madhorseman Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Ain't no 'thang, Mike....(I know, not the title again ) maybe You can nickname this build Maxheadroom?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 (edited) EDIT - Sorry, know what? it's kinda silly to pimp a blog when you can just point right to an example (and actually even make it more topical in doing so): ...I grabbed up the Rat Roaster and the '90 Mustang kits. I still haven't opened the Roaster, but have looked over the Mustang and I don't have a problem with this kit at all... For those who ware concerned about minor, if not imaginary, issues get a life. I am going to build it. Gee, Mike, that's quite an imagination on ya there. That said, there's no quibbling with your results. Much, MUCH better. In fact, I think your progress shots would be very helpful for Revell to see. Edited June 11, 2013 by Chuck Kourouklis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRoofNut Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Like seeing this project unfold. Gives me ideas and shows what a bit of ingenuity can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 Ain't no 'thang, Mike....(I know, not the title again ) maybe You can nickname this build Maxheadroom?? I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Today, I thought that I would correct the rear bumper. It sticks out about 2mm too far. I started by cutting it off of the body at the seam: Remove about this much: Add styrene strip to the top of the bumper cover to bring the taillight ridge rearward, because you just moved this detail forward so it wouldn't be under the lenses. A very simple and quick mod, but it makes a difference. The next modification in line is making the rear wheel wells smaller in length. -MJS Edited November 3, 2013 by Maindrian Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemopar70 Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Wow! You did a great job correcting this kit so far, you may try to correct the kit windows to the modded height and vacuform new ones with this master.. I'm thinkin so, for mine, later!! Keep it on, can't wait to see more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Mmmmm. Nice work, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Nice work. Overall it's interesting to see where this kit was off. It doesn't seem like it's off that far, but once you see where it was off, it's hard not to spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Nice work. Overall it's interesting to see where this kit was off. It doesn't seem like it's off that far, but once you see where it was off, it's hard not to spot. Exactly. On a side note, when I opened my kit and held up the body, my lovely wife commented that she could see the errors at once. She was not privy to the conversations here on the board, nor did I speak about them in her presence. She is a car person, and knows her Mustangs. Though she has never built a model she recognized the problem immediately. I found that interesting. G Edited June 12, 2013 by Agent G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Very. Think Revell could benefit from having a look at this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wonderbread Kustomz Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Looks real good... Me personally, I would build it without a care in the world about the roof... Glad you decided to fix it though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbuzzed Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 "The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies." Mike, I think the big problem with this kit is the fact that so much reference material is available to Revell, in the form of the actual, full-size car, yet, they blew it- just like with the "Rat Roaster". It is a given that there are problems that must be dealt within one way or another with every kit, but why should major proportional/dimensional problems like this exist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent G Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 "The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies." Mike, I think the big problem with this kit is the fact that so much reference material is available to Revell, in the form of the actual, full-size car, yet, they blew it- just like with the "Rat Roaster". It is a given that there are problems that must be dealt within one way or another with every kit, but why should major proportional/dimensional problems like this exist? So, so much reference material. Volumes and volumes as well as many, many personally owned rides. I am taking copius notes and will attempt the same remedy with the next kit. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Bang-on, Mr B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Mike, your skills are pretty impressive. But what you've done to the kit body so far, despite your modestly, is NOT within the skill set of the average modeler. Now you may fire back and say that the "average modeler" doesn't even care about making all the corrections to the body that you're making, or would even notice any of the problems... and that may very well be true. But I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Kourouklis Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 ...I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job. Wow. Such a sudden flood of sentiment totally beyond dispute for me. Right as rain, Harry. mod·el (mdl) n. 1. A small object, usually built to scale, that represents in detail another, often larger object If we accept that a model must have the accuracy implicit in that definition, and that a model kit's very reason for existence is to satisfy a reasonable expectation for that accuracy, then yours is really the only correct and reasonable contention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abell82 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Curious to know... have you thought out how your going to fix the trunk lid? Maybe a pie cut to each corner, and a bit of styrene strip to the middle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Wow! You did a great job correcting this kit so far, you may try to correct the kit windows to the modded height and vacuform new ones with this master.. I'm thinkin so, for mine, later!! Keep it on, can't wait to see more... Thanks Michel. I can do the glass masters easily enough, but I don't have a vacu-form machine. But it's possible that one of the Moonlight Modelers does. Mmmmm. Nice work, Mike. Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car? -MJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 "The roof is to low. The world truly has come to an end. Revell is the Devil. I'm so disappointed, I think I'll switch hobbies." Mike, I think the big problem with this kit is the fact that so much reference material is available to Revell, in the form of the actual, full-size car, yet, they blew it- just like with the "Rat Roaster". It is a given that there are problems that must be dealt within one way or another with every kit, but why should major proportional/dimensional problems like this exist? John, They shouldn't exist. You can almost hear the Revell employees pointing out the roof problem to upper management, and being ignored because they were already obliged to accept a very expensive body die. (and they hoped that no one would notice) Mike, your skills are pretty impressive. But what you've done to the kit body so far, despite your modestly, is NOT within the skill set of the average modeler. Now you may fire back and say that the "average modeler" doesn't even care about making all the corrections to the body that you're making, or would even notice any of the problems... and that may very well be true. But I still contend that there is no reason that any modeler should have to go to the lengths you're going through to correct the body of a newly-tooled kit before you can even build the kit, just to get to the point where the body is accurate! Getting the body accurate was the manufacturer's job. Harry, No arguments here. I don't want to give the impression that this is all OK with me, I'd have much preferred that it was correct out of the box. This is just to show what can be done to the kit that they decided to give us. It will be interesting to see how the magazine(s) handle this particular kit in their new kit review sections; will they kid-glove Revell so as not to ruffle feathers? or call it as they see it and politely pull no punches? -MJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) Thanks Michel. I can do the glass masters easily enough, but I don't have a vacu-form machine. But it's possible that one of the Moonlight Modelers does. Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car? -MJS Thats what I am doing with mine I wonder if the master caster would be willing to cast it for you/us ?, if so, I would be more willing to try this myself, but the front/rear windows is what is holding me up, I am waiting to see what you do when you get to that point. Edited June 13, 2013 by martinfan5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Cole Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Are the front or rear window glass compound curved? And if not, could the glass be cut from thin flat stock, and glued down to shallow mounting lips? Seeing this modification done, makes me want to buy the kit and try my own fix. This may be one of those "It's only plastic" moments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Curious to know... have you thought out how your going to fix the trunk lid? Maybe a pie cut to each corner, and a bit of styrene strip to the middle? I haven't decided yet, I need to study the 1:1 a little more closely to see how far in the slope goes to the center. The duck tail will just be a blended styrene strip in the middle, tapering to the ends. Are the front or rear window glass compound curved? And if not, could the glass be cut from thin flat stock, and glued down to shallow mounting lips? Seeing this modification done, makes me want to buy the kit and try my own fix. This may be one of those "It's only plastic" moments. Yes, but barely. Single curve would work, although vacuformed would be best. -MJS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Thanks Dan. You building an AZ DPS car? -MJS Yep. One of them. Also a Colorado State Patrol, a Kansas Highway Patrol, and possibly another draft pick to be announced later. Nice looking kit other than the body issues and the cheesy cartoony highway patrol decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maindrian Pace Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) Late last night, the rear wheel wells shrank down to stock size. It started off with the removal of the rocker moldings, a detail that no aero Fox has ever had. Why are those wells so large? Most likely for an upcoming drag version. Big slicks fit perfectly. AMT kits in the '60s and '70s had stock wheel wells with radius guides in the back of the 1/4s, add this to the list of things that it would have been nice to see instead. There are several ways to do this. I like to add layers of styrene strip that overhang the inside and outside of the fenders, and carve/sand down to size. This body takes two layers on the front, and three on the back of the wells. I used files, a new exacto blade, and a sheet of 400 grit paper wrapped around a Sharpie to contour the new plastic. I used the photos and a wheel/tire as a guide to get the shape roughed in. Still a little bit of contouring to do here and there, and then it's off to the deck lid. -MJS Edited November 3, 2013 by Maindrian Pace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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