Revell '65 Chevy Stepside (historical build)

[Union Modelworks]

It looks like quite a few of you are working on this similar model so I'm hoping you guys can help answer some questions and point me in the right direction. I'm in the beginning phase of research, so here's the scoop.

What makes this build great is the personal connection I have with the prototype. As an impressionable kid around 10 years of age my uncle use to take me out in his '64 Chevy and burn rubber up and down the neighborhood. I can tell you there was nothing like it at the time. The truck was nothing fancy to look at. It had a brown rusty primer coat, and the inside was dirty from the long dirt road it traveled to get home. Looks aside, this thing was a beast and it sounded awesome.

So to pay tribute to my youth, I've started to collect some photos from my uncle in hopes to recreate this great memory. He says this was a '64 stepside shortbed with a 327 engine, but I'm still trying to make sure he didn't get the dates wrong. From what I've read, the '65 had the 327. Either way, I was able to find this Revell model that looks darn close.

I'll continue my research, but maybe you guys can confirm for me whether this photo is a '64 or '65. Also, I've already purchased the kit, but if this is indeed a '64 do I need to look at buying a '64 kit? Personally, the '65 is all I could find.

Finally, what kind of after market parts should I be looking for, and where do I find them? I'm still trying to find a side view photo, but the wheels will definitely need to be changed. I need to add an antenna. The brake lights are different and so is the grill. You can see that it does not say Chevy on it like the model.

I know this is a lot to throw out there, but I sure would like to see if I can recreate this. Hopefully he has a shot of the interior and engine. I'll post more photos as I come across them.

Prototype pic:

Model kit I plan on using:

Edited July 23, 2013 by Union Modelworks

[Ace-Garageguy]

Looks to me like the kit grille will fly with just an Easy-Off strip, and filling the letters, painting white.

Also looks like the box-art model could use some adjusting as to how high the bumper is. The gap between the bottom of the grille and the top of the bumper is much tighter in your 1:1 shot, looks much better, and I'm sure is more correct.

Different mirrors with oval bases and square heads, which were probably aftermarket (?) and the wipers on your 1:1 shot don't overlap like they do on the box-art model. Overlapping wipers would give better coverage in the center of the glass, so maybe the box model is a little newer. Longbox55 would probably know.

You can make a much better looking radio antenna than you can buy, most likely.

[espo]

As Bill pointed out, this kit should give you the basics to work with. One thing you may want to look at is the rear window. The model art shows the large rear window, and your uncle's truck looks to have the more common standard small window. This can be changed very easily. On your uncle's truck the outline of the large opening is like a body molding with a metal inset to cover the gap between the large opening and the small rear window. On the 1:1 truck this is all one piece and a very small rubber molding holding the rear window in place. Please keep showing your progress.

[Tom Geiger]

There are two versions of that kit, marketed as 64s and 65s. One is the stepside and the other has the flat sided bed. Note that mine is the second. Both have the larger rear window. As someone said, that shouldn't be hard to create. It may be as easy as attaching some round molding to the center of the existing clear back window to represent the small rear window, then masking it off so that you can glue the entire piece in place and paint it with the body.

Your other questions are V8 or six, and auto trans or manual. The model came with a V8 / Manual. The correct Chevy Six is in the 1960 Pickup kit. Those mirrors can be sourced from other kits, and an antennia can be made from wire.

The rest depends on how much detail you wish to build. Good photos can be found on trucks for sale on eBay Motors. Here's a decent engine bay photo I used for my build...

Here's my build album, you may find some details here to help you in your own build: http://public.fotki.com/ModelCitizen/model_cars/my_model_cars/my-finished-models/1965_chevy_pick_up/

[Longbox55]

^{Bad thing about the '64-'65'-66 Chevrolet trucks is that they are somewhat difficult to differentiate, especially if the series ID badges are missing, as they are in the picture. Otherwise, they are almost identical in appearance. I can tell you that mirrors are not stock. perhaps Chevelle or E Camino from what I can tell. There was a square mirror option, but they used the same stands as the round mirrors. From what I can see, the taillights almost look like they might be either trailer lights, or perhaps Ford. The wipers should not overlap, they are mispositioned n the box art.}

^{A few notes on engines; The 327 was indeed available in a Chevrolet truck in '65, but only in 2wd 3/4 tons and 1 tons (there were no factory 1 ton 4x4s). 1/2 tons used the 283, as did the base model V8 3/4 and 1 tons. For the 6 cylinder, the one from the AMT '60 is only accurate up to '62, plus some early '63 4x4s used the 261 variant of that engine, The correct 6 would be the one found in the Trumpeter Nova.}

[Union Modelworks]

Thanks, guys, for all your replies. I really appreciate your help in getting things in order.

