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Abell82

Mercury Capri SVT (A Mustang of a different sort)

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No not a coupe. A Hatchback. Yes it is resin. It may need a new nose, but then again I just may leave it alone, and just build it. The custom cowl hood, is also resin.

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Edited by Abell82

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Where did you get this body? Ive seen a couple that are being sold on ebay and the surface looks to have a very course finish and I dont think I wanna sand my brains out just to have a smooth body.

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This is from Ebay. I have 3-4 of these, they do not have a course finish.

However they are too long below the doors, (2mm) AND the roofs have gotten very thin.

So it is, as always... buyer beware.

edit: It may be the coupes you are thinking of, as they do have a rougher finish.

Edited by Abell82

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Ah ok, glad to hear some feedback on these cause I didnt really wanna spend the asking price and totally disappointed and possibly not build it.

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Just went to ebay and checked the auction, to see what you were referring to . Then I went and checked the bodies, again. 3 are fine, but one is glossy, and has a rough surface.

It is not as horrible as the body I got from teddyb2336 but it is MUCH different then the other 3. Unfortunately I am not sure which order they were received in, but I would bet the rough one was the last one received.

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The ones im referring to is from rdsxfan2, theres one with a cowl hood, saleen wing and drag lite wheels, then theres an outlaw version. Thanks for all the help, still will prob pass, its 1/24 scale so you have to use the 93 cobra kit as a donor and im not a huge fan of that kit detail wise. He also does a 1/24 scale coupe as well.

Edited by Devilsnake98

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Since I have one body with a rough finish, I decided to use that one first.

Unfortunately, the first custom hood would not work with the other body.

So I 'll be using a different hood as well. Here is the body and hood I will be using.

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The ones im referring to is from rdsxfan2, theres one with a cowl hood, saleen wing and drag lite wheels, then theres an outlaw version. Thanks for all the help, still will prob pass, its 1/24 scale so you have to use the 93 cobra kit as a donor and im not a huge fan of that kit detail wise. He also does a 1/24 scale coupe as well.

to each there own. It REALLY isn't worth the money for the hatchback body, as it does not include an interior. If it did, then it MIGHT be. As nearly any kit could be used as the donor. If you HAVE to use a Cobra kit as a donor, your really better off just making the kit body into an LX. This is my opinion.

HOWEVER... Having spent the money already... WHO says you have to limit your self to just one donor kit. Anyone notice that the headlights in the new Revell LX kit are the same size as both the AMT AND Monogram offerings?

They ARE!!

Since I really didn't like the stock resin LX bumper, I decided to go with a different one...modified of coarse...

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Looks better already doesn't it? If just the headlights look this good, what else could we use?

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The resin cowl hood needs a bit more work to fit properly...

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(The front bumper is sagging too!)

Edited by Abell82

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What about the rear view you ask ?

Funny you should bring that up...

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The taillights may be just a little too short length wise, or maybe not?

An improvement either way.

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How in the world did you do those headlights...and taillights? IMO, the taillight width looks spot on because of the lenses making up the difference.

Edited by Skydime

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Maybe it's the lighting but, they look fully detailed like you worked hours on them!

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Thanks the fronts do look good, unfortunately, The rears no longer look as nice.

I went to soak the body in bleche white to get rid of the mold release and forgot the taillights were still in it. Needless to say the taillights are not chrome plated any longer. (SIGH!)

I was going to literally throw this together using previously built and painted parts, but my OCD wont let me.

Anyhow, the chassis I will be using was hacked up from a previous owner. So to correct it, I stripped the flat black paint off, and then back -halved it, right above the rear wheels. I got a little impatient while I was doing this, and ended up breaking the chassis, through the spring mounts. (This was due to the Missus telling me I needed to hurry. I should have known better ! ) I think I did a decent job of repairing it though. I used a piece of chassis that had been previously cut up for some other reason, and then given to me by someone else, to make the repair. But I digress....

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I then glued the front bumper in place, and added some rearview mirrors ...

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More later...

Edited by Abell82

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Got a little time to work on the project, and I made a few slight changes to it.

See if you can spot the changes...

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Custom made. Also changed the rear bumper, and lowered the suspension.

Edited by Abell82

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I used the coupe as a sort of test mule, to see if I could do it on this body. I only did the rears not the fronts.

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Edited by Abell82

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Did you just cut where the top of the flare is, push it out and fill the gap with a shaped strip of styrene? Then cut the mustang opening flare off and filled it and reshaped it to make it flat?

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Did you just cut where the top of the flare is, push it out and fill the gap with a shaped strip of styrene? Then cut the mustang opening flare off and filled it and reshaped it to make it flat?

Could you show me how you did that?

Every Modeler does it a little differently, from what I have found.

I am sorry, but I don't have a tutorial prepared. So I can't show you.

BUT, Darin Bastedo has a great tutorial in the how to section Titled : How to : Widen fenders the easy way.

And He can show you.

Personally I prefer to fill mine with styrene rather than CA glue, but to each there own.

(see the Tutorial here: )

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55926&hl=fenders

As for the Mustang flare: I don't remove the Mustang fender flare. Rather the reverse of the fender. Scribing around the flare, and then folding it in, instead of out. Once it is where I want it and filled, I remove the excess, from the inside of the fender by grinding it out with a Dremel tool. I have found this less tedious then trying to get the curve of the wheel well corrected, and then mating it to the fender that I had cut up. I have also found it to be slightly more accurate, or at least aesthetically pleasing. I then apply a "lip" of styrene stick, or rod. Does that help?

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Changed the title to better reflect the direction this build is headed. Got the body primed a little more today, still a lot of work left ahead...

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