MitchP Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Agreed Larry. I've seen one too many tranny explosions/fires from "games" being played at the tree with other power adders while the turbo(s) are trying to spool up. I'm afraid even the concepts are a little over my head LOL. However, I will offer that modern day Powerstroke diesel trucks with BBs and big turbos often have a smaller turbo that spins up the air to an acceptable level to fulfill the larger turbos needs. Taking a glance at Gainesville qualifying, blowers and NOS are in the top 5; I don't think a turbo appears until after that, maybe in 6th place. Maybe there needs to be some changes in the staging rules so if a car goes in and lights both bulbs, the amount of time allowed for a burn-down is reduced and the 1st in is at less risk for a tranny boomer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 larry, first what ever car you were participating with in competition, i'd love to see it. race cars are just the coolest!!! as far as wallet size's. i did the same thing. we raced well over our heads when it came to money but, we never complained. we knew our bank roll was small and we just enjoyed the fact that we got to play in the same sandbox for a little while. i'm guessing there's more than one question in there but, the only one i can see is this. So I don't know is nitrous used in gasoline only class? in the ADRL, no. alky and gasoline are permitted in both PX and PN. you must remember nitrous is an oxidizer. it doesn't care what fuel it is mixed with. at std. atmosphere is about 21% oxygen by volume nitrous is about 36% by volume. more oxygen + more fuel= more power. a little simplistic but, you get the point. as far as the turbo guys using nitrous. it all depends on who's tuning the car and who you want to believe as to whether they're using it down track or not. it seems to be a bit of a hot topic between teams. if there is anything i can help you with, please don't be afraid to ask. if i don't know the answer, i don't know. if i do, i'll tell you what i know. larry, if some one rolls in and puts both his bulbs on at once. then goes up on the convertor(or rev limiter) shame on him. 3 of the 4 bulbs should be lit before any one goes to that point. once 3 of the 4 bulbs are lit you have 7 seconds to complete your staging process or you are disqualified. going up against the convertor or rev limiter on 2 bulbs being lit is just a rookie mistake. period. hopefully this sheds a little light on that. like i said, i'll help when i can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchP Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Dave: Perhaps I was looking at it from the wrong perspective. In any case, after burnouts there are consequeces for any type of car whether it be NA, NOS, roots blower or turbo if both cars simply procede forwards and light the 1st bulb. They can build up heat, or be timed out by the starter and sent to the back of the pack, right? Now here's where I was heading: if they're both at stage 1, the turbo car should start to spool up and prepare to go in to meet that 7 second rule. The opposition could dive in to stage 2 and if they don't have the necessity to spool up, they're ready to launch. Again, build heat unnecessarily and perhaps having to continue to purge the NOS lines to have a clean hit might be the only risk for them. I've lost track of technology to the point of where I don't know how much boost these puppies are putting out anymore or how long it takes to get to optimum launch based on converter flash point. I'd love an update on where ADRL is at now in terms of preference of setup and ease of maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 this is larry's post. if larry's o.k. with us continuing our discussion, i'll try to answer your question mitch. if not we can either start a new post or p.m. me. i think i see what you're saying but, the rules in place handle the situation you have in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchP Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Sorry Larry, I'll back off here. My enthusiasm got away with me. Good evening all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryT Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) My type of racing was sand drags... no tire burnouts since we used high flotation paddle tires with plenty of traction the idea being to get on top of the sand so you are launching from a dead stand still deep in the sand where you must explode coming out of the hole and get on top of the sand quick...the race is 300 feet long and it's over in the blink of an eye. Funny thing when I was getting the car ready to install the motor in my mind I thought would have to have hood clearance problems what with high rise cab and tall (8 inches tall) air filter system Ha the engine sits many times lower than inline six that was in the original engine package and 50 lbs. lighter...of course no ac, power steering, or accessories where on this vehicle. The real treat is watching the hill climbs...I saw a blown and injected hemi powered cj5 type jeep body on tube chassis altered... idle speed with the drivers feet on top of his windshield ledge to the center of a dune that had a real honest to goodness 70 degree incline and 200 feet tall...he stopped put his feet on the gas and exploded out of the hole and over the top of that hill with no sweat...most people trying to climb that hill take a running start from the bottom of the hill with speeds near 40mph and barely make it over the top...some don't even make the top. If you stall on a hill you can roll over (vehicle will always get sideways if you attempt to back down) so must turn around on the hill if you're sure it's a no go to make it over the top. Sand is a different world of fun and you rely on centrifugal force to stay up right wihen making a turn out, or spin the large holes