I got a little more information from my uncle, but unfortunately no more photos could be found. Here is what he said. Maybe you can make some sense of it.

• 1964 Chevy Shortbox Stepside with a 327 - 4 Speed Transmission.
• It had 15 inch steel rims that he replaced with 21 inch Street Eliminator Tires and deep dish white spoke rims.
• Steel bumpers and grill assembly.
• The stock interior had carpet.
• The bench seat was worn out and the springs were shot.
• He bought the truck with no tailgate and replaced it with a tailgate without the Chevy logo
• There were no gauges and the wiring was a mess. He had to replace with newer gauges.
• The bed of the truck was wood, but it was rotten and the steel bed strips were all rusted.
• He added a 411 positraction rear end (not sure what that is or if it's important to visuals of this kit.)

Sorry if that sounds all over the place. I'm assuming I should be able to find the tires and rims as aftermarket? And the tailgate can probably be filed down I assume? The inside will have to be "best guess" as far as I'm concerned without an actual photo.

Thanks, Bill. Sanding and filling sounds like the way to go on that grill. And thanks for pointing out that gap as I totally missed that detail.

Looks like I'll need to make some small modifications to the wipers. Is that a common mod to do?

Thanks, David. I missed that back window detail and it looks like a very important characteristic. Correct me if I'm wrong, but are you saying to create a styrene mask of sort with the shape of the window as shown, and place that over the model's bigger window? Or should I create a new piece entirely and cut the window out of the kit's part? Thanks for clarification.

Thanks, Tom. That photo is great to see up close and your link will definitely help. And thanks for your input on the back window as well. I'm assuming a mask of styrene will work, or possibly cutting out the window and placing it in a reshaped "metal" border?

Thanks, Bill "Longbox55." I guess we can go with the idea of a '64 or '65 as long as it has the correct engine. It sounds like that Trumpeter Nova would fit the requirements? Will it fit correctly in this kit?

I'll take a look at a Chevelle or El Camino for the mirrors. Any particular year to help narrow down the search? And good observation on the brake lights. If I remember correctly they did look a little out of place. I remember my uncle hauling a lot of stuff around so maybe he added the trailer lights for added effect. Are there any kits that have trailer lights, or would these be a scratch build?

Edited July 26, 2013 by Union Modelworks

[Longbox55]

I'm thinking '66 on the mirrors, I have seen pictures in my guides showing a virtually identical mirror on the El Camino for that year.

I personally haven't tried swapping in the Trumpeter 6, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

[PappyD340]

I like your plan, I had a 65 stepside a few years ago pretty much a rusto-sleeper, bought it off a guy I worked with once the truck was from coal country in West Virginia so she had quite a bit of rust. There were even spots you could see through the floor pan, but it had a sweet 283 in it that was should I say finessed a bit, I have always been fond of that body stlye anyway keep it going!!

[crazyrichard]

nice !

[Union Modelworks]

I found out some additional information. It looks like he put these rims on. Any idea where I might find some similar in 1:25 hopefully with matching tires? They are 70 Series White 8 Spoke Wheels.

I also got confirmation that the mirrors were from a Chevelle. However, I can't seem to find a kit or aftermarket parts. He also put mud deflectors on the back. Any idea where I might find those? He also mentioned that on the transmission, he changed the shifter from the column to the floor. Would this be possible to change with this kit?

Also found out that paint was (red oxide, primer). Any thoughts on duplicating that color?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, and I appreciate your guys help, I just feel totally lost since I know very little about car models. Thanks again.

