Erik Smith Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Without further ado... Kit roof be damned, I'm building this thing. Quick note: It appears they forgot to shrink the 5 all the way on the passenger side :0 This is cool, though: This is with the interior floor in place - note the molded in "ribbing" in the tranny tunnel. Nice touch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Eric, this kit chassis and drivetrain really are nice! I can see using the 5.0/T5 in a lot of other projects. As I have to wait to get my order, I will be watching what you do with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelson Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Glad to see one being built!are you building it stock or slightly modified? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 Glad to see one being built!are you building it stock or slightly modified? Totally stock. I will ad some wires and may make a few slight changes, but that's it. I almost screwed the second piece I glued on - the heads. They look the same, but there is a small difference that may make a big difference in how the exhaust fits later: Make sure the spark plug hole is furthest to he front and the exhaust port furthest back. I had cut both heads off to prep and didn't know which end was up, so I googled this: Good reference. First bit of paint: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 That engine looks nice. I'll look forward to watching what happens with this. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Erik, nice start, you are the second person going ahead and building one, I will build one as well, already know what its going to be built as. Got any colors in mind for the body ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Erik, nice start, you are the second person going ahead and building one, I will build one as well, already know what its going to be built as. Got any colors in mind for the body ? Almond Biege Pearl. I love sleeper/old-man-bought-a-fast-car look. A few mold lines to remove, nothing major: And the engine/transmission - ill add a wash to the tranny: The instructions call for the blue oil pan, a few reference shots had a gloss gray, so I don't m ow what's correct. Sooooo many of these cars are modified its not real easy getting good, stock shots. Little bit of primer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) Pan and block were originally 'Machine Gray' in color. Most heads were left natural iron or painted Gray as well. Valve covers are aluminum (sand cast, so Alclad White Aluminum would work for them), same with the water pump. Headers were a stainless-tint when new, and the upper intake was a 'Light Metallic Gray' powdercoated affair. Throttle body and EGR spacer would be aluminum as well, with the intake hose and airbox being semi-gloss Black. The MAF will be aluminum body with semi-gloss Black sensor unit. IF you are doing the SSP, the coolant hoses will be a light Blue color, if not, rubber black. Oil filter will be white. Trans will be sand cast aluminum as well, with the bell housing being a slightly darker shade. The clutch fork cover on the bell housing will be Gloss Black, same with the shifter base plate. Edited May 26, 2013 by whale392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Thanks Bradley. I am chalking this one up as a learning build - hopefully others will too! I have zero experience with Fox body Mustangs, so...yup. How about the cooling fan? White or black? Or? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Eric, I mis-spoke. The valve covers should be the same gray as the upper intake. My set are natural aluminum, but they have had the coating stripped. My apologies, and I wanted to get the correct info to you. Cooling fan is white with the center being an aluminum color (as it is the viscus clutch unit). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) So the engine is in purple bath thanks to Bradley steering me away from the Revell painting chart - which is mostly just made up recommendations (blue engine, black fan, etc). Body is in second coat of primer and I've been prepping the hood. Note how the ejector pin marks (generally the bane of underhood structure) sand off easily: Edited May 26, 2013 by Erik Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bandit1 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Cool...will be watching even with the darned issues! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972coronet Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Additionally , Ford started painting their engines in the aforementioned "Ford Engine Grey" for the 1983 model year (heck , even Monogram *asserted* that Ford's engines were blue on the then-new 1987 Turbo Coupe Thunderbird !). Good call on stripping that nice-shade-of-blue-although-it's-not-stock from your engine . I too am closely following your WIP , as I am curious as to its outcome ; how the completed kit is going to appear . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) John is correct on the early blocks being Ford Engine Blue. When Ford switched over to the roller-lifter architecture, they also switched colors to a more uniform Gray. When it comes to the 2.3 (turbo or non-turbo), they generally followed their V8 brothers (although, I did have an 85 Merkur XR4Ti 2.3T that was Black. By that time, they too should be in Gray). Edit note: Coming back from my garage to add; BOTH of my 2.3T blocks (one an 84 GT Turbo and the other an 87 Thunderbird TurboCoupe) are in Black. Both are factory paintjobs. I will get the correct 2.3/2.3T colors for the years if anyone is interested (probably not here, as this is being built up as the V8 car). Edited May 26, 2013 by whale392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Pan and block were originally 'Machine Gray' in color. Most heads were left natural iron or painted Gray as well. Valve covers are aluminum (sand cast, so Alclad White Aluminum would work for them), same with the water pump. Headers were a stainless-tint when new, and the upper intake was a 'Light Metallic Gray' powdercoated affair. Throttle body and EGR spacer would be aluminum as well, with the intake hose and airbox being semi-gloss Black. The MAF will be aluminum body with semi-gloss Black sensor unit. IF you are doing the SSP, the coolant hoses will be a light Blue color, if not, rubber black. Oil filter will be white. Trans will be sand cast aluminum as well, with the bell housing being a slightly darker shade. The clutch fork cover on the bell housing will be Gloss Black, same with the shifter base plate. Eric, I mis-spoke. The valve covers should be the same gray as the upper intake. My set are natural aluminum, but they have had the coating stripped. My apologies, and I wanted to get the correct info to you. Cooling fan is white with the center being an aluminum color (as it is the viscus clutch unit). Great information, cut and pasted! Thanks for that, I was just going to post a engine colors question before I dug into mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Great information, cut and pasted! Thanks for that, I was just going to post a engine colors question before I dug into mine. Dittos!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 I do what I can, and that isn't much I am afraid. Just so you know, the roof is .084" too short (a 2" chop in 1:1). If you need any other color references, let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Gray is drying on the engine, so I have been primering interior parts. Here is the dash after an initial sanding and primer, and one thing I thought was just part of the dash is actually a mold line (I think the speakers are located there?): So I'll be doing some scraping and sanding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Yes, Eric, those are speaker grills. Ford put a 3" speaker there, along with at least 5" x 7" speakers in the rear. The Premium Sound option got you the 5" round door speakers and a pre-amp in the dash. I was thinking I had pictures of those (from my car) but scanning my album shows none. The speaker grill lines go horizontally across the piece, from the top to the bottom of it. So, once you have it sanded/scraped, take a #11 and start scribing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Smith Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Engine is painted gray. I mixed Tamiya Light Gray XF-66 with a couple drops of black to get the color close to what I saw and added a coat of Future for semi-gloss shine. Transmission is Alclad Aluminum, Dark Aluminum with a light spray of Vallejo wash to darken the bell housing a little more. I'll give it all a little dark gray wash later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Engine/trans look good, Ben. I will have to see it with the wash on, but I would still hit the trans/bell housing with a bit of Dullcoat to kill the 'shine'. Also, on the 'flat' of the bellhousing (the side facing us in the picture), there sould be a raised steel cover that is Gloss black. That would be the clutch fork cover, and the clutch cable would go into it. Sorry the image is blurry, but you can see the clutch actuator fork sticking out of the side of the bell. My T5 out on the bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 (edited) Also a bit blurry, but this is my engine in-bay at 270,000 miles. T5 from the front side. Edited May 27, 2013 by whale392 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abell82 Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 That's one rusty can of 134a LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whale392 Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 You should see the can of R12, Jason! Those pics were taken at mom and dads, in St.Cloud, Florida 5 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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