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Tamiya 1/24 1982 Renault 5 Turbo Rally (Twin's Build)


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I've had a love for the R5 since I first laid me peepers on one back in 1983 ! It was charcoal grey with a charcoal and red interior and some subtle blue accents . Its "L"-shaped tiller really grabbed my attention !

It was apparent that whomever owned the car got it via the black market , as it was sans the hideous US-spec side marker lamps , big truck bumpers , and catalytic converter ;) .

Don't concern yourself too much with the paint fubar , Juan . Afterall , it is a Rallye car and not some primped street car . Battle scars add to the flavour !

BTW , does Tamiya still produce this kit in 'street' form ?? I want one !! Heck , even a race-prepped version would suffice (other than its tyres) ...

Edited by 1972coronet
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Thanks John,

The love for Renault is mutual, This brand was the commanding line back in the 70's and 80's in South America... As a matter of fact I learned how to drive on a Renault 6 (Emerald Green none the less)...

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(That bag of bones on the left would be me :P, the "bee gee" looking guy to the right is my father).

And here is another of him in his 12 Rally...

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Sweet memories!!!

Ah!!!... The Renault 5 Turbo kit is still out there, I saw a couple kits at the local shop.

Edited by BMX Addicts
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Thanks bud.

My friend knows my limitations as far as model building goes, so I guess if I manage to make it hold together AND "if" the car can be taken to him in one piece he should be OK :D

Could not understand the position of the fog lights, so they went up straight...

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Edited by BMX Addicts
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Haha good stuff.. I'll be watching :) It's a lovely easy kit to build, you're gonna enjoy it. I always find non-Japanese kits to be hit and miss.. It's definitely a hit. Remember.. the 426 Hemi ONLY fits with the bonnet with the scoop. If you want a stock look, you're gonna have to go stock underneath too. Look forward to seeing it! :)

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Easy uh???... I was freaking out just by peeking through the bags :wacko: , Thanks God I have your build thread to use as reference.

I think I should stick to Lego blocks :lol:

Ah!!!, I didn't see the excess residues from the convertible molding Mike mentioned in the Sauber thread... Do you think is because this was the Special Edition?

Edited by BMX Addicts
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Both of mine were the Special Edition kits, and both had the same issue with the "leftover" from the '69's vinyl top. Who knows, maybe Revell cleaned up the tooling? Here's a couple of pics of the "issue" on my second body...

68Charger0003-vi.jpg

68Charger0004-vi.jpg

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Thanks for the pics Mike, I caught a few imperfections throughout the trees, but nothing major... Never before attempted to remove logos, door handles or turn signals, nor have I tried the putty, so thinking about cutting and sanding is a whole new thing.

Do you have a thread for that particular build bud?

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Juan, I never finished mine. I started in on it when it was first released a few years ago, and got it all ready for paint. Then I discovered the "softer" Revell new formula plastic...I used House Of Kolors Turquoise paint (Which is a lacquer, meaning it has very "hot" solvents) and promptly ruined the body. I ordered all the ruined parts from Revell, and by the time I got them, I had moved on to about 10 other projects, so it just got boxed back up. One day I'll break it back out and finish it!

68Charger0017-vi.jpg

68Charger0018-vi.jpg

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Hey Mike let that Charger spend the night in the purple pond, then washoff and start over on the primer and paint.

What is Purple Pond?...

I heard on a video that some sort of motor oil will wipe the paint away... Literally dumped several bodies to ruined paints.

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Take "Purple Power" cleaner degreaser you get at the auto parts store in gallon size. Pour it into a tupperware tub deep enough to submerge the body. That stuff will lift the paint without warping the plastic. Leave the car in there for a day or so. Once the paint bubbles up you should be able to just wipe it off. Then wash the body off with soapy water, wipe off, let dry, then you should be back to bare plastic.

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Erik, that body (and all the other associated parts that needed to be body color) would have to be sanded, that texture is the plastic, not the paint. That's what happens when you don't use a Primer/Sealer under a Lacquer paint!

Juan, the "Purple Pond is Super Clean, Purple Power or any number of other Degreasers used to strip most paints (Acrylics and Enamels mainly). If you want to strip Lacquers, you need to use something a bit stronger, like D.O.T. 3 Brake Fluid. Super Clean is great, you can pick it up at Wal-Mart for about $8 a gallon, D.O.T. 3 Brake Fluid you'll have to get from an auto parts store, the cheap store brand will do just fine, Buy some plastic containers big enough for a model body, put whichever stripper you're using in the container (I keep one container of each on hand), and dunk the body in and let it sit overnight. USE RUBBER GLOVES with the Super Clean, it'll take the oils right out of your skin, causing severe cracking of the skin! Once the parts have been in there for a day or so, pull 'em out, rinse 'em off (You might need an old toothbrush for stubborn spots of paint), and prep for paint again!

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