FASTBACK340 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) I'm approaching paint on my Barracuda build. I have a full bottle of Scale Finishes L1 Turquoise to replicate my color. Can I shoot Tamiya Acrylic Clear over it? I don't want to use a rattle can over the A/B finish, yet I don't have the ability to obtain enough automotive clear to make it cost effective. If not the Tamiya (which I already have) is there anything bottled that gives decent results? I'm not looking for that "ten feet deep" finish, but rather Fisher-Price simplicity. Thanks! Edited March 15, 2014 by FASTBACK340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ1971 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I don't think you should have a problem with the Tamiya, but if you're worried, do a test on a spare hood/part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vypurr59 Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 As long as your base coats are dry. You should have no problems, shooting an acrylic clear over any finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Basher Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I've had good results with Model Master "Gloss Clear Lacquer Finish", #2017. It works fine over oil enamels and lacquers. I have never tried it over water based paints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Thanks everyone for replying. OK, as per Scale Finishes site Acrylic clear will work over their paint. My next question was going to be what to thin it with. After Googling for answers (I got multiple answers…..) I'm headed out to my LHS to buy Tamiya thinner for the clear to play it safe. I'm NOT painting a THIRD body!! Edited March 16, 2014 by FASTBACK340 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psychographic Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) I know the initial investment for a qt. of automotive clear is a lot compared to a small bottle of hobby clear, but when you compare them ounce for ounce, the hobby clear is WAY more money. Clear is something you use on almost every paintjob, so to me it makes sense to invest wisely. Add the shipping costs or the cost of gas each time you need another 1-2 once bottle of clear and the cost really skyrockets. Check your local auto body supply houses for "off brands" many of them are made by the major paint suppliers. One brand that comes to mind is Nason, they make a great clear and it's considerably cheaper than Dupont, PPG, Sikkens, and other major brands. Also look to see if they have a house brand, these get even cheaper. I can buy a qt. of house brand urethane clear with the activator for the price of about 8 ounces of clear lacquer from the hobby shop. That does NOT include the price of gas or shipping. Another cheap alternative is Duplicolor's pre thinned qts. of lacquer at about $30. These can be bought at Auto Zone, Advance, etc.. They take a bit of getting used to and need to be thinned a bit more for airbrush use. I found you need to apply very thin coats allowing each coat to flash. I bought the basics for base colors, black, white, silver and the clear. I rarely use the clear other than for temporary sealing of a color. Paint is NOT cheap to start with and the little bottles of hobby paint are astronomical. Edited March 16, 2014 by Psychographic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaydar Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I am not familiar with a Tamiya gloss acrylic clear. Can you give me the # ? They have discontinued TS-13? If that is what you have it is not acrylic it is a lacquer. Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Dave: I know buying it by the ounce is always more expensive, It's just that tomorrow I start working for an automotive restoration shop. I'm sure I'll get to know the paint dept. eventually, so I *might* have a source of SMALL quantities of 'the good stuff" in the future. Joseph: The Tamiya clear states it's Acrylic on the label. I believe the number is TS-20 or 22….. I can confirm later when I go upstairs. I was out doing house & dog food shopping and was near the LHS. Otherwise, it IS a bit of a drive through several congested towns on a 2 lane road thats shared w/ commercial vehicles. It's about 7 miles of pure annoyance. Believe me, I try and plan my LHS visits wisely (like today….). Thanks for the replies from everyone. I'm going to experiment with the Scale Finish product w/ the Acrylic clear coat. I need a smooth, realistic finish, not candy-coating like a custom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vypurr59 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Tamiya's acrylic clear is X-22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 John, here's a few pics of cars I clearcoated with Tamiya's Acrylic Clear. As Jeff mentioned it's the X-22 on the label. These were both cleared over automotive paints (the 'Vette was lacquer, the Magnum acrylic enamel), and they still look good today with no cracking or other funny stuff. One caveat I can give you is that if you're doing a white car, I would let the clear setup a bit before putting it in the dehydrator to speed things up. Tamiya Clear I've found tends to yellow quickly in areas where the paint likes to gather, such as door lines, fender creases, etc. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_G Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 No need to spend the big bucks for Tamiya thinner, I just use cheap 91% isopropyl alcohol from the drugstore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Tamiya's acrylic clear is X-22 I was about to edit my post. Yes, it's X-22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm planning on using the Acrylic clear over the Scale Finishes paint on my Barracuda build. Thanks for everyone's input. And Bill, that Magnum wagon is sweet ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 No need to spend the big bucks for Tamiya thinner, I just use cheap 91% isopropyl alcohol from the drugstore Hmmm..........Unless I was doing something wrong, I tried using isopropyl alcohol in the clear one time, and it fisheyed! Now this was a looong time ago (20 years maybe?}, perhaps Tamiya's changed the formula since then? I've used their thinner and never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm planning on using the Acrylic clear over the Scale Finishes paint on my Barracuda build. Thanks for everyone's input. And Bill, that Magnum wagon is sweet ! Thanks John! Another caveat is when rubbing out the clear, I would dry sand it as opposed to wetsanding it. This is water based stuff, and wetsanding it may lead to some funny stuff. I don't mean the comical kind either! I've done it this way on the builds you see there and while it was more work, the results paid off with the clearcoat remaining intact after rubbing and polishing it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike_G Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Hmmm..........Unless I was doing something wrong, I tried using isopropyl alcohol in the clear one time, and it fisheyed! Some isopropyl alcohol labeled as "rubbing" alcohol contains lanolin and fragrance- usually it's the 70% version, and yes it will fisheye. I haven't had that problem with the 91% stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 It may have well been the 70% type I was using. I've got a ton of Tamiya's thinner now, but when the time comes that I run short, I'll certainly keep the 91% isopropyl alcohol in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vypurr59 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 When rubbing out the clear coats, I use some paste type rubbing compound. I use the "Turtle wax" brand, then follow up with Novus #2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Thanks everyone for your input. I bought the Tamiya thinner today just because I only have so much of the air brush ready paint and I don't want to kill it. As it is I'm taking a huge leap of faith and air brushing the body. I've only done about a half dozen so far, although every one was nicer that rattle cans, which are soooooo convenient! We should be in paint by the weekend…. <fingers crossed> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaydar Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I was about to edit my post. Yes, it's X-22 Thanks guys. I will give it a go. I have a 1973 Kawasaki 900 painted and ready for clear. Joe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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