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Pocher Rolls Sedanca

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Impossible to tell from the real item in many of those shots that don't have any scale reference items in them. What a marvelously Titanic effort you've put into this Cato.

 

Duly impressed.

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A summary to this point...

Work done in small amounts over several week. After much experimenting, I decided against fabricated hood top panels and discovered I could alter the stock kit panels effectively. Using Bondo filler, I improved the panel gaps and using heated water got the front contours more correct. I made new top edge moldings after removing the kit's molded-in ones. I also improved the hinge pin front bushing to get the correct hood height at the grille. Again, you must click on each photo to see the uncompressed image. I hate that the software does this as I already reduce all my photos for uploading. Sorry...

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At this point I could move onto the side panels which required relocating the louvers to get them in line with the cowl louvers. No stock Pocher kit can do this. Using a .060 styrene sheet and the side panel, I cut the block of louvers out of a spare panel and carefully located where they must go in relation to the cowl's louvers. I then cut a window in the styrene and mounted the louvers. This gives the look of a true Gurney Nutting Phantom. Blending the join with filler will make it a one-piece panel.

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Colored in graphically, this is what the final appearance will be:

1016M_zps0wle2iha.jpg

 

 

Edited by Cato

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Sweet ... Those prior hood tops looked like they were going to give you problems ... they didn't seem to sit right 

 

question: I see a lot of use of what appears to be plastic mesh that folks use with the filler material, as in your second pic in the above series. What is that? I don't see it in automotive shops ...

 

 

 

 

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Sweet ... Those prior hood tops looked like they were going to give you problems ... they didn't seem to sit right 

 

question: I see a lot of use of what appears to be plastic mesh that folks use with the filler material, as in your second pic in the above series. What is that? I don't see it in automotive shops ...

An important tip is to chamfer holes that will get filler and bevel edges of plastic parts. This allows the sanded filler to blend with the surface without a hard line  which would show under primer. Gives a bit more surface area for filler to cling to also. I use 3M surigical tape which is semi-transparent and has a nice tack - like Tamiya yellow. I use it as a 'floor' on the back side of a piece which will get filler. The 'mesh' texture lets the Bondo get a nice grip and when it cures, the tape pulls easily away and the Bondo does not flake off. You also don't have to sand the underside unless it will show. Here's a better look:

1005_zpslklfbszq.jpg

 

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Nice as allways, any progress?? :)

Yes Bo, but with many interruptions. I have modified the panel seen above by moving it rearward so the louvers are closer to the cowl like many Phantoms were. I have also made the beltline mouldings to match those on the cowl. I have just completed one set of side hinges for the hood top and side panel on this side, so the panels will raise and open as the real car. Here are two photos showing the final placement The tape marks are for alignment - the hinges are holding the top and side together.

1018M_zpshdhwddtt.jpg

1019MM_zpskzuqay3b.jpg

 

Edited by Cato

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After a long illness, work has slowly resumed on the hood panels. All of the putty and seam filling has been perfected on the passenger side panel. It is shown here with a stock kit panel to show the differences.

The new panel is lower to match the body channel and the louvers placed to align with the cowl louvers. The red line shows the height and angle difference from stock as well as being further back. The yellow scrap shows how the side panel will be painted.

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With the door mounted, the overall lines and ride height are evident as being lower which makes the side view visually longer. Next is to build the opposite side to match and hinge the 4 panels together.

1020M_zpsghfvofvi.jpg

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Beautiful Cato.  Thanks too for the great info you shared on how you did it.  cheers

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Thank you guys. I've completed this side's panel and here it is in white primer. Currently at work on the other side and it's just ready for first gray primer.

1027M_zpsylunrvgl.jpg

Seen from an end looking across the surface, there are no seams or waves. Lot of fill / sand / prime cycles to get here.

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One major key to good, flat joined seams is to bevel the edges of the mating surfaces. Gives the filler more surface area to feather into the parts. 1024M_zpsqo0fzpfk.jpg

Because the louvers are 3 dimensional and are a different thickness than the outer edges, shimming, here with index cards, was needed to get the outer surfaces flush. Then glue outer to louver panel.

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Getting the important stuff right; the louvers align with cowl, the cut lines are tight and the mate to the top panel (here without hinge) is tight. Photos of primed panel maybe later today:

1030M_zpsxrffymkp.jpg

 

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Nice work. Is the hood the final piece of the puzzle. Truly like the design.

Thanks Bob. Getting close but still to come are final mounting of the finished doors, driver's spot light, all hood panels and Flying Lady last.

Of course the hood painting will take me a few weeks to get right but the weather is ok now for that. No rush after 3 years...

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I like your work! It will come out great.

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Sides hinged to tops, it all looks like this. To come, center hinge and paint.

1032M_zpsg4pe3kyp.jpg

1031M_zpsbul91frz.jpg

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