Fortheloveofgassers Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 I want to replicate the Blair's speed shop 1955 2-door sedan gasser and I have 2 challenges I would like to get advice on. I want to leave off the front bumper. The nose and splash apron on the 1955 AMT sedan kit aren't even close to looking right. It looks like a block of plastic. On the other hand the nose on the Monogram kit looks fabulous. Has anyone grafted the nose from the Monogram kit to the Amt kit. The scales of are different. Amt at 1/25 Monogram at 1/24. I would love any input on how to correct this issue. Second challenge I would like to radius the rear wheel well as they did in the 60's which is not a problem but how can I get the rolled edge back? Evergreen strip and putty? Would love your input. Thanks in advance. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddyfink Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Why don't you just primer up a Monogram Bad Man and throw the Blairs Markings on it. Trying to graft that nose onto the AMT kit won't work out too well and the AMT 55 is a bit more correct to begin with. As for the wheel wells, yes, some small styrene rod and putty should do the trick. My friends 1:1 ex Gasser 55 had rebar and bondo to form the wheel well lips. So, why not in scale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) It might be easier to use that Monogram body instead of AMT body as Jesse said above. But you said that the scales are different... Yes they are, but I personally think it doesn't matter if the scale is 1/24 or 1/25 as long as the parts fit together. I mean that parts from different kits can be different size, even if they were the same scale, so I have always just thrown the 1/25 and 1/24 parts into a same parts box. The fitment of that part is what matters, I guess. For wheel wells, the styrene and putty works great. Edited October 3, 2013 by W-409 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt T. Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 If you're not opposed to a diecast-bodied kit, pick up a Revell 1/25 American Grafitti pre-painted "Falfa's" 150 post sedan. It's ready to go racing with a hood scoop, radiused/lipped rear wheel arches and a front splash pan. You will need to remove the bumper mounting boss, but a hacksaw will take care of that in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbuzzed Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 Have you checked out the front clips from either of the two Revell '55 Chevys? They might be more accurate and they are 1/25 scale. I think you're on the right track with your idea for the rear wheel openings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortheloveofgassers Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 Thanks to all you chimmed in. The problem is the Monogram Badman is a hardtop and want to model the 1955 2 door sedan and that is only made by Amt. So the real question is how does one modify the front splash apron on the Amt kit (under the bumper) look better than a blob of plastic when the front bumper is not used. Again thanks in advance for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffs396 Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 The '55 also looks good without the splash apron Ed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortheloveofgassers Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 The best way to radius the rear quarters is, after you have your radius, glue some thin strip styrene to the newly shaped wheel opening, make sure it protrudes out slightly then run super glue around it. It will wick the glue , let each application dry and repeat until you are happy with the "flare" Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hOLMS Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Good luck with your build, I may be starting a 55 soon and interested in which way you go with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortheloveofgassers Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the feedback. I will show pictures as I progress. Again thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyLvr Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Ed: FWIW, I have also been working on a '55 gasser project based off of the venerable AMT '55 "shoebox" kit. Another problem to watch out for, if you haven't already noticed, is that the chassis of the AMT has the exhaust system already molded in place - quite a bummer to fix. After making some test fits, I found that the nice plain chassis from either Monogram '55 convertible or '55 hardtop (both 1/25 scale) will fit the AMT with minor adjustments... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortheloveofgassers Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 name="ToyLvr" post="1022789" timestamp="1380941420"]Ed: FWIW, I have also been working on a '55 gasser project based off of the venerable AMT '55 "shoebox" kit. Another problem to watch out for, if you haven't already noticed, is that the chassis of the AMT has the exhaust system already molded in place - quite a bummer to fix. After making some test fits, I found that the nice plain chassis from either Monogram '55 convertible or '55 hardtop (both 1/25 scale) will fit the AMT with minor adjustments... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete L. Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) You could try round plastistruct tubing, the type with the wire inside of suitable diameter. This way you can shape it to the wheel well and glue it in place. I believe that one method used by 1:1 car buiulders is to use conduit as a "bead" around the radiused wheel well. Edited October 9, 2013 by Pete L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortheloveofgassers Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Thanks Pete great idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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