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Sale at Scale Finishes $5 dollar paint( ends on 5-13)


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For $2.50 an oz. that doesn't sound like much of a sale.

Is it some kind of high priced special paint?

CadillacPat

Considering Testors is $7.00+ an ounce this is a quite a deal for most hobbyists, especially those that do rep stock. Sure HOK and other paints marketed towards custom painting can be bought in quantity for cheaper, but that's a pretty good deal for factory matched paint.

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How long does their enamel take to dry?

I have problems with my Zero pain dry too quickly. I know it's a pressure/volume thing, but I'm coming up on the summer, where it will rarely be below 105. I typically can't paint in the summer. I am down to 15 PSI and I can't get a nice creamy layer. It's either bumpy from low pressure, or grainy because it's drying to fast before it hits the car

would switching to an enamel benefit me a bit more? I'm thinking it will be less sensitive and I'd be able to lay down a nice wet coat.

Also, I suck at clearcoating more. I like the idea of polishing the pain itself instead trying to get the paint just right, THEN a clearcoat just right.

I'd love to try this new paint, just looking for feedback.

Last question. Would I be able to use Tamiya Clear over their enamel, or what clear would I be able to use? For clearcoating decals after paint.

Edited by Quick GMC
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How long does their enamel take to dry?

I have problems with my Zero pain dry too quickly. I know it's a pressure/volume thing, but I'm coming up on the summer, where it will rarely be below 105. I typically can't paint in the summer. I am down to 15 PSI and I can't get a nice creamy layer. It's either bumpy from low pressure, or grainy because it's drying to fast before it hits the car

would switching to an enamel benefit me a bit more? I'm thinking it will be less sensitive and I'd be able to lay down a nice wet coat.

Also, I suck at clearcoating more. I like the idea of polishing the pain itself instead trying to get the paint just right, THEN a clearcoat just right.

I'd love to try this new paint, just looking for feedback.

Last question. Would I be able to use Tamiya Clear over their enamel, or what clear would I be able to use? For clearcoating decals after paint.

I don't know the answers to those questions since I'll be trying the stuff out for the first time myself, but from what I know about Jameson and his reputation I'd be willing to bet he'd mix up paint for you with high-temp reducer. But since this sale is for the stuff he was going to take to GSL I guess you'd have to take what you can get at the sale price.

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I have used Duplicolor , Testors, Mr Hobby clears all with out problems over SF paint , you can use any primer as well.

If you do light mist coats of the clear over the enamels, you should be ok, but I would do a test first

I have no idea for the dry time on his enamels, I have not used those yet

Yes, Brett is correct about getting what he has on sale, but you never know, try sending him an email and ask him, he is a great guy to deal with

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I don't know the answers to those questions since I'll be trying the stuff out for the first time myself, but from what I know about Jameson and his reputation I'd be willing to bet he'd mix up paint for you with high-temp reducer. But since this sale is for the stuff he was going to take to GSL I guess you'd have to take what you can get at the sale price.

Thanks, I will email him. I don't mind paying the full price if it's good stuff, which it appears to be.

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as far as cure times: get a dehydrator and set it in there a couple hours and call it good.

Been putting this off for a while, but I think now it's time. Need to have all the angles covered, or I'm about to go insane. For each finished paintjob I have, there is 3-5 hours of sanding, 2-3 trips to a container of brake fluid, my wife yelling at me for leaving the brake fluid next to the kitchen sink and me losing it when one of my dogs almost gets a hold of model parts when I leave the door open during my trips back and forth to the kitchen. My fun hobby is driving me up a wall. I'm not giving up though. One day I will paint something that doesn't need sanding, and then I will take a giant nap.

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Maybe you guys from outside the US can work a deal. Have a forum member buy the paint for you, and then they ship the paint to you.

I would be careful though. There is a reason they don't allow the shipping. You'd have to check it out first. Don't want people trying to help out getting nailed for shipping HazMat products.

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Maybe you guys from outside the US can work a deal. Have a forum member buy the paint for you, and then they ship the paint to you.

I would be careful though. There is a reason they don't allow the shipping. You'd have to check it out first. Don't want people trying to help out getting nailed for shipping HazMat products.

I talked with Jameston when he was here a few weeks back about Intl shipping, but I can not remember why he does not do it

I am going to email him the link for this thread and maybe if he has time can come an explain why

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Been putting this off for a while, but I think now it's time. Need to have all the angles covered, or I'm about to go insane. For each finished paintjob I have, there is 3-5 hours of sanding, 2-3 trips to a container of brake fluid, my wife yelling at me for leaving the brake fluid next to the kitchen sink and me losing it when one of my dogs almost gets a hold of model parts when I leave the door open during my trips back and forth to the kitchen. My fun hobby is driving me up a wall. I'm not giving up though. One day I will paint something that doesn't need sanding, and then I will take a giant nap.

You need to learn the ways of the Norbie Technique - This was posted by John K Dezan on another board, but it's the most concise summary of the Norbie Technique I've ever seen. I cut and pasted if for posterity. I should have printed out and framed it.

Date: Monday, 17 October 2011, at 8:02 p.m.

TSC: Thin (Paint) - roughly the same as milk.

Soft (air pressure) - 10-12 PSI. I've shot

some paint at 8 PSI by accident but if the paint is thin enough, it'll work.

(in) Close - You should be working with your

airbrush about an inch from the work surface.

You may have to unlearn your bad habits in

order to do this but it can be done. You may have to change some of the

variables slightly depending on how heavy your airbrush finger is today, how

thin/thick your paint is, etc. but it can be done.

I was a decent painter before Norbie taught me

his way of painting. I don't know as I'd refer to myself as a Master of painting

but I'm much better than I was.

For those wondering, Yes, Norbie is a real

person. Yes, he posts here and has even hinted at just who he is.

For those that have tried painting with

Norbie's TSC, can I get a show of hands as to whom has tried and whether if

you've been able to do it.

For the record, the Hudson has been painted

with Tamiya Sprays gloss white and black (both decanted) on bare plastic.

Tonight's Cobra was primed with Dupli Color

Hot Rod Primer followed by two paint sessions of Ford Guardsman Blue from Scale

Finishes.

My airbrush is a piece of ###### (words of

others) Testors Aztec A370 and I thin my paint with Nason Fast Temp

Reducer

John

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I have used and like these paints. I have also used his clear over Testors one shot laq paints with great results. They are ready to shoot, and to me worth the money. On top of that, he is a great guy to deal with. I have never ordered from him via mail, but I have bought from his at shows person to person.

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