created by the wind in the dunes...scares you when the vehicle slides down like your going to roll over then the energy kicks in and your stuck on the side of the hole going at high speeds around the rim. It's just fun beyond words to describe it...then there is the desert at night...the stars are so many, and you could hear pin drop a great distance. Actually I miss that when I think about now. L3 Edited March 18, 2014 by LarryT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryT Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hey fellas right now I'm burning time trying to gather materials for the chassis jig, so I don't mind cross chat till the build gets started...The fixture jig is really no design of mine since I found it on a site that makes drag race car chassis...I modified the design to suit my build scale and simplified some areas...again for my type of construction...the chassis jig holds to the centerline as the primary point of reference to all additional equipment...It hold right angle support to the centerline reference at full width of fixture which will be about 5 inches wide. it has an overall length of 10 inches to cover the wheel base and cockpit construction and past the rear end...but it doesn't reach back to where the wheelie bar will reach. The chassis has a base made of wood, and topped with aluminum plate that is a bit thick to permit some drill and tap holes...this also will make that part of the fixture stiff and sturdy for any other future use. the over all width of the base is wider than the metal plates so a sliding rail can be used to handle upright support for elevated structures. down the center of the base is a cut groove that is the centerline and forms a t slot when the metal plates (strips if you prefer to think of them as being) one on each side of the groove. Enough on this fixture talk I'm tired and seems to confusing to rattle on when the construction starts (soon I hope) you will see it's not as complicated as this sounds. Oh my wife's computer keyboard went out so I must share my keyboard and this means my only time to respond is when I get home from work...she is asleep and I can use the board to answer mail and respond to post. L3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryT Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 I'm sorry for the delays, but I'm still trying to gather materials and some parts for my car...too explain further I have yet to have the front tires that fit my front wheels so I cannot establish the wheel base even if I had the jig materials, but I do plan to start the jig construction the moment all materials are present...in the meantime I'm working on drawing ideas to define how the jig will look and what it must do (what specific dimensions must be held at all cost). it is one thing to build a jig that secures tubes on a flat surface, but another to position these tubes on a 3D surface off the table top...not being a jig/fixture maker it is a by guess trial and error construction...That is what happens when building only kit cars your entire life....now trying the real big boy stuff. I have seen modelers build from simple layout drawings (they make it look easy) but having build a couple of boats in my day I now how crazy things can look (twisted keel to bulkhead alignment)...and that hold true for tube chassis construction...so I feel a jig is the safe plan. Hope you all can bear with me and will keep you posted from time to time. L3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryT Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Just came in for a short visit as I'm having health issues that demand my time and don't leave me able to retain a long thought span for now....I do appreciate all the advise and suggestions...so to answer Comp1839 I feel it is best to build for fun. I gotta go now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryT Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 (edited) Hello everyone, I've had some medical problems that stopped my building anything since I couldn't use my hands. I do have use of my hands now but have found parts supply for the 1/16 scale car are not available. I have decided to change the build to a 1/25 scale and see if I can produce a car that will be enjoyable for everyone. I still want a pro mod build and like the looks of the Willys...so here is what I have in mind. This car image was found on the Mad Modler site I was attracted by his building a Fiat Topolino custom car. This build will require me to alter the looks and the engine will be the hemi but turbo charged...remember the scale will be changed to 1/25 and I'm not sure I should start a new forum just for that build...and don't know how to close this forum...any suggestions would be helpful. LT Edited July 20, 2014 by LarryT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryT Posted July 20, 2014 Author Share Posted July 20, 2014 What scale are the models you showed. I was just looking over the posts and noticed this question....all those models are 1/25 scale...this build started is 1/16 scale and I never worked that scale before now...in fact I have just recently taken an interest in building drag race cars when I followed the Pro Mod build of the XKE...for me that was a jaw dropper and pulled me into attempting the large scale, but with recent builds on the 57 chevy pro mod turbo it has inspired my interest to build that style of engine for these cars I have in mind. This Willys build has had such a bad start I would feel better if it were closed and an new beginning made...I just don't know forum procedures...in fact I don't usually attempt forums as I'm not comfortable with moving my cars around to photograph them...had one roll off the stand doing a move to photograph and lost all that work...L3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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