme power last for years after opening.

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On 4/13/2013 at 8:19 PM, slusher said:

l still use Testors tube glue in the orange tube. l use it for glass also. if l get a tuff part to glue l use super glue...

Same here as well with the addition of I use Arlene's tacky glue for headlights and things like that because it dries clear..

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On 4/25/2019 at 7:28 PM, dshue76 said:

My glues of choice. 

20190425_192449.jpg

Yes, all those (although I use BSI brand CA and accelerator).  I also use 3 different CA viscosities.  And of course 5-minute epoxy is also another adhesive indispensable for my modeling tasks.

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