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'86 Iaconio Motorcraft/Budweiser P/S build

36 posts in this topic

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Hey folks:

For those of you who've maybe seen my long winded thread of my AMT '66 Purple Nova Street Rod turned pro:

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I've finally finished and now started an '86 Iaconio P/S by Monogram. Enjoy my 2nd build and please add cricitism where necessary. Thanks!

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Posted · Report post

Sharp detailed build. Nice decals..

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Great start, love the carbs!

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Thanks guys. The carbs have been torn down and rebuilt, which is what you are seeing now, unfortunately. I had RB Motion pre-annodized Red and Blue fittings super glued into 1:1 locations, but trying to work with .025 wire and that resin Pro Tech fuel block was just too much for my hands. I'm 56 and on pain meds for a disabiling disc disease. I've seen styrene used like this to establish a common line between the carbs, then you can either fabricate your own slightly larger fittings (Tamiya makes a GREAT red/blue transparent paint that you use over flat alum.) out of styrene and CA glue the braided lines to them. You can also use Ted's alum wire or rubber line if you want.

Whatever you try, the key is to carefully cross reference Ted's alum or rubber line recommendations for RB Motions fittings if you decide to use them. Braided line vs. the other two options requires different RB fittings since the I.D. of the fittings don't match up exactly with the O.D. of aluminum wire or rubber line!

But heck, after all, that's the fun in this hobby. You can go box-stock, semi-detailed or insane like some. I am SO new to the game I just hope my compromises don't look dumb! :blink:

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Posted · Report post

Looks like a great start.

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Looks great so far, I love the 80's era of drag racing.

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Goatguy: I owned a '66 Goat in H.S., circa 1975. Is that what you mean by your nickname? Steve - thanks man. I've been hooked on pro mods from the early days of the Soff Seal '57, the Shoebox Ford, etc. and now I'm trying some other classes. So what does Ohana stand for?

Anyway, I need some feedback guys. My only other two builds came recently; 40 years after childhood attempts at T.V. Tommy Ivo's original FED, and I used craft hemp painted to look like fuel line LOL! This time I decided to really try 1:1 and like I said, it seemed too much aggravation. Well, I already had $50 invested in Robs AN fittings and decided to push on. So, here are the pics of what I just finished as I couldn't sleep. Please tell me if I should continue to pursue this level of detailing; I mean if it looks really bad, don't be shy. I'm not in it to compete or show of here on the board. I'm just really intrigued by detailing. For anyone else here who works with these fittings and line, do you just use Robs .056 fitting (fits .041 line) so you have extra room for an .035 braided fuel line? I figure most of my future pro mod builds will be .035 braided line from the cell to the distribution block, then .025 to the carbs. Not sure about my Chi-Town reissue or my Candies & Hughes. I may just use aluminum or rubber line and still buy bigger fittings.

I can't believe everyone else uses CA glue like I had to?! Well enjoy and critique!!!

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Posted · Report post

Mitchell, the detailing is looking pretty good to me, I'd say stay with it as much as you can, I've seen worst (mine LOL!).

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C'mon Richard, you know we're are own worst critics. So what's "Ohana" stand for bro???

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Ohana is a term used in Hawaii that means family....not always in the blood sense ,but more in the we are all here on this board together enjoying the same hobby so we need to respect each other kind of sense. I believe 500 post is what makes you a Ohana....or "family", if you notice Mitch your title will change as you post more. This is a very typical thing on message boards to kind of show how much a person is on here posting ect. Keep detailing my friend, if you are having fun than its a good thing. There is always room for improvement...heck that is a huge reason I love this hobby so much. Just remember all the detail in the world don't cover the basics....seam lines, mold mark's...not using Bare metal Foil ect. Keep up the good work.

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I think your fuel line/fitting work looks good, Mitch. I'm curious about something. The fitting from RBM, are those Robert's pre-anodized ones? It runs in my mind I've read where you said that. If so, how do they stand up to handling? I've tried using the red and blue magic markers on the standard finish fittings of Robert's and it comes off really easily - which is why I'm asking about these... Keep up the great work, brother!

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I'm looking forward to "Ohana" my friends. Scott, yes, they are Rob's pre-colored annodized fittings. Pricey though albeit very realistic. My problem has been that the recommendations on his site: A/N Straight Fitting 2pc design Hex Width 0.79mm (.031") is stated to fit a .025 braided steel line. I couldn't get the line to fit in the red bore open end and so ended up using CA glue which produced less that perfect results. IMO, I think you need to order the next size up to have the .025 line fit comfortably: A/N Straight Fitting 2pc design Hex Width 0.96mm (.038"). I just got another order from Teds and test fitted his .038 I.D and .041 I.D. fittings and they work perfectly for me.

There are migitatigating factors, Scott. Being disabled, I tend to tremble a bit with my hands and steadiness isn't all that good. As for the standard finish ones, they're less expensive (Yaaah!). I haven't tried this yes, but I bought Tamiya acrylic "turn signal red & blue" translucent paint. I'm going to try straight paint and then using a flat alum (testors) and then the Tamiya. I've been VERY pleased using these paints to touch up Rob's red/blue AN fittings so I'm positive I'll have good results. If you can wait a couple of hours, I'll post here or PM you with your answers. Sharpies are great for springs on coil-overs too! Peace bro!

