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55 Jukebox Ford


racer3270

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Realized a major mistake the other day when trying to run my ignition wires through looms on the engine... I used battery wire instead of ignition wire :mellow: Yes i know how dumb that seems but it happened. So i picked up a new distributor kit from ProTech and started over, this time with the correct wire. I love how it came out.

I'm almost done with everything under the hood!

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Edited by racer3270
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Nice James! You realize you've given all your carbureutor advice to another rookie, namely me? I picked up my AN fittings from Rob at RB Motion and they are slick. I added a purchase of the matching fuel lines from Ted's. I have no doubt I'll need a few more as I progress into my build to match the diagrams. No contests or anything, I just love to detail for fun. I had a t-brake on my '93 Mustang; I can't remember for the life of me what it looked like! For my current Nova, I just did the coiled wire thing and attached one end to the B&M shifter casing. The other end kinda tucks around one of the steering wheel spokes. Have you gone to anyplace like Hobby Lobby or JoAnns? Look in their minature "doll house" section. Never can tell what you might turn up; maybe a TV remote you could cut in half. Have you thought about cutting a piece of your parts tree off and painting it silver? If the diameter is small enough to make it look right 1:1, you could use a dremel to drill into one end and insert another smaller piece of round plastic in. Paint that piece red and you're done!

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Here is a picture of the setup on our race car, now this is actually a line lock not a trans brake ,but the button's look the same. There is a red button for the front wheel's to be locked for burnout, flip the toggle, stage and use the black button on the right to lock all four wheel's. I figured a small piece of styrene rod placed on the hole of the steering wheel spoke could be the button, for the back you could use a small piece of styrene strip to represent the back of the switch. The wire is kind of the main part as Mitch said, at least it is the most noticable, but I say you go all out and make the washer under the button and all.

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Not that dumb at all James, simple enough fix and look's killer. My neck is starting to hurt though....where is that rotate picture function?...haha.

I really am sorry for the sideways pictures. They bother me too! I am restricted to taking pictures on my Iphone and I have no idea how to get them to flip. I tried a photo editing program and they show right side up in the program but when i go to upload them they are sideways.

So my apologies to everyone about the pictures. Ill try to have it fixed for the next update.

Thank you to everyone for your tips, tricks, and advice!

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James don't sweat the pictures dude, I am just busting your chops. Judging by your building I am sure your aware of how all this works, I was having issues with my digital camera and photobucket at one time. Thanks Scott I figured the pictures may help out somone if not James, I know the JukeBox setup inside is probably quite different than our bracket car. I am going to be picking up a JukeBox as soon as I see one on the shelf at the LHS, I would love to have the Christine Pro Mod, I just can't pay 40$+ on Ebay for one. Christine is the first kit I remember building with my Dad, he put all the decal's on the red plastic body for me....I still have it in pieces to this day. Keep at it James, it is looking great.

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BIG Update for you guys. Been busy all weekend scrambling to make progress on this one. I actually have some extra time since my real race car blew up at the track last week :angry:.

Started out with the back end and lining up those fat goodyear slicks!

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I used SLIXX decals for the Goodyear letters on the tires. The vinyl on the tires was already raised so the decals don't look as good as they could.

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Another problem i ran into was the supports around the engine. They don't even come close to lining up! I had a terrible time getting them in at all. I added some tubing and painted over it in black. Not the cleanest solution, but it worked. post-9717-0-93423600-1381118873_thumb.jppost-9717-0-20492400-1381118890_thumb.jp

I attached the front springs and glued the wheels on the same way i did the rear wheels.

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This is how she sits now. Got some interior work done today with a lot more on the way! Thanks for following. I look forward to everybody's comments.

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if that's a ford big block why is dis in back like on gm's jukebox ford should have a 624 ford semi hemi boss motor

The distributor is in the back because Revell either doesn't know about engines or thinks we won't notice the difference between BBF and BBC or Mopar distributor placement. The engine included in that kit isn't a Ford.

Dale

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BIG Update for you guys. Been busy all weekend scrambling to make progress on this one. I actually have some extra time since my real race car blew up at the track last week :angry:.

Started out with the back end and lining up those fat goodyear slicks!

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I used SLIXX decals for the Goodyear letters on the tires. The vinyl on the tires was already raised so the decals don't look as good as they could.

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Another problem i ran into was the supports around the engine. They don't even come close to lining up! I had a terrible time getting them in at all. I added some tubing and painted over it in black. Not the cleanest solution, but it worked. attachicon.gifIMG_2101 (2).JPGattachicon.gifIMG_2103.JPG

I attached the front springs and glued the wheels on the same way i did the rear wheels.

