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Peterbilt 351 with Peerless trailer

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This is an awesome lookin build. Very beautiful detailing.

Ive never done any kind of aging or weathering before. How is black wash done. It looks cool and gives depth to detail. Maybe a quick explanation.

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Now this is how a logging truck should look!! The frame wash and wear looks great, and the dusty dull appearance on the cab and tires..wow!!

Did you seal the cat yellow then apply the wash? Thanks

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I wanna know what in the world you are talking about with WATER LINES? Did no know such a thing was part of the peerless logging trailer. I have one. Explain please?

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I wanna know what in the world you are talking about with WATER LINES? Did no know such a thing was part of the peerless logging trailer. I have one. Explain please?

Okay, my version of logging truck has water cooled brakes with a tank behind cab, the jet nozzels on wheels and water lines. I assume that the trailer is equipped with the water cooled brakes too. If there´s glad hands for air brakes and electric socket for lights than there should be some kind of water line connection too. That´s what I am talking about.

First thing, my assumption may be wrong. Maybe there´s no such thing on Peerless logging trailer and the pics I saw were of different manufacturer. In fact, I haven´t seen a pic of 351 Peterbilt with the water tank behind the cab either. Those were the 350 models. I just want to build a logging truck with water cooled brakes and I´ve chosen the 351 because I had the cab and some other stuff for it. AMT Peerless logging trailer is the only kit available in 125 scale. Therefore the combination. It may be all wrong but I am on the path already. And I saw a model made by Muleskinner who did the same thing with Peerless trailer. That´s probably how the idea came across my mind.

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A little background,vintage logging trucks were equipped with water cooled brakes,hence the water tank behind the cab,the water could be applied as the driver saw fit, or as needed,overheated brakes were a common problem back in the day,water cooled brakes gave way to better airbrakes,bigger shoes,drums etc.............hope this helps........................Mark

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Jarda, please don't think I was picking apart your setup. I think it is great!!!! It is looking awesome!! I was very confused by having never heard of water cooled brakes before. Mark, thank you very much for the clarification. Keep up the good work Jarda. Doing great.

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first Jarda its looks great and from the waterbrakes i have seen it already on the pacifics and hayes

for what about the picture of the peterbilt its not in belgium but in holland , thats museum belongs to my former transport company [ de rijke ]

the old boss have a lot of old trucks and cars in the museum

the peterbilt was stil running at that time and sometimes it go to a show for oldtimers

it take about 3 years to finished the paintjob on the compeet combo , on the trailer is also a couple of old trucks painted from the beginning of the company

have worked there for about 25 years til the sold the liquid section to hoyer where i now work

but it is stil a impressive old truck

i follow this one

jacobus

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I owe you some answeres. To Petertrucker07:

- The dark wash is a common technique used especially by 1:35 scale modelers. I am sure you can find a lot of "How To" articles on forums like this, that will explain the technique a lot better than me. I used AK Interactive streaking grime but there is more colors for wash on the market. You can also mix your own desired shade. I usually mix a very dark shade of brown - black spectrum. If you use enamels, you need to seal the surface by an acrylic lacquer. Only then you can use oil paints for wash safely. You can dilute the oil paints by turpentine, white spirit, Zippo lighter fluid....

Apply this mix with the tip of the brush to the raised details or grooves. The color will collect in the grooves or around the raised details. If it´s too intens, add the clean thinner. Remove the excessive color by cotton swabs. That´s real quick explanation. If you´ve never done it, try it off model first.

To Gotnitro?:

- I didn´t seal this color as it is automotive type. I suppose it´s acrylic but I am not sure about that. So far there´s no problem with the AK Interactive wash.

To Txdieseldog:

- No problem, Barry. I understand it must have been confusing for you, especially if you have the actual Peerless logging trailer with no water cooling system for brakes. Thanx for kind words on my model.

To Jacobus:

- I am sorry for misplacing the museum location. The guys that went to On The Road contest in Jabbeke, Belgium and took the pictures of the 351, said that the museum was on the way. I didn´t realise that the museum could be elswhere than Belgium. Thanks for correcting me and also for the story of the old Pete. I said it looks like a circus wagon...

Well, it´s really not my taste but now I know the reason for that paint job. And you´re right. It´s an impressive old truck.

