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brett

Revelloution Demon

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Building the Revell/ Mc Culloch Revelloution Demon if it all goes as planned. The big 16th scale one, building it for one of our clubs two monthly theme nights (6 theme nights a year, April was car from a movie night, June is build a different scale night). Anyways, detail on these is pretty good box stock so apart from a little lowering thats all I'm going to do. Had to get the engine done so I can alter the tin a bit. The breathers had really bad seam lines all over them so I sanded them back and bare metal foiled them (as in pics) but I'm going to remove them and alclad them.finding pics without the body are a little difficult to come by so going off the best one I've got, it has a black frame, blue tin sides and fuel tank. Have used metallisers for most of the engine work so far.

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Dont expect any Sobak type building here, I havent the time nor talent to attempt that level yet :)

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Looking pretty good so far Brett, had a couple of Ed's Revellution F/C's, the Blue Dodge Demon (the one you are building I believe) & the Red Dodge Dart Sport in 1/16th scale, also had the Purple Dart in 1/25th (the Tin edition). All great builds.

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Looks like a great start Brett. Makes sense that a larger scale would allow for easier working room when it comes to detail. What do you mean when you refer to metallisers? It looks like some nice Tamiya colors there, maybe gunmetal or aluminum. Are the valve covers chromed from the kit or something else?

I see you used metal lines for the injector fuel plumbing; is this part of the improved detail that comes with 1/16 kits? Is that the same with the dry sump and any throttle linkage parts? I did the same type of fuel lines for my HOT ROD 1/25 Mustang (awaiting paint). I think it looks better than the run of the mill stainless steel or rubber lines.

I promised myself I wouldn't buy any more kits since I've got half a dozen or more unopened ones, but your build or the Jungle Jim larger scale really look like great projects (and much easler to detail)! I've also seen some pre-built parts like MSD mags available only to 1/16th scale as well. Rock on Brett!

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Cheers guys. Mitch , metallisers are a part of the model masters paint range that as the name implies have realistic metal looking finishes. I can only get a few different colors here so I mixed some together to lighten/darken to get the shades I want. They are primarily airbrush paints, ultra thin and cover great. I do have some Tamiya (brush) paints that I use to the same effect if I'm only doing one or two small pieces. As for the kit, its all plastic aside from all the rubber hosing and tires and sparkplug leads, so the injector lines are painted plastic. If I get the time, I may replace some of the grey rubber lines with more realistic looking hoses but this was before braided lines took over (afaik).

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Love it Brett. Any kit that goes so far as to include those kinds of details is fine by me. The Revell McEwen '57 flopper I'm toying with in between paint jobs is decent enough to include a simulated fuel system from cell to pump to engine, a dual dry sump oil filter and what I believe are supposed to be twin "puke" tubes from the blower to the top of the frame. I'm so OCD about having some detailing on the engine and ignition it gets repetitive in 1/25 scale builds 'cause they're so bland out of the box.

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Brett: great start, I've always liked this car. Keep us informed on how it goes together for you.

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thanks guys. Had a bit of a break from the bench for a few days, hope to get back into it over the weekend. Stan, you gotta come to a mph meeting, pm me for details if you'd like to come.

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cheers guys, been really slack at taking pics and even worse at uploading them, but have made some progress. Not sure if the black tubing for spark plug boots etc has shrunk a little but it was near impossible to get it over the leads, so I gave up on it at the heads end and painted them flat black. easy enough to pull and fix later, you'll notice that the leads are still a little long (thats why).

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coming out looking good Brett, the chassis & engine look great, the red paint on the body has a real nice shine to it, did you clear it already or just a nice coat of paint?, either way, she's coming out good!

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Thanks guys, Jason 1st thanks 2nd the roof is much better than the rest as it has no raised edges to burn through, although I did repolish the rest of the red since those pics were taken.

Had decal issues as I knew I would, even after coating them with Microscale Liquid decal film they still tore a bit and didnt want to stick. After using Micro set then Micro sol I ended up using touch's of Krystal Klear glue to hold them down. I'm picking up another kit next week so will try again with a couple of new methods and if that doesnt work will go aftermarket for them.

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still have to install chassis tin (painted yesterday ) and the front firewall (yet to be modified) then its just the brake lever

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Hello Brett.....Kit looks good. How did you get the body to sit low on the chassis?

Vernon

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Great work Brett, your paint jobs have come along nicely mate, and great engine detail too.

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Thanks Dale :) .

Vernon, I use 1320 Waynes tutorial . Cut the diff mounting points off the chassis and move them up as far as you can. cut about 4mm off the bottom of the roll cage and the tin work needs to be altered to fit. I also lowered the engine slightly by cutting the mounting bars off and attaching them lower,if you do this you will also have to remove a little material from the mid plate housing where it sits on the chassis. the best part of this is if you get that right you dont have to cut the seat to clear the driveshaft. Hope that helps a bit, but I strongly advise anyone wanting to do this to find Waynes' tutorial with the pictures. It is on this forum somewhere.

Edited by brett

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Thanks Dale :) .

Vernon, I use 1320 Waynes tutorial . Cut the diff mounting points off the chassis and move them up as far as you can. cut about 4mm off the bottom of the roll cage and the tin work needs to be altered to fit. I also lowered the engine slightly by cutting the mounting bars off and attaching them lower,if you do this you will also have to remove a little material from the mid plate housing where it sits on the chassis. the best part of this is if you get that right you dont have to cut the seat to clear the driveshaft. Hope that helps a bit, but I strongly advise anyone wanting to do this to find Waynes' tutorial with the pictures. It is on this forum somewhere.

Thanks for the tip Brett. I'll have to check it out, as it really improves the look of these great old kits. Many thanks and keep up the great work, always look forward to seeing your projects.

Vernon

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