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L'il Coffin


mk11

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Have any of you guys picked one up yet? I'm wondering if mine is an exception or part of a bad batch. Badly warped body and chrome tree very rough on one side making the front wheels unusable without stripping/replating/acladding. Ejector pin marks on the outer rim don't help either and judging by the box art, that may be endemic to this as the box art model has the rim painted black.

mike

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Have any of you guys picked one up yet? I'm wondering if mine is an exception or part of a bad batch. Badly warped body and chrome tree very rough on one side making the front wheels unusable without stripping/replating/acladding. Ejector pin marks on the outer rim don't help either and judging by the box art, that may be endemic to this as the box art model has the rim painted black.

mike

Yes- the injector pin marks were there in previous issues of the kit. As for the chrome being rough, mine is fine though the nature of the body pieces make them easy to warp if sprues are removed too soon or boxed too soon during the manufacturing process.

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Ditto to what Greg has already said . I've bought a few of these over the years including one of the latest reissue and they are all the same . No warped bodies but the chrome has never been the best and yes , all of the front wheels have ejector marks on the rims . . . too bad 'cause otherwise they look pretty nice !

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Like most buyers of this kit, I was going for the chassis, engine and wheels. Kind of dumb to engrave the front wheels facing opposite the rest of the prime parts. Oh well, hope the request to revell will bring some passable wheels at least...

mike

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if you have a copy of the 50th anniversary edition of the Lil Coffin handy, have a look at the box art for it. The ejector pin marks are very clearly visible on the front wheel on the box art. They have been like that probably since the very early issues of the kit. I agree that it is strange that they would choose to do the front rims like that instead of turning them around to face the other way. As far as the warp, that body is fairly flimsy so if they pulled it out of the molds before it was cool enough then it could possibly warp. A bit of hot water and some patience should straighten it out for you.

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If you have warpage AND bad plating, why not contact Revell about getting a replacement kit? A small problem might have been passable when retail prices were in the $10-12 range, but when they are double that, I don't bother fixing stuff...I contact them and get good parts.

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Those are aluminum wheels on the real car. The only real chrome would be on the center caps and lug nuts. I would sand the outer rims smooth to get rid of the ejector pin marks, then mask off the centers and hot them with Alclad. Brush some gunmetal or similar dark gray on the spokes, and you are golden.

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You can sand the front rims flat and then BMF the rim get rid of the ejector pins.

Wonder why the box art car builder didn't do that... beautiful job otherwise

That's a good idea, as long as the rest of the chrome is good & smooth but unfortunately it's severely pebbled and actually thin enough to see the white plastic through in a couple of spots. Just awaiting revell's response to my request for replacements...

mike

Edited by mk11
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