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1965 Ford Galaxie Street Machine

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Been watching this thread since day 1, and this is beautiful attention to detail!

Just a thought on your hinges; if you thin the trailing edges of the plastic, it will do alot to lighten them visually. Just file a light taper from front to back, removing nothing at the front, and maybe 2/3 of the thickness at the rear edge. Big change in appearance, and shouldn't affect their strength.

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This is killer work,, LOVE the trunk hinges, best I have ever seen!!

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Been watching this thread since day 1, and this is beautiful attention to detail!

Just a thought on your hinges; if you thin the trailing edges of the plastic, it will do alot to lighten them visually. Just file a light taper from front to back, removing nothing at the front, and maybe 2/3 of the thickness at the rear edge. Big change in appearance, and shouldn't affect their strength.

Nice idea Rusty. I think I'll give this a try. I think I may have to 'shrink' the depth of the hinges a little too as they do look oversize once in place.

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Nice work on the hinges Sonny! What are you going to do about the package on the interior?

Hi Roger, This is a good question. If you mean the rear package shelf then - yes - this is going to need some modification. The kit part is flat and also acts as the anchor for the kit trunk hinges. It will not fit with my new trunk hinges in place. The 1:1 package shelf has a kind of kick-up at the back edge to meet the lower edge of the rear window. I guess I'll have to scratch a new shelf!

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Great job Sonny, you've taken a bad kit of a neat American full size car and have put some very creative and talented skills to work. Carry on I'll be watching this one.

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Amazing work on the hinges! Thanks for sharing your process, I love all the little tricks I learn on this site

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Wow awesome, credits for the work you spend on the hinges they look so realistic

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WOW I love what your doing here.all the detail...its amazing to watch.I'm going to be building this kit as well.my father had one when I was young.you have tought me and gave me ideas on building my projects.....smokin work!!! Thank you and keep up the great build you have going,Chris

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Progress on project Galaxie has been embarrassingly slow. You know how it is; work, family, life... they all get in the way of our hobby ;).

Anyway, with excuses out of the way, I thought it was about time I shared some progress with you all...

I will be building the interior with no rear seats so I've had to fabricate the floor structure - where the seat would have been. The first thing is to add is the cross rib.
lxjt.jpg

The rear fire wall is not really the right shape. The kit part is completely flat and sits about 2 scale inches too far forward. Fine, if it were covered with the seat. In the pic below you can see that I have pencilled where two curved wheel arch bulges should be.
xher.jpg

I have decided to remove the rear parcel shelf. It will not be used in the final build.
le4i.jpg

hb6x.jpg

zhfb.jpg

I cut away the rear fire wall and fabricated a new one a couple of millimetres further back. More good use of Milliput...
7rj7.jpg

...and here it is looking roughly how it should!
8zuk.jpg

The area ahead of the rib will have the normal carpet. I've sanded away the 'texture' so I was thinking of using some flock. Now, I've never used the stuff before and I see there are many different brands - most coloured. Any advise on a good brand of flock material from you guys would be appreciated. It needs to be really fine - so that it looks in scale.

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I use embossing powder it comes in many colors but i get the white and paint it whatever color i need. It gives it a great look

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Glad to see this one up and going again,I agree on the embossing powder. Put on in white then paint it in any color you want. Great attention to detail by the way.

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What did you use to get in all the nooks and tight spots to sand the texture away from the floorboards? I need to do this on a car I'm working on.

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I also have a '65 Galaxie 500 on the work bench. I had been collecting parts for this build for 4-5 years. When AMT brought out the GoodYear polyglass tires (F-15 and L-15) those were the last parts I needed to build a replica of a real R code '65 Galaxie I had back in 1968 (my Green Monster). It was a side oiler 427 with 2-fours and a four speed. I used the engine out of the AMT 427 Comet. I put a hood scoop from a '68 Mustang on my real Galaxie and the Trumpter Falcon kits have a scoop similar to that which I used on the model. I also had Cragar mags on my Galaxie and I found some at the Toledo NNL a few years ago from an unknown kit. The real car was Ivy Green Metallic and I used Testor's British Racing Green Metallic. I just finished foiling the model and I used hood and trunk lettering from the Model Car Garage detail PE set for the 60 Ford. I hope to have this finished for the upcoming NNLEast.

I street raced the real car and did not lose to too many challengers. I made more money street racing than at my day job at a chemical company. Those were interesteing days!!!

post-7848-0-87942100-1391200023_thumb.jp

post-7848-0-65544700-1391200014_thumb.jp

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As a kid I used to go thru the Ford brochures cover to cover and I remember seeing a listing for those clear headlight covers for the 65 Galaxie. I believe they were a dealer installed option and extremely rare. In fact this may be the first time I've ever seen a photo of them. In those days each state had rules about covering headlights and those covers may not have been legal in all 50 states. The '66 7-Litre didn't have them as standard and I don't know if they were offered. Great build!

Ken

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I do love the 65 Ford Galaxie

and you are doing a unbelievablely Fantastic Realistic build..

Awesome work..

I will now go and hide mine from the world..

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What did you use to get in all the nooks and tight spots to sand the texture away from the floorboards? I need to do this on a car I'm working on.


That's a good question Jesse. I used a sanding stick as far as possible. To get right into the nooks I used a combination of two methods...

1) Cut a pies of fresh 320 grade wet & dry paper with scissors for sharp edge and sand as far as possible into the edge. This is difficult as it is impossible to apply pressure over the last 1-2mm (not with the size of my banana fingers), so you have to rely on the rigidity of the we & dry paper.

2) I use a No 17 Xacto blade (flat square head - like a chisel). This is held perpendicular to the textured surface and gently scraped side to side. This is a really good way of getting right in to corners and giver a real sharp edge. I used this method to carve the detail into the underside of the hood too.

Hope this works for your project Jesse.

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Thanks for sharing those pictures of your Green Monster with us Darryl. What a great story to go with it. Looks like yours is nearly finished - its gonna look really good. I've often thought that I should build some models of my old 1:1 cars, but I don't have anything quite as interesting as yours in my past.

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