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-? Underchassis Headers : 440 A-Body ?-

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I've an inquiry about the underchassis headers in the latest release of the 1968 Dart GTS / Hemi kit : I realise that the headers are for the Hemi engine ; however , would these work as well -- without modifications -- on the 383 / 440 engine ?

I know that the Dick Landy SS/EA '68 Dart has big block A-body underchassis headers , but I don't want to pirate my Landy Dart just for its headers .

If the Hemi's headers don't / won't work , are resin versions of the Landy SS/EA headers available ?

Thanks :)

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Not without modification. The HEMI had evenly spaced exhaust ports, while the 440 had the middle two ports closer together, sort of like a small block Chevy. You could make them work with a bit of trimming and bending.

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Thanks for your prompt reply , Chuck :) !

I'm kind of leaning toward applying the Landy decals to the new Hemi Dart ; then I can pirate its 440 headers for another project .

Thanks again .

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It would be nice if somebody would cast them 440 headers. The Hemi ones to .While they are at it - how about that nice cool can that is in some of the Revell Mopar super stock kits.

Chris

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The Dick landy ss/ea dart kit has the wrong headers anyway as the real car had fender exit headers.

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I modified a set of the Hemi headers for use on my small block and they look like they're going to work out fine.

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There are a lot of 440 cars racing today with full length , under chassis headers. Not back in the day, today you don`t see many fender exit headers.

Chris

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But they're not fender exit headers.

If your referring to my picture of the modified Hemi headers they are undercar, as mentioned in the thread topic. For fender well headers, the Johann '64 Dodge is your kit.

As for big block A body headers, I think TTI are the only company making Mopar headers that are worth buying because of their quality and they fit well. Doug's makes a good small block header that tucks up nice. Hookers are a perfectly good waste of almost $400. They hang so low it almost makes the car a slot-car.

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While Fenderwell-Exit headers were most-common (probably 95% of the time at least) , there were a couple of outfits back in the day who made Underchassis-Exit headers for 383 / 440 Darts and Barracudas ; "J.R. Headers" and "Iggy's Muffler" , with the latter being the shop which Mr Norms used , at least on their 1967 GSS 383 Dart (which was converted from a Slant Six powered '67 GT Dart) .

I've even seen a couple of examples of Fenderwell Headers on 273 and 340 powered Darts and Barracudas . Not sure why a small block car received the butchery for fenderwell-exit headers ...

I really don't want to rob my coveted Jo-Han '64 Super Stock Dodge of its headers . I did manage to find a "parts car" Dick Landy '68 SS/EA Dart on eBay (via an email to one of the sellers I do business with ; an unadvertised kit) whose body was missing and its interior was cannibalised , but all of its engine / exhaust / chassis parts were still untouched ( !! :D !! ) .

Thanks to all of you whom have replied :) .

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The small blocks received the butchery because people don't want to have to deal with taking the steering apart. Nowadays, tti makes chassis headers that work better so no hacking. Also people running w2 heads had to have either fenderwell or one tube ran through the fenderwell for clearance. Hedman made these iirc.

FWIW: With TTI's you still have to pull the center link and slip it between tubes. If your running a scatter shield that and the clutch linkage will give fitment issues too. The HUGE attraction to TTi's are the thick no-leak flanges, quality materials, and they don't hang low.

You still have to " install" them....

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I use SBC headers on my Mopar LA, R/RB blocks you can't tell the difference.

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Ha! You should see what I had to go through to install the Kooks 1 7/8 long tubes on my 04 GTO! I can do a sb a body in about 3 hours with air tools and an engine hoist. It took me 8 to do the GTO!

Even with the Hooker headers on my dart and a stock reduction starter,I can change a starter in an hour. Its a chore though but I have it down to a science. Wonder how it's gonna be with 1 7/8 TTI w2 headers when I get there. Good to know about the scatter shield. Maybe I shall reconsider converting to 4 spd.

The right side of the scatter shield will contact the rear tubes tucking under the car.

SANY0035-vi.jpg

And the clutch linkage Z bar required multiple trips to the workbench with a vise and a torch to properly index the link to not hit the header tubes…. I used a Dodge Dakota factory "mini" starter for extra physical and heat clearance.

SANY0061-vi.jpg

Here's the only profile picture I have where you can see the ground clearance with the TTI system. I really didn't like the Centerlines….

Cruzing4aCause056-vi.jpg

Edited by FASTBACK340

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I used the landy 440 headers on my 69 super bee and they worked great. Would be nice to have a few more sets. On my duster kit I used the sbc headers from the 66 nova kit with no issues

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I finally found a good , vintage photo of Dandy Landy's real LS23M8B ; the photo shows the fenderwell headers clearly .

post-6643-0-84473100-1396227467_thumb.jp

For those of you whom have added fenderwell headers to your big block Darts , et al. : how did you go about fitting the headers to the engine ? Seems like a pain in "1:1" , so I can only imagine how much *fun* it must be in 25th scale !

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