me, paint and problems..

9 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

hey all, couple questions. i have searched, and read a lot, but wanted to toss out my personal experience with my issue/s and get some direct feedback, so here we go..

so, doing a revell KW W900 big rig cab and hood, molded in white. i cleaned the parts in soap and water, wet sanded with 600 grit, dried and primed. put in dehydrator for 8 hours, then wet sanded with 6k, dried, primed again, and dehydrator for 8 hours. wet sanded again with 6k, looked fabulous to this point. [keep in mind, model was left to settle to ambient temp for 10-12 hours after each dehydrator run, i.e., turn off unit in am, go to work, then work on it when back home].

tonight, i put color to it,[warmed the body and the paint] and promptly messed it up [mostly due to impatience], i know i put too much paint to it at once [but it looked sooo pretty], got some sags and pooling of paint, i know where i went wrong there, but here are a few 64,000 dollar questions.....,

i'm using Tamiya white primer and testors metallic blue rattle can paint, one of my questions is this, on some parts of the cab, mostly body lines, the body lines are still white, and where the cab curves around to meet the sleeper, there is a pronounced white showing thru.

is this a result of just pouring the paint on? or should i have scribed the lines and blackwashed? [have read the tutorial, bought the tool, but did not try it yet]

or, would i be ok just misting coats of paint?

what kind of coverage should i be aiming for on each coat?

i ask this, as i have painted some flat surfaces with good results, but my first effort on something with curves and raised areas has been disastrous.

any help/suggestions/criticism are welcome,

thanks, tom

p.s. the parts that aren't sagging/pooled are dust free, and smooth as silk--no orange peel at all.., ain't that a kick in the head? lol.

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Posted · Report post

l must be one of the few but l only use paint at room temp. Paint/rattle can is thinner then 10 years ago. lf you heat it it gets thinner. l put one or 2 good coats but thats up to the builder. Your going to get all kind of advice but 2 light coats are better then 1 heavy coat. Hope this helps....

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Posted · Report post

thanks. I stripped it and started over. couple light coats, then a heavier one. have a lot of orange peel, but that'll be easier to fix than the first mess I ended up with. I suppose given I haven't painted a model in forever, my second attempt on this body isn't too bad. nowhere to go but up from here.

photo_zpsf803e344.jpg

photo_zpse2c94433.jpg

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Posted · Report post

That looks good. glad it worked out for you...

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Posted · Report post

Sharp edges can actually "repel" paint, or at least it's very hard for a liquid (paint) to remain in place on a sharp edge, so you should always knock down all edges, corners, recessed panel lines (the edges of the recess are actually slightly raised when you look very, very closely), molded on trim, etc. Plus, the sanding gives the paint something to "grab" onto once it starts to flow out. This is also why light mist coats are recommended at first, then once you've built up a thin layer, heavier wet coats can usually be applied.

Dark colors sprayed over white plastic or primer make the edges and raised detials even more obvious, so try to stick with a grey primer if you're using a darker color.

Here's an excellent basic painting reference article: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35#.Uk9P57s6QxA

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I use a sanding stick, or those foam nail boards, to sand, before I do anything, why, it will knock all the high spots down, and especialy around the doors, and pannel lines, it will even show up tiny sink marks, then I prime, dark primer, dark paint, light primer light kolored paint, I use dupli color paints, and, or, both finger nail polish, to paint with, never had a problem, and if ya like the smoothie look, no chrome, after ya sand, a nice even coat of clear will show any ghosting lines, and always, go light mist coats, till ya get full coverage, then, a heavy coat, not to heavy tho. hope this will help ya out some.

Edited by Gothic Kustomz

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Posted · Report post

thanks for the tips and link. I went with the white primer thinking it would help keep the blue it's more 'natural' color [if that makes sense], guess I was trying to over think it.

I cleared it yesterday, then put it in the dehydrator for about 4 hours. I picked up a kit of those micro sanding pads and sanded the clear today. after sanding it, with water sheeting on it, the orange peel is about gone, I think if I get it polished out, i'll be pleased with the result.

as usual, learning as I go........

thanks again for the help.

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Posted · Report post

Mike is right about the dark color/dark primer. If I'm spraying a darker blue like you painted your rig, I spray it over flat black or at the very least, gray primer. That way, if the paint does pull away from the panel lines,edges etc., it won't be as noticable as it is over white primer. Also, 2000 grit sandpaper is more than smooth enough for sanding your primer. Paint needs some "tooth" to stick to. If you sand your primer too slick, it's like spraying paint over fresh bare plastic.

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Posted · Report post

yes, I definitely did it all wrong as it were, lol. when I started this I had half a thought about the panel lines and potential issues, but as it was my first body paint job, I armed myself with half the pertinent info and gave it a go. I think I may have this one halfway salvaged, it will serve as my benchmark I suppose, with the info offered here, and on the site in general, I feel the next one will be significantly better.

thanks again for all the input.

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