ScaleDale Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 I rounded out the nose of my Pro Stock Mustang by tacking a strip of styrene to each side of the front end and letting the center bow out on it's own. It looks good but I need to fill the gap without applying any force that would distort the curve. White glue or wood glue would do the trick but has a longer drying time than my patience allows for. What do you suggest? It's securred with epoxy on the ends and the molding behind it is Milliput epoxy putty. All I need to do is fill the space so it won't crack paint, ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenrat Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 How about decorators filler (spackle I think you call it over there)? The stuff you fill cracks in walls with. You can mix the powdered stuff to a pourable consistency by using more water than recommended and it will still set. Then, skim over it with whatever putty/filler you normally use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 That might do. There's a paste like stuff called wood putty that would fill the space OK and dry firm. I have a blob of wood glue sitting in my dehydrator right now to see how quick it will set.I have some on-line photo friends down in Australia. You folks are in Fall right now, right?Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vypurr59 Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Be careful of what type of wood putty you use. Some are lacquer based. Some are alchohol based. I would probably mix super glue with some baking soda as a tack and filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 One side would contact an epoxy putty (Milliput) so no problem there, but the styrene strip is 0.01 inch thick, so lacquer would eat it like candy. Thanks for the warning.Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) Many automotive body shop supply manufacturers market "pourable" 2-part glazing putties that would work perfectly for you. This is just one example. Edited June 20, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southpier Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-kwikweld-3/ this stuff is duct tape in a tube! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kucaba Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 My choice would be 30 minute epoxy mixed with micro-balloons. Flowable ,strong, and non-reactive to adjacent plastic. It sands easy too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 I'm trying my little used Testors window cement right now and I have slow(er) cure epoxy as a backup. The Testors goes in nice with that thin applicator tube. If it looks suspicious I can just run it under warm water and go with the epoxy. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) I'm trying my little used Testors window cement right now and I have slow(er) cure epoxy as a backup. The Testors goes in nice with that thin applicator tube. If it looks suspicious I can just run it under warm water and go with the epoxy. Dale Testors window glue is polyvinyl acetate, the same thing as Elmer's glue. It dries by evaporation (which means it shrinks badly in thick sections), doesn't penetrate plastic at all, doesn't make a particularly strong bond (not terribly strong on smooth plastics, but quite strong on porous materials like paper and wood), and I've never seen it used as any kind of filler. It should be interesting to see your results. Edited June 20, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScaleDale Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 (edited) My results are going down the drain, Ace. It dawned on me that it's water soluble and I like to keep the Purple door open in case I mess up a paint job, so I decided to dunk it under running water to soften it up and pick any residue out with a toothpick. Epoxy is going to be the best long term solution. I'll be out all day so the car can sit in the dehydrator and will be nice and clean by night. Then I'll hit it with 15 min epoxy in stages and let it set overnight. I'm kinda trying to do the impossible here, building a ProStock car from a kit Mustang, so it's not like I don't have anything else to do...I'll post my results here and then lock and later delete this thread for housekeeping sake.Dale Edited June 20, 2013 by ScaleDale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenrat Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 That might do. There's a paste like stuff called wood putty that would fill the space OK and dry firm. I have a blob of wood glue sitting in my dehydrator right now to see how quick it will set. I have some on-line photo friends down in Australia. You folks are in Fall right now, right? Dale Winter actually. Winter solstice tomorrow. Went down to just above freezing last night but that's about as low as it gets round here. Currently about 60F. There's snow in the mountains now so the skiers head out of town at the weekend. I work in my shed heated only by a portable gas heater so shiny paint is out for a while. For me it's scratchbuilding season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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