Edited July 28, 2013 by Union Modelworks

[tooltas]

revel cj7 or 80's bronco kit

[Tom Geiger]

I found out some additional information. It looks like he put these rims on. Any idea where I might find some similar in 1:25 hopefully with matching tires? They are 70 Series White 8 Spoke Wheels.

I also got confirmation that the mirrors were from a Chevelle. However, I can't seem to find a kit or aftermarket parts. He also put mud deflectors on the back. Any idea where I might find those? He also mentioned that on the transmission, he changed the shifter from the column to the floor. Would this be possible to change with this kit?

Also found out that paint was (red oxide, primer). Any thoughts on duplicating that color?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, and I appreciate your guys help, I just feel totally lost since I know very little about car models. Thanks again.

A few answers (I also responded to your PM)... Mirrors- Many kit mirrors will look 'close enough'. Look through your kit stash for a suitable pair.

Mud deflectors- Just cut the shape from either very thin plastic sheet, light card stock etc. Once you paint them flat black, they'll be convincing. The good part about scratch building things like this is that you can try it over and over until you get it right. It's not like you are going to ruin your one good kit part.

Shifter - See below photo. I did the same thing with my truck. I left my column shifter on the column but had it sag down as if disconnected because a buddy o mine had one like that. Just cut yours short to leave a nub there to be the removed shifter. Then you just need to find a suitable shifter to glue to the transmission hump. That should be easy.

Red oxide is a fairly common car primer. I like Duplicolor brand automotive paints, you can buy red oxide primer at any auto supply store.

Oh, one important detail when looking for the custom wheels. Your Chevy pickup had 6 lug wheels, and many kits have 5 lug wheels.

Edited July 29, 2013 by Tom Geiger

[Union Modelworks]

Hey, Tom, thanks for the info. And yes, I saw your PM. Thank you for taking the time to respond. I feel like I'm getting closer to finding out everything I need. I'll start looking for mirrors and go with something "close."

I was told by another modeler that, "As far as the engine goes, the 283 and the 327 are visually identical so the one in the kit would be correct." That's his statement. If that's the case than I see no reason not to use the same engine for the sake of not driving myself crazy.

The other items can be scratch built which shouldn't be a problem. So I guess it comes down to finding the tire and wheels. You mentioned that this Chevy had a 6 lug wheel, but all I've seen are 5 lug. I'm not sure what to do in this case. I guess we could be splitting hairs, but I would do it if I could find the right looking wheel.

I've looked at the Revell race car trailer and that seems to have similar wheels, but the kit is hard to come by. Guess I'll keep on looking.

By the way, where did you get that steering wheel in the photo? That would be perfect for my kit. And I assume you made the seat belts?

Thanks, Todd, I'll check out those kits.

Edited July 29, 2013 by Union Modelworks

[Tom Geiger]

Ah, close but no cigar! Here's the wheels that came with the AMT / Model King release of the '79 Ford pickup. Right number of slots, right shape of slots, wrong shape of wheel! I'll keep looking.

[Longbox55]

Several of the 4x4 MPC '78-'82 Chevrolet Stepside kits have a similar wheel with the correct bolt pattern.

[Union Modelworks]

Several of the 4x4 MPC '78-'82 Chevrolet Stepside kits have a similar wheel with the correct bolt pattern.

Thanks, Bill. I will look at those kits. Can you verify this statement told to me. "The 283 and the 327 are visually identical so the one in the kit would be correct." It would save me some headache if they looked close enough.

[Union Modelworks]

As an alternative to the wheels, I just found out that before the white wheels he had deep dish chrome. ( I guess as shown in the original photo above ). I think these might be easier to find, and I might be able to use the stock one's that it came with; however, the rear tires were wider than the front. Assuming I find some deep dish, is it possible to have two different sized tires? I'm assuming there are kits with different size?

Sorry guys for throwing out so much information. The more research I do, the more questions come up, and the more I eventually find out. Thanks for following along.

Edited July 30, 2013 by Union Modelworks

[Longbox55]

For the most part, pretty much all Small Block Chevy engines look the same externally. There two exceptions to that, where there are noticeable external block differences, the '55 265 (no oil filter) and the 400 Turbo Fire (3 core plugs per side instead of 2). I believe a few years of the 327 did have a different set of rocker covers, not 100% sure if that applies to trucks. There won't be any problem with calling the engine in the kit a 327.

