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My Metal Mistress: Finished !


FASTBACK340

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This might sound familiar, but I'm going to build a full detail replica of my `68 Barracuda. I have the interior, wheels/tires, and modified grilles ready to go. I'm mating an original `68 annual with a Revell Dart chassis. The engine will be a Ross Gibson 6 Bbl. and I will swap in a short tail 4 spd. I just have to dig up a nice 8 3/4…..

Here we go. Again…..

Edited by FASTBACK340
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Better luck this time around! Does the planned engine match your 1:1?

Yes, my car has a 6 Bbl small block w/ 4 spd.

I'll cut the chassis to fit that old MPC beast, then I can start fixing the front & rear valances so it looks right. Once I get the wheelbase and width addressed, I'll set ride height, mock-up the engine, and trim the interior tub to fit the new chassis.

Then all I have to do is put it together…… barefoot. :lol:

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I also forgot to mention: Revell had the good sense to include the 8 3/4" rear end in the Hemi Dart version. I don't have to swap a Dana into my car to make it accurate…. :o

I'm also re-doing the grilles using chromed Modelhaus pieces. Hey, if you knew me personally, you'd know unpredictable behavior is my middle name. :rolleyes:

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OK…. in order for the Revell chassis to fit inside the old MPC shell some cutting is required. The Dart has a 113" wheelbase, the Barracuda 108". Out comes the Zona saw…..

I cut the floor pan and hope it will be less noticeable (hopefully….) later. After cutting about 5 scale inches out, I braced the rails with square brass stock and clamped everything together. I also added a overlap piece of .030 plastic to act as a permanent brace.

*The brass brace is temporary

Here's the cut & spliced floorpan

Naturally, I had to slightly "trim" the interior bucket

Once the chassis is nice & solid (I have one more reinforcing trick to share) we move on to the engine compartment fitment, engine block assembly, and ride height.

Edited by FASTBACK340
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While I was watching the glue dry, I realized I needed an Optima battery.

I grabbed some old sprue….

Made two stacks of three, and glued it all together...

Once dry, cut to the proper height and make a thin base & top. Drill two holes and insert a short piece of aluminum rod

There you go.

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We badly need a new tool of this vintage Cuda! This will be sweet!

Ohhhhh…. you have NO IDEA how BADLY we need a new tool. What a fantastic companion piece to Revell's `70 Sox & Martin car. And then spin it off into a Hemi under Glass. Then a generic factory BO29 Super Stock kit so the aftermarket decal makers can have a field day. Ray Barton…. JESSEL's WARFISH…. or how about George Poteet's Blowfish LSR car?

Geeeez…. I have to go self-medicate. My head is spinning….. :blink:

BTW: Maybe we can finally have a CORRECT Judy Lilly "68" Barracuda, and not the `69 they've been pedaling to us for years thinking no one would notice. And never mind the side marker lights being correct, everything else is WRONG.

Edited by FASTBACK340
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OK, here's some shots of the Ross Gibson resin engine kit. Yes, kit. Over 40 pieces including highly detailed bits that will a Mopar geek smile.

Here I had already assembled the upper & lower block halves. The front & back block details are a separate piece….
Here's those carbs….
The 727 Torqueflite is nicely done, as are the stock valve covers. Everything in this picture will be in the parts pile.
These will be Metalized Aluminum to replicate the manifold & aluminum Edlebrock heads on my car
Now, THIS is a detail a true Mopar guy loves to see. Included is both the early & late water pumps with the reversed outlets!
Photo-etched fan and wire looms are included, along with the corresponding Dodge six-pack / Plymouth 6Bbl. designations.

This is NOT for the beginner. The preparation of the resin parts is time consuming. Getting the block halves flush was a chore… but it will be spectacular when done.

My modeling is done for the day. Tomorrow we carry on with some fitment issues, and then we hit the `70 build….

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I haven't been brave enough to assemble my Ross Gibson ProMod Hemi yet. I will follow this closely because the motor you are using is the one I want to use when I build my 70 Cuda as an AAR Cuda.

Looking good so far John.

Edited by Skypower
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I hate when I can't devote the amount of time I want to at the bench…. :mellow:

In my previous update I mentioned the Ross Gibson resin engine being a bear to assemble. I'm going to try and show where and how to deal with the fitment of raw resin pieces. By no means is this the final word, just what works for me. As always, if someone can amend my procedure, please do so.

When looking at the mating surface of raw cast resin it looks rounded. That's where you have to carefully level the surface so it mates smoothly and tightly without removing too much material. I start by drawing with a Sharpie on the surface I want to sand. A cross-hatch pattern gives good reference.

I usually give the part one or two swipes to see how aggressive the sandpaper is removing material and how fast the piece will level out. Here you can see the marker reference being sanded off showing me where to apply pressure.

I lay a piece of fresh medium grit paper (approx. 220) and apply light pressure to where it needs to have material removed. BTW: Your not cheese-grating bondo here…. GO EASY AND S-L-O-W!
Eventually, you'll have that nice, smooth surface. You can see the marker is gone and the edges are nice and crisp. Slow, methodical work pays off. Here you can see the backside of the timing chain cover, nice and flush.
It's almost 10:00 pm and I chose to post this how-to instead of getting involved at the bench this late at night. I'm off this weekend so I'll probably get some seat time. I have too much just sitting right now….. :unsure:

Edited by FASTBACK340
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