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      Board Status   07/20/2018

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Paint Strippers - What to Use?

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Have been soaking my Tamiya turntable paint stand in Purple Power for about two weeks now, with mixed results. The edges and in a little bit are clear, but the center paint is just not coming off. I've pulled it out a few times and tried scrubbing at the paint a bit. Very little seems to come off that way. And yet it gets all foamy as I work on it.

I think it's maybe the Tamiya primer that's stopping it? In the past I've had pretty good luck with Purple Power. But, I'm thinking of trying a little brake fluid at this point.

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Have been soaking my Tamiya turntable paint stand in Purple Power for about two weeks now, with mixed results. The edges and in a little bit are clear, but the center paint is just not coming off. I've pulled it out a few times and tried scrubbing at the paint a bit. Very little seems to come off that way. And yet it gets all foamy as I work on it.

I think it's maybe the Tamiya primer that's stopping it? In the past I've had pretty good luck with Purple Power. But, I'm thinking of trying a little brake fluid at this point.

Get a bath of IPA too. Swap it back and forth between the two ( rinse off with water and dry in between swapping).  I currently have an Audi R8 body I got from a garage sale that was painted with I dont know what, but I've been swapping it back and forth from SC and IPA and its managed to clean off the paint. I do find that the different baths do have different results pending on what type and which manufacturer the paint is from.

David

Edited by Jhedir6

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Get a path of IPA too. Swap it back and forth between the two ( rinse off with water and dry in between swapping).  I currently have an Audi R8 body I got from a garage sale that was painted with I dont know what, but I've been swapping it back and forth from SC and IPA and its managed to clean off the paint. I do find that the different baths do have different results pending on what type and which manufacturer the paint is from.

David

What is a "path of IPA"?

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What is a "path of IPA"?

opps, "BATH" it was late, and I couldn't sleep. Fixed now.

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opps, "BATH" it was late, and I couldn't sleep. Fixed now.

Okay, that's fine. But, what is IPA?

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Okay, that's fine. But, what is IPA?

IPA is Isopropyl alcohol. 

I have a bath of both IPA and SuperClean. When I get a stubborn paint job that won't come off in either one or the other I just swap it back and forth between the two. I use to large rectangular plastic tubs, with lids, and just fill them up. For the SC, I usually get a full years use out of a 4L jug. With the IPA I'm on my second tub of it now, but I just started using it earlier this year and I was experimenting with stripping different paints so I used it up faster than I probably would under normal circumstances.

David

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I can totally verify that Super Clean works way better than Purple Power.

But the best for me seems to be 91% or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and/or ELO.

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Has anyone run into this situation? I used both Purple Power and oven cleaner to strip what appears to be very old metallic lacquer from a Hubley '60 Ford wagon. I finally got nearly all of it off after soaking it for a week in a fresh tank of Super Clean; however there is still a powdery residue remaining after I rinse and dry it, especially in the crevices. The surface has slight etching from the lacquer; I sanded the body down and that seems to take care of most of the etching and the residue, but I really want this thing clean before I prime it. I haven't tried the isopropyl alcohol yet (can get the 91% at Target OK), but will it work on old lacquer?

 

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Okay, that's fine. But, what is IPA?

 

IPA is Isopropyl alcohol. 

 

India Pale Ale ?

....and lots of it....

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I picked up this "Graffiti Remover" today to try after I had a chevy pickup sitting in Purple Power for 3 weeks with very little movement. Truck was painted with Gravity Colors metal flake about a day befor going into the bath.

I only soaked a couple of test pieces but t it removed everything to bare plastic in no time and only required minor scrubbing in tight areas. One of the prices I used some squadron to fill a hole and it did attack that also. Since the body has a fair amount of 2-part filler and some squadron on it, I'll just leave that in the purple power and scrub as needed. So far, it does not appear that the purple power is attacking any of the fillers used on the body.

IMG_1482.JPG

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There is a lot of responses to this so it may be a repeat. I've used ZEP floor wax stripper with very good results. Its about $10 a gallon

but that lasts a long time as I reuse it over and over, sometimes adding fresh to "recharge" it. I have not had any issues with the plastic being damaged or crazing.I use a bucket or tupperware container with a lid, it will evaporate. I have not tried this on resin so as always test first. Also always wear gloves and eye protection as it is fairly strong stuff! Good luck!

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I use a 50/50 mix of Dettol/Water mix, I have tested this on a body painted with Tamiya acrylic that was painted 7 odd years ago and it stripped it clean after about 12 hours, it does leave a slight Dettol smell but it goes away after a few days.