[Wonderbread Kustomz]

Not sure if you found the wheels, but i know the Ford Van kit from AMT has those wheels... The Phantom Van... Not sure on lug configuration on that...

[Union Modelworks]

Thanks, James. I am still looking around for wheels. At the moment I'm in the process of trying to find detail parts for the engine so that should keep me busy until then.

[James2]

That's a great kit to work with. Research and part sourcing is what makes the hobby more interesting. Good luck with your project.

[Union Modelworks]

@James Ries: Yeah the kit seems pretty good from what I can tell. The engine has been a little tricky since the fit is a little off for my "standards." I agree with your statement. Research is what makes this so great. I'm learning a lot about this truck and autos in general.

I have a question for everyone. I've been looking over a lot of engine compartment photos via Google image, and eBay Motors. While the top-down visual is great, for someone like me who knows very little about wiring and engines, it can be tough to know where wires go to. Does anyone know where I could find a 64 or 65 engine compartment diagram or illustration showing the bottom half as well?

I basically need to know where along the compartment the battery cable connects. I know the ground (-) hooks to the engine or the frame somewhere, but not sure of exact location. From what I understand the positive (+) connects to the starter, which in this case looks like is mounted to the side of the oil pan. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm also wondering how the alternator gets powered, and wonder if the starter wire continues along the compartment to eventually connect to the alternator? As you can see, I'm totally guessing.

I'd also like to remove the over-scaled fan belt off the pulleys and connect the alternator appropriately. Luckily I've found some decent reference photos for that. The only place I've seen aftermarket alternators is Model Car Garage. Please let me know if you guys have another source.

The stock carburetor will be replaced with a ProTech Holley. My uncle mentioned he had a Rochester carb, but I can't seem to find those in aftermarket. Again, let me know if you've seen the Rochester's.

I know there are some other small wiring parts and possibly the fuel line, but it all depends on finding a good wiring illustration to reference. I had planned on using a MAD distributor, but I'm still trying to find out what size wires he uses for the spark plug wire. I'd like to stay as close to scale as possible.

Here are some different size measurements I've come up with based on research here on the forum, and 1:1 motor part descriptions.

Spark Plug Wire: 8mm (generally) | 1:25 = .0125" = 28awg wire.

Heater Hose: 5/8" | 1:25 = .025" = 22awg wire.

Heater Hose: 3/4" | 1:25 = .03" = 20awg wire.

Radiator Hose: 1 3/4" | 1:25 = .07" 13awg wire.

Battery Cable: 1/4" | 1:25 = .01" = 30awg wire.

I know Detail Master carries quite a few of these, but they are not always the "correct" scale. I've also heard the discussion on the boards about using a slightly bigger wire because of "scale effect." An issue where the correct size actually looks too small. Personally, I'd like to see both sizes for myself in person before I choose a size of wire. I'd like to be prototypical if possible, but understand it could look odd at times. Again, just need to see it for myself.

So there you have it. Lots of research. Any thoughts or feedback is very welcomed.

[James2]

​I like to use items found more so than store bought detail pieces, although I do use detail master wires. I source a lot of things at the show/swap meets.

Hobby Lobby is another great place to find small detailing pieces. I also like to go with what looks best on a model not always true true scale.

Try narrowing your search too! Small block Chevy pictures in the search engine will give better detail. And one thing I do, if a wire runs some where you can't see why bother running all the way. Just do what looks good.

Any way, I look forward to seeing the progress on your truck.

[Union Modelworks]

Hey James,

I totally agree about not running a wire if you can't see it. It's good to keep it simple in that case. I guess I'm mainly looking for the wire locations of what you can see from the top, but I know have to end somewhere. And I figured a couple of those wires will cross down into the engine into areas I currently can't see. I'll try your search term to see what else I can come up with.

Looking forward to feedback from others as well.

[Longbox55]

There really isn't much wiring that goes to the bottom of the engine compartment, with the exception of the battery cable that goes to the starter solenoid. The only wiring the would go to the bottom of the truck would be the harness going to the tail lights, fuel gauge sending unit, and the back up lights if equipped (those were optional). The rest of the harness is pretty much on top.