Achieving negative camber. How?

[SIL-EIGHTY]

Hey guys, I'd Like to know.

Also could someone tell me the various ways of getting lower ride height?

Thanks!

[Ace-Garageguy]

NEGATIVE CAMBER : Several ways, the best being similar to real-world practice.

On a solid rear-axle, you can't really get any noticeable amount. On a solid front-axle, you can get a little by bending it into the axle itself. These probably aren't the types of cars you'd be trying to get negative camber under anyway though.

Strut-type suspensions work best by relocating the top of the spring / shock inward relative to the body shell, just like in real cars.

On a swing-axle, like an old VW Bug or Corvair REAR end, negative camber just happens when you LOWER the car.

Control-arm type suspensions work best by relocating the inboard ends of the UPPER control arms farther inboard, again just like real cars.

Or, you can just hack the stub-axles and / or backing plates off and reglue them, if you don't much care about accuracy.

Edited June 6, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ace-Garageguy]

LOWER RIDE HEIGHT : Again, following real-world practice works best and makes the most believable models.

Cars with solid-axle, transverse leaf-spring front ends can use dropped axles (available in some kits and aftermarket) shaved springs (you remove material from the top of the spring where it attaches to the chassis), or raised spring perches (you remove material from the BOTTOM of the chassis where the spring attaches). Parallel leaf-spring solid axles require the spring perches to be raised on the sides of the chassis, or the ends of the springs to be shaved to fit farther UP into the perches. If the springs are UNDER the axle, spacers placed between the axle and the spring (lowering blocks) will lower the car.

Solid rear-axles work the same way, except there's no "dropped axle" option in back. If the axle is on coil springs, shortening the tops of them works...sometimes requiring other things to be bent and/or clearanced to allow the car to come down.

Strut-type suspensions can be lowered by shortening the tops of the spring / shock and bending the rest of the suspension parts to fit. If there's enough meat on the spindle, you can sometimes also relocate the stub-axle UPWARD relative to its original position.

Control-arm type independent suspensions are most easily lowered by cutting off the stub axles and relocating then UP on the spindles by the amount you want the car to come down. This simulates "dropped spindles" in the real world. This works very well on cars like C5-C6 Corvettes, front and rear. If you want to go lower still, the control arms have to be cut off and moved UP relative to the body. Careful measuring is important.

SOME kits have separately-molded front spindles that can be easily swapped side for side and turned upside down to achieve a little lowering as well.

Edited June 6, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[SIL-EIGHTY]

Ok thanks a lot man!