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Using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine


m408

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They still make it, but now it's called "Pledge with Future Shine."

Different label, different (and stupid) new name... same product as before.

Yep, I just recently picked up a bottle at the local supermarket.

It was, and still is, an S.C. Johnson product. Not sure why it was relabeled, but probably for the "Pledge" name recognition.

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i had assembled a few kits with enamel testors rattle cans. i was leery of spraying lacquer clear on the enamel, so i went looking for future when i discovered they no longer make it under that brand. its pledge with future shine.

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Does anyone know if future "goes bad"?

No, it doesn't. As long as the bottle is tightly sealed it'll last forever. I bought a bottle several years ago, it's now more than half empty but what there is left in the bottle is exactly as the day I bought it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am posting this from another forum....

I use and continue to use Pledge with Future Shine floor finish on my models instead of spray-on clearcoats. As already stated, there is no ammonia OR wax in the bottle, but an acryllic sealant that bonds on top of the paint/chrome/decals and seals them in, protecting the finish. It will not harm any glue, resin, paint, photoetch, or decals you apply to your models prior to brushing/dipping the body, and it can be repeatedly added on to layer its affects.

The most important thing to remember about Future is that it seals in ANYTHING on the body, not only the stuff you want to keep, but stuff you DON'T want to keep, like fingerprints, dust, etc..., which is why the body must be clean and wiped of all fingerprints prior to brushing/dipping. Also, make sure the paint is cured properly prior to applying Future as it has the potential to cause the paint to run if still wet.

The benefits of Future are numerous...

1: can be painted on without mess.

2: can be sanded.

3: can be removed with ammonia-based products (like thinned nail polish remover).

4: anchors photoetched parts (after being applied with glue).

5: seals in paint and decals.

6: no noticable smell (just a soft, clean smell if anything).

7: can be removed by soaking the part/body in more Future overnight (thinning itself out).

8: can be glued to (better effects with superglue).

9: cleans plastic "glass" parts to an almost invisible cleanliness.

10: can be layered once the last coat has dried completely.

11: WILL NOT YELLOW OVER TIME like older floor waxes.

12: car's body can be DIPPED in Future (thinning properties will even out excess liquid).

Hope this helps!

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And another important fact I just learned about Future...

In fact, by using Future on chrome and the clear plastics, you can use Insta-Cure super glue and the chrome or windows won't turn foggy.

I have yet to test this, but if this is true then it means stronger windows and cleaner looking bumpers on models, as opposed to using Elmer's glue or Micro Krystal Klear.

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You dont need to thin it, it is airbrush ready out of the bottle, but be careful spraying, it pools very easily. Clean your airbrush IMMEDIATLY after spraying with ammonia.

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You don't need to thin it, it is airbrush ready out of the bottle, but be careful spraying, it pools very easily. Clean your airbrush IMMEDIATELY after spraying with ammonia.

Thanks Lee, I knew it could be airbrushed, but had no idea how to go about it. Time for the experimentation to begin!

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Thanks Lee, I knew it could be airbrushed, but had no idea how to go about it. Time for the experimentation to begin!

I also found Future to pool easily, just ran it through my airbrush straight out of the bottle.

I lost interest in trying to make Future work as a clear coat as I am having great success with decanting Testors wet look clear lacquer, though I still use Future for small clear coat touch ups using a brush, and it works great for decals.

Edited by Iron Fist
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With some practice it can be wiped on instead of spraying. I use the round disposable cosmetic pads from the dollar store. I dip them in Future and damp some execes off on a paper towel then carefully wipe it on to good result. I use a Q-Tip for smaller areas.

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Actually, it can help 'anchor' BMF - by coating over gaps and overlaps thereby reducing the potential for snags that might peal BMF off.

:)

Perhaps, but I have builds from 14+ years ago, the foil is not coming off at all. Just a simple observation, not trying to argue with you Dan. :D

Edited by midnightprowler
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