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This is how she sits now. Got some interior work done today with a lot more on the way! Thanks for following. I look forward to everybody's comments.

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James: wow... I'm was really geeking on your build (I still am, really nice) but those front support rails/upper shock mounting frame rails are bumming me out. I can't believe this is what I have awaiting me this winter when I start my build. Luckily, my hobby shop has lots of Evergreen styrene rod, hollow tubing and just about any size and shape of plastic for model building. I'll take the rails with me to the store and pick up a bag of a couple extra hollow tubes for fabricating in case of problems. In spite of the body style, lot's of top sportsman cars from this era used BBC motors (except maybe Ronnie Sox). I'm just starting up an 86 vintage Glidden/Motorcraft pro stock and it's got a 429 engine that's a beauty with the distributor on the front. My Shoebox was bought this year so I don't seen how it could be on a list for reissue already?!

Anyway I like your detailing and I'm looking forward to my build.

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James: wow... I'm was really geeking on your build (I still am, really nice) but those front support rails/upper shock mounting frame rails are bumming me out. I can't believe this is what I have awaiting me this winter when I start my build.

Anyway I like your detailing and I'm looking forward to my build.

Yeah i was pretty disappointed with it too. I couldn't think of a very clean way to fix it. Maybe the reissued version doesn't have this problem... I'm working with the original and i've noticed a few warped parts along the way.

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I wish I could determine which year mine is but my wife has it stashed away for a Christmas gift. I'll try to sneak a peak at the production year, etc and compare it with yours! Money is tight for us and a model kit with recommended paints is a big treat. My stocking stuffers are like wire, x-acto blades, braided line and decal sheets!

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The chasiss is looking good James, never had a problem with the front tube work on either of mine. The reason why the distributor goes in the back is because the chasiss, interior tin & engine are all generic, the only things different from one car to the next, is the body, decals, wheels and the heads/valve covers. The Christine car has a extension piece that needs to be glued to the back of the tin work to make it fit the longer Fury body, the engine to the Fury is supposed to be a Mopar B-1, that also should have the distributor mounted up front. It's cheaper to keep reusing molds then to make a new mold for every car.

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How true. I checked my kit (snuck into the closet LOL) and it clearly states 2013 on the manufacturer/rights info. I'm hoping it's o.k. I looked at the picks and it shows only a burgundy red as the base color, which is why I got Model Masters in a can. No decals back there for a black wing either. I've seen people paint the entire car black with nice results. Gotta remember, the car on the box has been "professionally built" to suit their advertising needs.

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Hi all,

Made a few more big steps to finishing this one. Painted the body and other parts a light red. Taped off the underside of the hood and painted it semi gloss black. As you can see the interior is starting to come together as well. I installed the transbrake button and wired it up under the dash. Ill keep it brief and let the pictures explain themselves. Thanks for hanging with me!

Comments/Criticism are appreciated.

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Nice going James! Your work is progressing well. Yes, the transbrake came out super. A dremel, a piece of donor styrene and some twisted wires do the trick! If my tach is dash mounted, I do the same with the wire, unless it has a shift lite, then I look for lifesize pics or try to remember how I wired mine on my Mustang! It's all relative in the eye of the beholder.

Right now I'm working on an '86 Glidden p/s and I spent time detailing the MSD 6AL, wiring it, getting the wires through the firewall, wiring the tach & line-loc and I'm finding out the front of the dash with the gauges covers up most of my work, decals, etc.! I'll make it up though as this is the 1st build (and only my 2nd real adult build) that will use real stainless line for fuel and carb fittings.

Keep up the good work. And when you want to get some motivation, look at Tyrone's 1990 LX Mustang Coupe!

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  • 4 weeks later...

I want to apologize for the lack of updates the past month or two. My computer died and i couldn't get the pictures uploaded. Big update on this one- and by "big update" i mean IT'S DONE! I used Bare-Metal Foil to complete the lower half of the grille. There was a slight fitment issue with the dash connecting to the window which connects to the hood. Also, the cage came with some headaches. Other than that everything went together pretty well. I used slixx decals for the tires. It is wired using pro tech wires and looms as well as a little bit of braided line. The A/N fittings are homemade from bead fittings. My favorite part of this car is the engine which i spent a lot of time detailing. This is the most detailed i have ever gotten on a build and i really enjoyed it. There is a lot left that i can get into when it comes to detailing. What i have here is just scratching the surface and trying some new things.

I am really proud of this one. I usually nit pick my own work and i am typically never happy but i really enjoyed this build. It may not be completely clean or accurate but i like it. So here are the pics. Questions, comments, and criticism are always welcome. Thank you all for following along and helping me through this one. Can't wait for the next one!

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Edited by racer3270
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