Need Some Masking Advice

[cobra]

How long should I wait to mask for stripes after I put my paint in the dehydrator? Paint is Krylon lacquer. I don't want to pull up my paint or damage the finish with the masking tape. What about the tape? What's the safest masking agent to protect the base color? Thanks everyone!

[ismaelg]

Hello,

As a rule of thumb, if you can smell it it not quite ready yet. Lacquer dries fast but I have no idea about a dehydrator. I have done that in lacquer without a dehydrator within a week but I'm sure it is less than that.

As for the tape itself: I use Tamiya tape for masking over paint. I have heard people using bare metal foil. I've also heard 3M fine automotive tape is also very good for this. Whatever you use, make sure it is properly laid down to prevent bleeding under.

Thanks,

[bobss396]

I'd say that 6 hours should do it, which could also depend on a lot of little factors. I personally would make up a test piece first and process it all the way through to the masking and other color painting.

I have lousy luck with 2-tone jobs, I still feel that I'm better off cutting the car in half, do the two colors and rejoin the halves.

Bob

[ismaelg]

Two more suggestions I forgot to mention: When I did the white stripes on the GS Corvette, I did a light coat of clear on the blue base so if there was any bleed thru, it would polish out easily without affecting the base color. I have also heard (but haven't tried myself) that after you lay down the tape, you can apply a coat of clear so it will seal the tape and prevent bleeding under. Once the stripes are painted you carefully go over the tape edge with a new #11 blade.

One final comment: Overspray gets everywhere. Remember to mask not just the surrounding area but the whole body as well. It will save on cleanup later.

Here are some pics of my Grand Sport C5 with painted stripes.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,

[FloridaBoy]

I used to use blue masking tape on my models for two tone jobs, and still had bleed thru problems here and there. My worst problems were yellow stripes over a black car so what I did was to take a Sharpie pen and go over the yellow bleeds then cleared the job. So far ok.

Now on stripes and rather straight divides, I use Scotch Magic Tape (the frosty stuff people use in an office) and burnish it after the paint has dried. I generally put on one coat of clear, because the smoother the surface is, the better the tape sticks, and no bleed through. then paint, then take the tape off quickly. After it sets, clear the paint with several coats, then sand and polish.

Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman

[mikelo]

All the Krylon I have ever used was enamel. As mentioned earlier, wait until the smell is gone and the paint feels hard. When I used to use Testors paints, I let them sit for a month (or I would get finger prints), but you may have to wait a week. Automotive and Tamyia laquers can be done in a few hours. For masking, I have had good results with is using bare metal. I have some of the ultra chrome that doesnt stick very well (or else I probably never would have tried it). Also, as mentioned, a good tip is to coat first with clear to stop or reduce any color bleed through.

[m408]

I'll pass on a masking tip that I got from one of the forums. It worked great on my first two tone, but may be to difficult for small stripes. I'm not good at "word pictures" but I hope that you get the idea.

Apply the first color. Lets call it blue. Mask the area that will remain blue. Apply another coat of the first color to the masked edge. Any bleed through will be blue and should seal the masked edge. Then apply the second color.

As I said, I tried this on my first two tone and the edges came out super sharp.

[Modelmartin]

I used to use the frosted clear tape all the time but since I tried the Tamiya masking tapes I won't use anything else. They are flexible, seal well and don't pull off paint with excessive tackiness. They cost a little bit more but it is totally worth every penny. They come in many widths too.

I use the clear "sealing" method after I apply the tape. It seems to work quite well.

I use BMF to mask when I spray matte black on window trim. Works great for masking intricate and complex sections.

Edited October 28, 2007 by Modelmartin

[cruz]

After masking I like to use Future floor wax before adding the paint, works similar to the clear, dries quick and it's self leveling!!!!!!!!

[Uncle Mike]

After masking I like to use Future floor wax before adding the paint, works similar to the clear, dries quick and it's self leveling!!!!!!!!

Ever tried 'Parafilm'? The late Bruce Treadwell gave me some of that prior to his death, I used it for a 2-tone job (yes, cleared around the parafilm edges!) and it was great. Someone is marketing this under a different banner, anybody know which?

[bob paeth]

The suggestions on sealing the tape with a clear spray are excellent. One other thing that you might try is this: What ever tape you decide to use, apply it to your forehead first. The natual oil on your skin will reduce the 'tackiness" so that the chance of pulling of the paint is not a problem.

bob

[cruz]

Ever tried 'Parafilm'? The late Bruce Treadwell gave me some of that prior to his death, I used it for a 2-tone job (yes, cleared around the parafilm edges!) and it was great. Someone is marketing this under a different banner, anybody know which?

Yes, I thought I heard Bill Geary saying that he used this stuff, I will be trying it myself even though I get great results with the Tamiya tape it's always good to have another alternative.......

[mr moto]

All the Krylon I have ever used was enamel.

Krylon enamel?? If this is the stuff you're using, it's a lacquer and it sure will cause crazing on some Revell plastic!