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Pocher Rolls Sedanca


Cato

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I daresay, old boy. Smashing job, but a bit on the rakish side, what? It's all well and good for those bounders that drive Bentleys, mind you...

Rakish was the goal. ;) With Rolls elegance. Very tough to nail but I'm trying. :blink:

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A clearer vision...

Seeing the elements closer to finished and planning many steps ahead. The blue is the proposed beltline to be made from .030" with probably an .080 raised bead in its center. Wheel and fender just hanging in place so will be neater when fastened. Trunk is cut and altered and studying whether to lower it a tad more. More seams than Frankenstein monster right now but soon to get Bondo. The cut door top edge allows a smoother more flowing beltline. The landau bar shows how much the roof has come down. Compare to earlier un-cut photos.

This is all for study and small changes may happen if it doesn't sit well with me over a day or so.

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Looks great with this lowered profile. I like it.

Do you know the landau bars are mounted upside down in this photo? Theball is supposed to be topside so they can fold. So far this is the only flaw I have yet seen in your impecable build of ths model Keep at it.

E-

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Looks great with this lowered profile. I like it.

Do you know the landau bars are mounted upside down in this photo? Theball is supposed to be topside so they can fold. So far this is the only flaw I have yet seen in your impecable build of ths model Keep at it.

E-

Yes, thank you Eric. I just slapped it on with a dab of tape for a cheap thrill. To see a chrome or painted part in place gives incentive.

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Your body modifications are sleeker and more stylish than the Pocher kit, which seems to have been influenced by Barker and Hooper Sedanca/cabriolet coachwork, and a bit closer to a Gurney-Nutting Phantom II Continental. This is the Gurney-Nutting car that Revell's 1/16 kit is based on.

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I might add that threads like this and some that Harry has done are invaluable to any modeler who wants to build a classic Rolls in any scale, especially a PII.

Edited by sjordan2
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Thank you Skip and Mike. Nice to have your support.

Yes Skip your example photo of 201 RY has been a huge influence on me. No stock Pocher kit captures the low roof line, dead level hood line and level louvers; something very hard to do on a Pocher.

I'm not making an exact Gurney replica but taking all the classic cues with a little of my own expression.

I'm about 90% there with the main architecture.

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Over 15 hours work...

And not proud to tell you; that's just the trunk to this primer stage. Many guys go much faster than I. That also does not account for several hours of just looking at it to get the design as desired.

The summary: over 15mm's removed from the top surface (not counting 2 or so for the saw cuts - you must take that into account when you start your design) and 2mm from the bottom to slope the back forward. Vertical height cut by 3mm at the body side and 2mm at the spare tire side. Lid sectioned accordingly. Strange phenomenon; when you cut the slope angle at the trunk rear, it has the effect of pulling the front trunk wall rearward. Leaving a big gap to the body. So you must add that section (roughly 15+mm's) back onto the forward sides of the trunk. Results, more seams to fill but you get a nice custom fit to snuggle against the back of the bodywork. That's known as winging-it as you go... Then three applications of Bondo and sanded from 80 grit to 600. Three coats Duplicolor Sandable Scratch Filler prime; 1 mist, 2 medium. Small amount of skim coat needed in 2 small spots. When finalized, wet 600 or 800.

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Here's what came out of the lid:

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For comparison, here's an earlier shot of the full-sized box in height and length with no slope. Drawn on it is an early sketch of a proposed slope when I decided the trunk needed to 'streamline' to harmonize with all the other lowering and clipping. I'm pretty glad I went this route with more rectangular edges. More in keeping with the Gurney Nutting influence but with a bit of 'style':

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You nailed that trunk Cato.

There's part of me (big part) that doesn't want to see this end ... I'm having too much fun watchin

Thanks again Skip.

Mike, you might get your wish; this may not end until I take my last nap... :(:rolleyes: 

Edited by Cato
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Here's a thought to make you squirm...

Will the trunk open to reveal a tool tray?

It would if Meit or Cox built it! :lol:

Skip, please understand; I'm building way over my head here and working features like lights, lids, steering column controls and micro switches are the ken of those gods. I'm shooting for perfectly opening and closing doors and hoods. Maybe a nice paint job. Those will all make me really happy.

i don't intend ANY fingers opening lids and switching lights. I just wanna look at it forever if I get that far. :wub:

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Another piece of the puzzle...

I promise you're not looking at the same picture over and over but it may seem that way. Here is a look ahead by trial fitting the hood panels in place. They are a project unto themselves when I get there. Just wanted to see how hard the work might be ahead. Got a pleasant surprise.

For this mock-up, the body and floor are final-bolted to the frame. The now-finished trunk fit perfectly in its spot. The fenders are bolted on, not hanging. So this is nearly the finished look of all the panels and clearances.

The hood side panels are taped in place and the happy surprise is that the louvers are parallel to the hood top edge and virtually in line with the cowl louvers. A primary reason to lower the firewall and channel the body was to get that louver alignment. No stock Pocher Rolls kit produces this accurate scale look.

The addition of the hood panel side hinges will make the louvers about perfect. You can see the cut line at the cowl needs material added and a bit of truing at the grille shell but that's small effort. If you look way back in the thread you can compare to early mock-ups before all the cutting. It's a dramatic change. Made this all worthwhile. Now to tackle the door fit and hinging, a formidable job to get right.:

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So, once you make sure everything fits, are you going to have to take it all apart for painting?

Absolutely. Many times. Paint, interior wood / leather / carpet, all glass; the list is extensive. That's why I changed so many fasteners away from the Pocher screws to much more durable bolts and studs. This many changes has dictated constant disassembly and reassembly for trial fitting. Virtually nothing is attached as Pocher designed it any more.

Edited by Cato
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A change in plans...

I have been steadily working on the doors / body fit and hinging. None of it according to Pocher or Koo methods. It's a very detailed process and is time consuming. However a marvelous weather change brought 43% humidity and comfortably cool, windless conditions-so I decided to take advantage and get some parts in color. Also a nice change from tedious work.

In finished color is the 'new' trunk and the rear fenders are in primer. ALL of this after days of seam-filling, sanding, coating and re-coating.

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The fenders have had their contours refined and the trailing edges thinned - like the aircraft guys do. Makes for scale thicknesses and more elegant lines. Also filled some 'rash' from being in the box so long. All primer and color here is the Duplicolor system.

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I'm calling the trunk 'finished' as far as construction. It has been chopped about 5mm, sectioned almost 20mm at the top and the upright back wall (the tire mount) has been sloped forward. The filler is Bondo 2 part and many hours of sanding and refilling are done. The hardest was the lid. When you slice it and rejoin you have changed the compound curves and always get visible seams and lumps. A session on the belt sander followed by repeated fillings and sandings rectify that.

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An important tip; I have found that the method of sanding to 400 grit, then airbrushing a coat of Future as a barrier prevents ghosting of filler. Then prime, use a gray scuff pad and add another barrier coat. You want it smooth and flat - just a sheen. Now begin the color coats. I wet sand between with 1000 grit. You just want to build up color not make a layer cake. I find with Duplicolor lacquers I get the highest gloss by a light scuff with 1500 or 2000 and then go to their clear. That's the one I polish with cloths for final finish. Seen here, the red is done awaiting scuffing and when construction is over the clear will be applied. I know many builders get excellent results more easily or faster but this is what works to the standard I'm trying to achieve:

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Given good weather again I may color the fenders. But the doors are looming on the bench...

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