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Broken windshield repair

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Posted · Report post

I recently broke the windshield of the Nascar build I'm working on masking it. Broke it right down the center. What is the best way to repair it or glue it back together ? Is there any tips or tricks to make the process easier ? I realize you glue it back together so no sarcastic replies are needed ha ha. Just wondering if there are possibly any tips or tricks to making the repair process easier ?

It doesn't seem to be a clean break as the two halves don't seem to want to mate up perfectly to glue it back together.

Also, after painting the black outline around the trim of the windshield, (and before I got smart and masked the outline I'm painting), my lines were a bit crooked. So I used a brush dipped in lacquer thinner to straighten my lines. It hazed when using the lacquer thinner. Will dipping the windshield in future get rid of the hazing from the lacquer thinner OR/AND if not what can I do to get rid of the hazing from the lacquer thinner and get the clear shine again on the windshield ? Thanks in advance for answers to either of these questions.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I have never repaired or read of a break repair in model glass. You might have to get another one. When masking glass put the tape on your shirt and pull it off a couple times so it will pull off glass easy. l do it all the time. Good luck..

Edited by slusher

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Posted · Report post

I have never seen clear styrene succesfully repaired. As Carl mentioned a new replacement might be in order or possibly scratch building a new one out of clear acetate sheet

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Posted (edited) · Report post

There are a couple of options you can experiment with. First, you have to glue the original windshield back togeher, fill in the seam and make it as invisible as possible. the joining has to be very strong, because both of the options below require pressure to make a duplicate windshield:

1. Find someone who can do a clear vacuform for you.

Or

2. Once upon a time, there was a product called Squadron Thermaform (no longer available), used mostly by aircraft modelers to duplicate canopies. This can work with other clear material if it's thin enough. I recommend using a heat gun instead of the candle process shown below.

Picture2-2_zps732a82e4.png

Picture3_zps566e28cb.png

Edited by sjordan2

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Another thought...if the windshield doesn't have any major curves in it and you can cover it fully with a piece of masking tape - and the tape doesn't wrinkle - draw an outline of the windshield on the tape and use it as a template to cut out a piece of clear sheet styrene. I've only done that to provide clearer glass for flat vintage car windows.

Question: What car are you building? Can the break be covered with the vertical rods seen on older NASCAR windshields?

Edited by sjordan2

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Posted · Report post

There is no way to glue a clear windshield together without the seam showing. It's impossible. As stated, your best bet is to either find a a replacement or make your own out of thin clear sheet acetate.

As far as your crooked black trim, the way to do it is first mask off the part of the glass that will stay clear, then either spray or brush paint the black areas. Doing it freehand, with a brush, without masking... unless you have some sort of supernatural talent, you'll never get straight lines.

And as far as Future goes... your windshield is already messed up anyway, so you have nothing to lose by trying the Future. It might make the hazing less obvious, or maybe even make it go away completely. The only other alternative would be to polish the hazing out of the piece using either a polishing kit or automotive plastic polish of some kind. It all depends on how much the lacquer thinner attacked the plastic and how severe the hazing it. If it's really bad, you'll probably have to begin by trying to sand the glass smooth using very fine grit sandpaper, then going with the polishing.

By far the easiest way to fix all of your problems is to start over with a new windshield. Trying to make the existing one look presentable is only going to frustrate you to no end.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I've used the method in this link several times and it works very well. In fact, I now do this with ALL of my kit glass because it seems to be more in scale. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58564&hl=windshield

I should add that the poster in the link uses epoxy putty to make the buck, which absolutely will work, but my wife makes polymer clay beads and jewelry and I use her scrap clay to make mine with good results too.

Edited by Pro Wrench

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Posted · Report post

Curt that method is SLICK! Thanks for sharing the link. I never would have known that was possible

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Posted · Report post

Thanks all for the info.

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