Thank you all for your comments and explanations.

I have installed the engine to the frame. I also put the radiator in its place but it was after I took these pictures.

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I had some problems with the cab´s interior. First, I found the resin dasboard to be vertical while it´s slightly angled upwards in the real truck. Like this.

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I found the problem too late. The dash was cemented in cab already. But I couldn´t let it go. I ripped off the part and glued it back after correction. But it´s still not okay as all the other angles changed too. Plus, it brought another problem. I couldn´t get the steering column in the right position. I had to relocate the hole in the floor and move the driver´s seat backwards to get so -so position at least.

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I added some tangled wires under the dash.

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I also added some under floor details. The other side of the pedals is usually omited in the model trucks. It won´t be much visible through the hood side but again, I couldn´t let go.

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Till next time...

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Not to hijack the thread but a quick note on washes. AK Interactive and MIG both offer a wide variety of washes, pigments and 'streaking' washes. They are made for military models but work great for trucks.

Back to the topic at hand. Been following this build on two forums. Incredible work.

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The last few days I occupied myself working on the pipes and valves in the cab. I used K&S aluminium tubes which are awesome to work with. The valves and hexagonal fittings are made of plastic channels. With a photo of the real thing I tried to copy every possible detail but kinda lost the track of proportions. Too late I realised that the plumbing is more of 1/16 scale than anything else. Here is some pics.

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I put pretty great amount of work in this thing and it took me four afternoons to make it. I am quite disappointed with the size I ended up with. Like it or not, I launched another try. I hope it will look better. Perhaps like this...

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In this picture I see three valves but I wonder if there is the fourth one also hidden behind the hand wheel. I suppose that the yellow lever is of the main shut off valve while the other two (or three?) control the amount of water running to the wheels. Is there someone who can explain how this thing works?

Thanks, Jarda

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Thanks for the quick tutorial. I will be trying it out for sure.

This truck is looking really good. Im speechless at the detail so far. Cant imagine how much more detail theres gonna be. Very nice work

Edited by Petetrucker07

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I reworked the piping in the cab to a smaller size. I think it fits better even though the details don´t stand out that much. The following picture shows both attempts on the plumbing.

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This is the the smaller one

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I´ll get the hand wheels from another modeller in a short time.

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Remarkable work with a large worries of realistic.I like the work that thou doest.thou hast done a beautiful weathering.

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A bit more update done. I painted the plumbing inside the cab, glued the passenger door to the cab and added the cable to the log cradle. I am sorry for the missing mirror and broken ladder. The model is far from being finished and it has been through some accidents already.

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I was wondering why there is the cable on the cradle at all. Is it just stored there or does it strengthen the cradle? Does anabody know?

Thanks, Jarda

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Jarda, this is one of the best built I ever seen... Cooolosal :)

Edited by Pavel A.

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Jarda, this is one of the best built I ever seen...

I would have to agree, your attention to detail is beyond description. One of my favorite threads !

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Dude, this thing is just too awesome, already.....Great job, Man....Way beyond my skill set....Very nice work....All the weathering and detail execution is really paying off.....Definitely a prime example of how realistic a model can be.....

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Accidents do happen on the workbench sometimes. I ve read a lot of stories about crashed models that hit the floor. My was hit by my indoor TV antenna located temporarily just above my workbench. It got loose somehow and fell down hitting point blank my logger Pete that I was working on again.

This is the mess I ended up with.

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Furtunatelly, even though the model fell apart, nothing broke really seriously. It was just the glue joints that did not withstand the hit. There is only one part that needs to be replaced and it is the front axle. The only part that really broke.

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There is some minor damage to the cab but this can be fixed quite easy. One windshield is gone and so is the hand wheel off the water tubing.

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I was deperate for a while but now I am back repairing the model. Here is the original hand made axle and the metalic replacement.

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First I had to cut off the broken axle. The springs are undamaged.

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From this moment on I am back on building track again. A few steps back but what else is left there to do but carry on?

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:wacko: Yikes!

It sucks that it was damaged, but it looks like you're already making great progress with the repairs. I once had a model crushed by a box falling off a shelf just above my workbench. Shortly after that happened, I took everything off the shelves and then removed the actual shelves.

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