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Ghia/Porsche


ScrappyJ

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Thanks for keeping me motivated guys! I was attempting to make it to ATL with it, but I haven't even gotten to dressing-up the motor or getting to the interior, so I SERIOUSLY doubt ill make it.

I did try taking some better pictures than what my phone is capable of, but I'm still trying to dial-in my macro 60mm.

Bill I still don't have anything on your Cuda. Sherm, Bill and Bob your machining prowess keeps me motivated (SOMMCA ;)).

Jay, Bruh, ALWAYS appreciate your support!!!

Edited by ScrappyJ
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  • 3 weeks later...

I got started in the floor pan. In the pic below, some of the part that the dash is currently glued to is from the kit, but most of it is from styrene. I traced the outline of the pan from the chassis and cut it out (as always, sorry for the crappy pics):

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Here you can better see two brass pins that sets the front part of the pan into the upper, front part of the chassis

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Not that you would see it, but I took a second piece of styrene, traced out the lattice pattern in the chassis, cut it out and layered it on the chassis (again you really aren't going to see it, but I thought it was a cool touch: I assume it would also help with undercarriage turbulence and not that you guys wouldn't have figured it out, but the "P" is passenger side and well the "D" is obvious)

35401828675439-vi.jpg

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sorry i really missed your thread , dont know why .. no i didnt have those seats myself its a dutch builder on a forum but the pic was from a acient post and it was a porsche kit he was buikding ..

those porsche seats ussually are in the revell porsche kits if i'm correct .. if your lucky you can score either a old build model or a incomplete kit ?? for cheap ... (incomplete kit with the seats that is hahahaha)

thats said > dan what a awsome progress you made , just stunning stuff ~~~~~~~~~~~~

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I was also able to work on the engine plate. The plate was first made out of styrene and then I used the styrene copy to trace out and make the billet piece:

06401908446405-vi.jpg

Here you can see the plate with the stepped/flanged piece from the transaxle sitting inside of the plate (tight tolerance, but it fits). The two holes are where I'm hoping to be able to countersink so that I can tap the upper back chassis and bolt the plate on.

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In this pic, you can see the sharpie marks for where to cut that I traced out of the styrene. To get the bolt holes on the transaxle flange, I just plunged an endmill, then I drilled a hole in the center of the circle part of the plate and then stuck a bolt through it, tightened it and put it in the rotary table to complete the rest of the milling (oh...I also took an endmill about the size of the starter part on the flange and plunge cut it). It's not CNC, but I think it turned out okay:

33401636793647-vi.jpg

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I got a little work done this weekend. I was finally able to counter-sink the hole for the engine plate and was able to figure out how to drill the holes for the upper bracing for the A-arms (I bought the 90 degree attachment for the Dermel and got it done that way). I also had to drill and tap three holes for the brace connecting the engine plate and the role cage.

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Here is the plate attached to the chassis:

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Here is the back portion of the roll cage that attaches to the engine plate:

59402933899077-vi.jpg

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I recently saw a drop top ghia with a double hoop roll bar set up and the lines flowed much better. You may want to give that a try. As an owner of many ghias I will watch this with interest

Thanks, Dwayne! I did consider it and I think you're probably right on the double loop. Only for my taste, I kept it straight as I'm not a huge fan of the double loop. Jay Ruiz (a/k/a BKIN10SECS) also told me I should do it that way. I do truly appreciate the input!!!

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