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1941 WILLYS AMERICAR GASSER 1/18 diecast- back to stock


f1ford48

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I took this 1/18 gasser down to the frame and built it back to stock with the flathead 4 cyl.the interior was redone with a bench seat and stock steering wheel and dash. the rear fenders filled back in around the wheel openings with epoxy and styrene.same for the blower hole in the hood.whole car lowered with new suspension. wipers and gas cap added as well as a front bumper. the hubcaps are carriage bolt heads that were sawed off the threads.other parts scratch built and pirated from the 1/18 boneyard.

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Edited by f1ford48
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yes the ''Americar''was on it-just took some dark blue paint to get it to stand out a bit more.also black washed the grill-theres all sorts of little tricks that can be done to make these 1/18 cars look better.

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Edited by f1ford48
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  • 1 year later...

Not sure how I missed this one. I was lurking for an old post of mine and WOW! This looks great.

I posted on my current repaint that I plan on doing this. Now that Acme has a detailed kit coming out with the correct stock headlights I decided now is the time.

What did you get the engine from?

Thanks

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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Those rear fenders look terrific.  From the original posting date, you built this a while ago.  How have your epoxy and styrene patches held up all this time?  Any separation or cracking in the area of dissimilar materials?  I am new to modding diecast and have wondered how this type of patch would hold up over the long haul.

Another great build/mod.

 

T

 

 

 

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Thanks Ted-yes there are problems with the patching-. a year after painting the hood had hairline cracks at the gap all the way around-the fenders -however never had a problem. sold the car on e bay a few years back so I don't know how it held out after that- but I have not heard anything.  If anyone has a better way to do this kind of work on die cast maybe they could tell us. as I sure would like to chop a few coupes.

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I keep thinking I'd like to try soldering the stuff myself.  Some guys in model railroads have done it.  The right flux, the right solder, real low heat... and lots of practice.  I have some scraps to try on ... and only time to lose.

I also wonder if there are any new epoxies, adhesives or bonders out there since your build.

I keep looking at the 49 Buick ragtop in my cabinet wondering if there were a way to put the hardtop from a Caddy on it and build a model of the first car I ever drove.

T

 

 

 

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that might be easier than you think if it was carefully cut around the base of the windows -all in one piece- take some measurements and see if things would line up.

 as far as soldering pot metal- very hard to do because of the different make up of the pot every time. some of it is really low grade stuff.  a while back I heard of the die cast cancer where some peoples models were actually starting to disintegrate right under the paint. terrible!

one thing I think I will do is use real automotive spot putty on my fill next time-I think the industrial stuff will have less tendency to crack. 

on the black custom F-1 below you can see the problem of filling the hood trim as well.this time no cracking but'' Ghosting'' my mistake was in sanding down the trim and filling it in. what should have been done was to cut flat patches and graft them in-then putty. 

 

 

 

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Edited by f1ford48
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that might be easier than you think if it was carefully cut around the base of the windows -all in one piece- take some measurements and see if things would line up.

If life were all that simple.  I bought the 49 Buick ragtop, the 1953 Buick ragtop and the 49 Caddy Coupe deVille ... none of them correctly match my Father's 1951 Buick Roadmaster (Black, grey interior) ... but there are elements of that car in each of the models.  It just might be easier to start with the Caddy ( or ANOTHER 49 Caddy ... I really have come to like the one I have) and start from there.  But that project is WAY down the road, I have much I want/need to learns first.

 as far as soldering pot metal- very hard to do because of the different make up of the pot every time. some of it is really low grade stuff.  a while back I heard of the die cast cancer where some peoples models were actually starting to disintegrate right under the paint. terrible!

Re: the diecast rot:  Don't I know it!  I have a bump on a fender of one of my Bburago 356's that ain't just paint.  It looks exactly like how rust/rot begins to form on a 1:1 car.  I ended up with a lot of paint failures (especially Black paint), but ... so far ... the Bburago Porsche is the only one showing signs of possible die cast rot.

I have read a LOT about soldering diecast, and I know about the difficulties, but I have also read of the successes, howsoever few they may be.  Like I said ... I have scraps ... and time.  I'm willing to invest both just to say I gave it a shot.  Who knows ... even a blind squirrel comes across an acorn every once in a while.  B) 

one thing I think I will do is use real automotive spot putty on my fill next time-I think the industrial stuff will have less tendency to crack. 

on the black custom F-1 below you can see the problem of filling the hood trim as well.this time no cracking but'' Ghosting'' my mistake was in sanding down the trim and filling it in. what should have been done was to cut flat patches and graft them in-then putty. 

I've only been at this a very short time ... you on the other hand ... :o.

Just on a dumb guess, see the aforementioned unfortunate squirrel, I picked up a tube of the 3M product.  I apply it over primer, i.e., paint on paint.   So far, it seems to do what I need it to, and appears to hold up OK.

Thanks for the conversation!  This is a very pleasant way to spend my morning coffee.  Beats the dickens out of reading the news!

T

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