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Hey folks - things are running a little slow right now; I've got the rear end/wheelie bar piece assembled and it's a pretty cheaply molded piece overall. I'm trying to justify waiting and saving up some money for some of Scott's pieces from futurattraction like a 9" Ford rear and 4 link, I just don't know if they are period correct pieces in combination.

I am having fun with some of Rob's spark plug fittings from RB Motion. The 429 Boss heads (Kaase?) in the kit have valve covers with built-in pins resembling spark plug heads. It takes a little time using .018 line and these tiny black rubber fittings, but the end result is really nice looking. More pictures to come when the headers are attached, the rear is in and the wheels are on!

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Latest set of pics - I shoulda waited until I test fit the primered body to add one more as the profile is astounding, but... Here's all the detail it will ever see. I added alternator wires, cut some rubber tubing to fit over the coolant lines, cut and sanded the slicks for 1:1, added the headers and got the rear in and touched up all the goobers. It has a fire extinguisher too. I don't think I'll go for this level of my interpretation of detail again for a while as it wiped me out and there are folks out there putting resin blower cogs and real belt material on their builds! I have a 1/8th pre-built collector's Hemi and it floors me how much MORE detail I missed: throttle linkage, springs, etc. LOLOLOL! Enjoy and have a chuckle at a rookie climbing the ladder 2 up, 1 down...

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2up and 1 down is still progress Mitch and the fun is in the journey (so they say lol) . Pics are a little small but from what I can see it looks pretty good ! You dont have to impress us candy is still candy whether its melted or not ( bad analagy maybe but what I'm trying to say is, we all appreciate the builds others put up whether box stock or Tyrones or (anyothers ) high detail eye candy. The only one that has to be truely happy with it is you. I, myself dont detail everybuild, not only would it bore me but it would almost turn it into a job ie not fun so if you want to detail great, if you dont still great, the point is have fun, continue to learn and build for yourself.

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The chassis/engine came out looking real good Mitch, like the red wheels, can't wait to see it with the body on.

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Excellent detailing update. Looks really good.

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Very nice start. Looking forward to seeing it done

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Thanks for the positive feedback guys! It's a really good outlet though when you can't get around much anymore! I was going to tone it done quite a bit until: a) I saw the Pro Tech build gallery with their 1/25 and 1/16 blown engine builds which showed me every fuel line doesn't have to be braided, B) I realized how much creativity you can come up with using Evergreen styrene to keep from buying every fuel block needed and c) I finally found Pro Tech's instructions on how to wire up one of their fittings!

Now I just opened up the HOT ROD (Kallita re-release) MPC flopper and I'm thinking of trying a few of these blower details before I get to my Candies & Hughes and re-issue Chi Town Huster waiting in the wings. You can tell I'm a drag fan.

If any of you have been on Pro Tech's website, you may have seen the automotive gallery there. It has "Pro Tech" builds as well as private builds. Lots of good stuff!

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Mitch, not sure what the MPC floppers are going to be like to go together ( have the Kallita and hotrod as well as the Judge which apparently needs a bit of work ) however, point is the Chi Town is a beautiful kit to put together and as such may be easier to detail as everything fits already with no fuss, There's several built up on here mine included if you want to check them out. Charlie ( Pro Tech) has a few builds on here showcasing his products as well as his beautifully clean work so hunt them down too if you have the time.

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Brett: Yep, I checked out (well, stumbled upon) the gallery on Pro Tech's site and amongst the other builds, Christine totally blew me away! Although historically, it was a NOS car (I'm a pro mod/top sportsman freak), I really like the blown version. I'm thinking that might be a Ross Gibson resin engine although I'm not sure.

Chi Town is certainly beautiful from the promo pics and I've seen articles on the original real car, a rebuild and the model build itself. What a unique design with offset engine and escape hatch! This Hot Rod flopper is so simple from the instructions and the pre-fitting I've done. I'm going to scale down the detailing, leaving it to consist of a rubber line from the fuel cell to the pump, a little braided line up to a handmade fuel block by the injector butterfly linkage area and another braided line to the rear blower hat block. I have some Pro Tech .031 hard line which I'll form and run four on each side of where the hat meets the supercharger.

The cost of the cogs and a belt won't be spent here, the moldings have a cogged belt and decent cogs. I'll just try to cut some really small pieces of my styrene rod(s) until I can come up with a bolt head design that I can glue to the cogs. I'm trying to find a way to fashion an MSD mag with the molded top on it and the wires coming out underneath.

The only thing I was worried about was a Logghe style chassis which as to be glued together. Luckily this one is one piece and very compact. If I decide to detail the blower, I've been told I'll have to adjust the cutouts in the body for the top of the engine. Should be a chance to test either my dremel or a heated xacto blade.

BTW, I just went back and showed my wife the thread of your Camaro build with the soldered brass chassis and the awesome hand constructed front A-arm and coilover suspension. She can "appreciate" the effort, but isn't as jazzed as me over the expertise!

Have a blessed day Brett!

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Very nice Bret. I really like the wheels/tires in that kit, as well as the decals supplied. It's going to be a fun build!

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Sorry - had to add a couple more pics from my friend's much improved camera - I'll keep it short:

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Much better pics :) and it does look really good. Try putting a little flat black on the plug leads at the dizzy/mag end, it fools the eye quite a bit and makes it look more realistic .

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