Dispelling Modeling Myths

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There's a few myths, or maybe "Half-truths" floating around on the forum about how people go about certain meathods or achieve certain results. Some of these may have some folks confused, or even scared to try a new technique. There are a few "myths" that I would like your help to get straightened out, and if you guys can think of more, please post them!

#1- Alclad, I've read on several instances where Alclad was hard to work with because of it being so delicate, but I've also read where it's just as tough as kit chrome... so which is it?

#2- Scribing open panels, BMF makes a tool just for this, yet guys insist on claiming to use the back-side of a #11 blade (which I can never get to follow the groove). How many of you actually use an Exacto blade to open panels?

#3- Fine line masking, again something that can be purchased, but when people ask the painter how they get such fine lines masked, they always come back with the old "stacking of the blades" response...

I don't want to start any arguements amongst the members, just would like to bring the truth about some things to light is all! ^_^

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Just from my own experience.

#1: Alclad is as tough, if not tougher, than kit chrome. Follow their instructions to the letter, and the results speak for themselves.

#2: I rarely bother to open panels. But I used the sharp side of a new blade when I have. It worked for me. Sorry I can't help you more here.

#3: I use BMF as a masking agent when I need a sharp line. Or a fine, narrow line. I use a straight edge to get the width I need.

I am no prize-winning modeler, so caveat emptor if advice comes from me.

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Posted · Report post

1: haven't used alclad so I can't help there

2: I use the blade with great results, when it does slip out, I just sand it out.

3: never touched bmf, hardly anyone comments on my builds so I don't have to give the "stack the blades" answer. I simply use frog tape or tamiya tape for my lines. Great results

Overall patience and practice makes a better model.

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From my experience:

#1. I don't think Alclad is as tough as chrome, if you handle it too much it seems to rub off.

#2 I use the backside of an exacto blade to open up door panels. If I am just scribing panel lines to make them deeper I use a dental tool..

#3 I agree with W- Machine on the BMF for a sharp line, but I always spray away from the edge to avoid buildup of paint. Also Tamiya make a fine line masking tape that I have used and have had good results with.

You will probably get a hundred different answers to each of these question. Like Kaleb stated Overall patience and practice makes a better model.

Edited by customsrus

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Posted · Report post

The only one I have experience with is #2, and yes, I use the back side of the blade to open panels. Works great.

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Posted · Report post

1. Alclad is tough on the finish, but a lot of handling and it will rub off. Handling with latex gloves will eliminate any issues.

2. Backside of razor blade, but I sand it with a coarse sanding stick first. Make a super sharp point that won't run off the line.

3. Still trying to figure this one out.

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1. Alclad is a fantastic product once mastered.

2. I use the back of a #11 blade, depends on how fast or slow I'm going as to if the blade slips.

3. I use automotive masking tape for fine lines, have also used BMF & Tamiya tape,, if they're appled correctly I''ve had no problems with any.

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Posted · Report post

1. I haven't used alclad on a model...yet.

2. I use either the back edge of an xacto blade or a sharpened dental pick.

3. I use either 3M blue vinyl fine line tape and Line O Tape.

here's an example of some simple line that were done with a combination of tapes mentioned above in 1/4",1/8",1/16",1/32", and 1/64".

IMG_6411.jpg

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1. Alclad is great, surprisingly easy to use if you go easy. Rubs off with handling.

2. I use the blade. Don't like it. Would like to explore other possibilities.

3. No experience. Use BMF & fine Tamiya tape well burnished.

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1. I myself just bought some Alclad, but have not used it yet.

2. Yes I use the back of exacto knife for scribing, but also use the blade part.

3. As for making a fine line, I use Bare Metal Foil or 3M Scotch tape with sharp crisp line results.

Painting I always spray at an angle, as customsrus does with good results. I'm not a great painter, but I guess fair...I get the job done!

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1. I haven't used alclad on a model...yet.

2. I use either the back edge of an xacto blade or a sharpened dental pick.

3. I use either 3M blue vinyl fine line tape and Line O Tape.

here's an example of some simple line that were done with a combination of tapes mentioned above in 1/4",1/8",1/16",1/32", and 1/64".

IMG_6411.jpg

Wow, that is really cool, awesome job on that one

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As mentioned already, follow the directions...actually follow them...lol...and alclad is pretty dang durable. You can't handle the begeezus out of kit chrome and have it never wear off or dull down a bit, either.

Panel scribers aren't specifically for opening panels...they're actually for creating or refining the panel lines. Aircraft modelers have to do this a LOT, which unless I'm mistaken is what segment of the hobby bmf was actually developed for. I didn't even consider the question in any other context than that until I read everyones replies...but if I answer the question in the context I thought it was intended, then yes I use #11's for this but really wish I had a good purpose-made panel scriber.

I can't really comment on #3, but to say that for what really basic masking I do, I more often than not use bmf at the edge and block off large areas with tape. I've never been able to get a line that consistently satisfies me from tape...fineline or otherwise.

I guess I can make one other comment to that one - some crazy stuff is possible with spray cans, but an airbrush is infinitely better for intricate designs, no matter what kind of masking process is used, if for no other reason than the ability to control volume of paint.

Just my two cents bucks worth (inflation, ya know).

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I use a combination of different scribers including the back of a #11.