So far I have found that it works well with acrylic and enamel.

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I use Revell's Paint remover, works like a charm! i must say so far ive only used Revell's own aqua color, and tamiya spray cans, works on both!

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I use Revell's Paint remover, works like a charm! i must say so far ive only used Revell's own aqua color, and tamiya spray cans, works on both!

I don't recall seeing it in USA. I wonder if it is similar to the Testors/Floquil/Poly-Scale Easy Lift-Off paint remover.  Are its ingredients listed on the bottle/can?

Edited by peteski

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Jeroen PM'd me the link to that Revell stripper. Thanks Jeroen! https://www.revell.de/en/products/colors-glue-co/other-accessories/id/39617.html

The active ingredient is 1-Methoxy-2-propanol which I believe is a chemical similar to what is used in the Testors Easy Lift-Off (ELO) paint remover: Dipropylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether, Isobutanol.  Still, too bad it is not available in USA so I could try to see how it works.

 

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On ‎6‎/‎17‎/‎2010 at 3:16 PM, twistedswift said:

i use some stuff called LAs awesome orange from the dollar tree 64oz for a buck and i have had great luck with it like over night and most all paint is gone

i just use a plastic shoe box with a lid and it work's great.

Picked some up a few days ago. Have a couple of bodies soaking in it. Takes a little longer but these bodies have been painted a long time. Both painted with Testors. For 99 cents a gallon I'm not in any hurry. Very satisfied so far.

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On October 29, 2015 at 10:56 PM, martinfan5 said:

Yes, it will,  the 'name brand" will do it much faster and better, the off brand, will, but you would be better off using 91% alcohol at that point

Sometimes it will , it just depends,  you are better off spending the extra couple of dollars and getting the name brand

I have 2 Monogram Jeep bodies with Tamiya Fine White Primer from the spray can, that I've been soaking in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol for about a week or so.  At one point I put them in a tub of Clean Rite Purple Power but the Purple Power didn't remove anything.

Will Super clean be effective on removing the Tamiya Fine White Primer?

Should I try Oven Cleaner or Brake fluid or just pick up some real Super Clean?  A friend said the oven cleaner and brake fluid both tend to dry out the plastic.

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1 minute ago, crowe-t said:

I have 2 Monogram Jeep bodies with Tamiya Fine White Primer from the spray can, that I've been soaking in 91% Isopropyl Alcohol for about a week or so.  At one point I put them in a tub of Clean Rite Purple Power but the Purple Power didn't remove anything.

Will Super clean be effective on removing the Tamiya Fine White Primer?

Should I try Oven Cleaner or Brake fluid or just pick up some real Super Clean?  A friend said the oven cleaner and brake fluid both tend to dry out the plastic.

It works for me most of the time, this is the stuff you want to use

 

302212.jpg.png

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2 minutes ago, martinfan5 said:

It works for me most of the time, this is the stuff you want to use

 

302212.jpg.png

I'll pick some Super Clean up.

What about the oven cleaner or brake fluid?  Should I try one of those or stay away from them?

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28 minutes ago, crowe-t said:

I'll pick some Super Clean up.

What about the oven cleaner or brake fluid?  Should I try one of those or stay away from them?

That is all up to you,  I have never used either, I would say give the purple stuff a try first,  and a tip, the warmer it is, the better it works.

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I have British cars. They seem to need a lot of brake fluid. So, I generally use DOT 3 or 4. Works well, and doesn't attack the plastic. Get a large bottle of the cheapest stuff you can find. It seems to remove most any paint.  You might have to scrub some of the paint in the panel lines out with a toothbrush. Denatured alcohol will clean off the residual brake fluid. 

Do NOT get the DOT 5 brake fluid. It's silicone and won't do a thing to paint. 

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I used bleach earlier today to strip the chrome plating off some wheels and backs. The chrome plating came off in no time, however the clear undercoat is still on the parts. What do you guys use to get rid of that? Thanks.

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On February 22, 2018 at 10:50 PM, martinfan5 said:

It works for me most of the time, this is the stuff you want to use

 

302212.jpg.png

I picked up the real Super Clean and I have the Monogram Jeep bodies soaking in it.

How long should they soak before the Tamiya Fine White primer will start coming off?

 

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1 hour ago, crowe-t said:

I picked up the real Super Clean and I have the Monogram Jeep bodies soaking in it.

How long should they soak before the Tamiya Fine White primer will start coming off?

 

The only answer I have for you is it varies,  in most cases it wont just come off, you need to help it via scrubbing. 

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