This is my favourite. Olfa PCS Panel Line Scorer

495339878E61E5D1E46BDB49695492DC1E9BAC.j

It makes quick work of a styrene car body and is even great for cutting 5mm perspex.

It does however need a guide line cut first with a scribing stylus (if there is no existing panel gap to follow).

However, you wanted new myths. Here's a few I used to believe.

Airbrushes are a pig to clean so rattle cans are better.

You have to thin enamel paint with enamel thinners.

One part (cures by evaporation) cellulose knifing putty doesn't shrink back.

Two Pack clear isn't worth the health & safety hazards.

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#1- Alclad- IME, not extremely tough to use, takes some proficiency to get a feel for using it. Seems to be fairly durable to me but I don't get crazy with handling either. It's a coating on plastic... it will rub through just the same as kit chrome or other paints.

#2- Scribing open panels- I use different tools for different situations, no one tool is the perfect tool. #11 blade is the old school tried and true method. I also have scriber tools, and dental picks as well as a razor saw. At least no one is still using an Auto World hot knife to open panels.

#3- Fine line masking-

I am not much for complicated paint jobs. If i need fine tape I make it out of painters tape. Put a strip down on a sheet of glass lay down a machinist rule and cut with a #11 blade.

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There's a wide variety of tools and techniques. What works well for one guy might not work at all for you, and what you swear by some other guy might swear at. Try new things, do what works for you, and don't believe everything you read on the Internet.

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OK ... I'm a little confused. I keep reading that Alclad rubs off when handled. Now, I use Alclad primarily for small parts that I'd like to be chromed or wheels and bumpers so ... how many of us are actually picking our models up by the bumpers or wheels? :huh:

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1. Alclad I use it Love the results, much more durable then testors metalizers. But then, I don't handle my builds very often after completion.

2. I use a #11 blade, slip of the hand happens & easily fixed no sweat...

3. I use the Tamiya masking tape and a avid user of it alone. BMF for mask, haven't yet but maybe if in a pinch I would.

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1. Alclad chrome is great, easy to use. Rubs off with handling. over coat with Alclad Aqua Gloss #602. Result is that it is more durable and realistic looking in my opinion.

2. I use the blade to open panels. I use the BMF tool to deepen panel lines.

3. Use any tape you want. seal the painted edge with a bit of future. paint. run the sharp edge of a #11 blade along the painted side of the tape to break the future seal and remove.

Edited by jaydar

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here's an example of some simple line that were done with a combination of tapes mentioned above in 1/4",1/8",1/16",1/32", and 1/64".

IMG_6411.jpg

And I've been wondering if my skill set is good enough to mask off and paint a headlight bucket on a 16th scale Mustang....

You guys do amazing work.

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and on #2 opening up just about anything. I rigged this up to cut (open) the second set of wheel openings. ;)

DSCF0003-3.jpg

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Posted · Report post

There's a few myths, or maybe "Half-truths" floating around on the forum about how people go about certain meathods or achieve certain results. Some of these may have some folks confused, or even scared to try a new technique. There are a few "myths" that I would like your help to get straightened out, and if you guys can think of more, please post them!

#1- Alclad, I've read on several instances where Alclad was hard to work with because of it being so delicate, but I've also read where it's just as tough as kit chrome... so which is it?

#2- Scribing open panels, BMF makes a tool just for this, yet guys insist on claiming to use the back-side of a #11 blade (which I can never get to follow the groove). How many of you actually use an Exacto blade to open panels?

#3- Fine line masking, again something that can be purchased, but when people ask the painter how they get such fine lines masked, they always come back with the old "stacking of the blades" response...

I don't want to start any arguements amongst the members, just would like to bring the truth about some things to light is all! ^_^

I see neither truth nor falsehood in any of these so-called "myths", but rather that regardless of tools or materials that may be available, many of us prefer techniques which we have developed over the years, that work well for us.

Bear in mind, not everyone has seen with their own eyes, nor had available locally, many of the tools and materials that can be found in the hobby and related marketplace nowadays. Additionally, not every modeler likes every possible tool that has come down the pike, being comfortable with the tool or technique that has served them well over time.

For some modelers, it's the trip to the finished project that is important, for others, it's the finished project--regardless of the route taken to achieve it.

Art

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Posted · Report post

4. Paint won't stick to polished plastic.

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Never used Alclad. Never seen any that looked as good as kit chrome. When I need something re chromed, I send it to Dale at LittleMotorKarCo. The few bucks he charges is well worth the effort, time and aggravation I save.

I use a razor saw, photo etch saw and occasionally the Xacto blade to open panels with. I get much better results with the razor saw and photo etch saw than I do with the Xacto blade.

I use Tamiya tape almost exclusively for masking. I also use the blue painters tape. But, when I do, I always cut a new edge onto it.

The scallops on this model were masked with a single piece of 1 1/2" blue painters tape. It also dispells the myth about one part putty shrinking, cracking and falling out since the head light buckets are made entirely from Squadron's white putty. The putty is around 1/4"-3/8" thick in areas. The bars holding them up are glued into holes drilled into the putty. The body work on the chop is also done with white putty. So much for that myth.

008-17_zps90abbf77.jpg

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Posted · Report post

Now that's a work of art Roger. :o

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Nice build Roger!

I use Squadron white putty too with no issues.

What about the myth that if you ever build the perfect model that you're really happy with,you turn inside out?

Hasn't happened to me and probably won't. :lol:

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