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Using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine

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It's labeled now as "pledge floor care finish"  2X more shine. Multi surface finish. Part# 746860. Bar code# 46500  00182. 

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Applying "Future Shine" to tires to put decals on them, how is it best done? Sprayed through an air brush or simply brushed on? (I plan to make some Redline tires, and would like to try this stuff as I got a little of it and want to see/get a feel, of how its used....

-Thanks guys!

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Sorry if this was already addressed in this thread.

If Future is applied to parts before assembly and then regular cement is used to bond the parts together, does the Future prevent good bonding of the parts?  I'm concerned that the layer of dried Future on the part will act as a barrier, preventing the parts from bonding in the same way that chrome plated parts do not bond well with regular plastic parts without using something like superglue.

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On 4/3/2017 at 12:16 AM, 426-Hemi said:

Applying "Future Shine" to tires to put decals on them, how is it best done? Sprayed through an air brush or simply brushed on? (I plan to make some Redline tires, and would like to try this stuff as I got a little of it and want to see/get a feel, of how its used....

-Thanks guys!

I recently did this to apply some white letters decals to a set of tires. I brushed the Future on and let it dry. I then applied the lettering decals and let them dry. Next I brushed some Future over the sidewalls of the tires and it looked pretty good. If you don't want the "shine," you can brush on some dull-cote acrylic over your decals instead.

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On 4/3/2017 at 1:16 AM, 426-Hemi said:

Applying "Future Shine" to tires to put decals on them, how is it best done? Sprayed through an air brush or simply brushed on? (I plan to make some Redline tires, and would like to try this stuff as I got a little of it and want to see/get a feel, of how its used....

-Thanks guys!

It can easily be applied with a Q-Tip for tires. It really does help tire decals stick better and gets rid of "silvering"

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I read that you can mix this stuff with talc to make a filler, anyone know the formula?? thanks

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Can that stuff be mixed with rubbing alcohol to thin it out even more than it is???? Just curious...:wacko::rolleyes:

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This is the stuff I got most recently:

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Works great (even though it says "Cleaner" on the label, which concerned me a little...)

2v2JRogZdxue8Lf.jpg

2v2JRYBAFxue8Lf.jpg

2v2JRYP98xue8Lf.jpg

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I have tried never get good results with it any tips on how to airbrush it

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I've used it on a quite a few of my models and they looked great. But now a couple have developed a craze to the look. Either I didn't wait long enough before I applied it or it's a reaction to certain paints. I know the one model was painted well over a month before I applied the Future shine so I don't know why it's happening.

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1 hour ago, ewetwo said:

I've used it on a quite a few of my models and they looked great. But now a couple have developed a craze to the look. Either I didn't wait long enough before I applied it or it's a reaction to certain paints. I know the one model was painted well over a month before I applied the Future shine so I don't know why it's happening.

Model Airplane World has been using Future since the '70s and this isn't uncommon. I've had it happen to at least one of my airplanes on which I used Future. This is why I don't use it much anymore. 

Fortunately, it's easy to remove: It comes right off with either common household ammonia or rubbing alcohol. CAUTION: Don't let ammonia anywhere near plated (chrome) kit parts, as it will strip plating. It will also strip some acrylic paints. Rubbing alcohol will strip AMT and Testor lacquers and some kinds of acrylics. Both are okay for stripping Future off anything that's been painted with enamels. If you applied decals or any painted trim over the Future, of course those will be stripped off too. 

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Isn't this the stuff that also works great as a dessert topping and a breath freshener? That's what I heard from my cat's vet's poolboy's 1/2 sister's aunt's chiropractor.

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28 minutes ago, RichCostello said:

Can this be tinted with food coloring to make window tint?

Yup!  You only need a small quantity of the dye in the mix for it to work, usually but it works great!

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22 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

Yup!  You only need a small quantity of the dye in the mix for it to work, usually but it works great!

Cool, thanks. Gotta get me some of that stuff.

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so i contacted Pledge to find out what exactly replaced future, this is the product that took it's place.

and just a heads up, if you contact them they will send you a vendor coupon for a free bottle.

 

pff.jpg

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On 1/5/2019 at 8:12 PM, RichCostello said:

Can this be tinted with food coloring to make window tint?

You can also use watercolors...chip off a small piece and dissolve it in the liquid. The water colors work well for washing chrome, so you get two different uses for a set of eight colors (make sure the set has white, for dog-dish hub caps) that cost a little over a dollar at Walmart.

image.thumb.png.55f634ae1e6d3f45123de839eaeacf8a.pngps

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 I now use pledge religiously on all of my windows, headlights or anything I want to appear as glass. I also use it to fortify cheap Walmart acrylic paint when airbrushing. I like the semi gloss finish When mixed with paint and also use it as an underbase for my decals and over the top of my decals before my matte varnish.  I however have stopped using it for any finish I want polished. I was never able to achieve the kind of deep lasting finish a polished Laquer clear can provide. A few of the times, I tried using it as a top coat, it would spray on really wet but would soon die back to a slightly orange peel finish. I tried polishing several times but maybe I polished too early as I would quickly burn through so I now only use it on anything that doesn’t get polished like car interiors, under carriage, military and weathered vehicles. Top 2 photos with acrylic yellow base and  pledge topcoat. Botttom 2 photos .with model master yellow laquer base and model master deep gloss clear after polishing.

690868C9-972A-41B4-937F-B103B09CCAC6.jpeg

65F72BA2-8C78-43E1-85D5-710059EC79B1.jpeg

8F1F1B5B-C4DD-478A-B498-230585941105.jpeg

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Edited by Evlwevl
Added photos

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I finally gave in and bought a bottle of this stuff. I am usually not a clear coat person, I look at it as one more opportunity to ruin my paint job. I have ruined a few with Testor's  enamel clear, Tamiya TS-13 and a try of clear lacquer. I live where it is warm and dry and really have not had problems with decals or plain finishes.

So, I do have a car that is partly painted gold that I need to clear before applying decals and after seeing a modeling buddies car that he coated with the floor shine, I thought I would give it a try. Worse case, I am out like $6.18 and I can use the stuff on the floor or something.

I have excellent luck with the Tamiya TS paints, although the TS-13 ruined a car that had been painted for years when I decided to make it more shiny. Now it is crazed and pretty much ruined. Not sure why that happened. Paint is such a finicky critter. Today I sprayed some Scalefinishes acrylic enamel  paint over some Tamiya white primer, which is my normal procedure and the paint weirded out in spots, having to strip the whole thing. That only happened one other time, maybe I sprayed too much on at once.

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I got a bottle to try yesterday. I used it today on a model i built a couple weeks ago. I was not impressed. I brushed it on and it was very shiny but I did notice some bubbles. When I checked it later it looked like the bubbles were gone but it had turned more dull. I used it over a model that had been cleared but was not very shiny. Was that a mistake on my part ? Does it need to be applied to bare paint only ? Better with airbrush I suspect. At least I can use it on some of my tile in my house I guess.

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39 minutes ago, cobraman said:

I got a bottle to try yesterday. I used it today on a model i built a couple weeks ago. I was not impressed. I brushed it on and it was very shiny but I did notice some bubbles. When I checked it later it looked like the bubbles were gone but it had turned more dull. I used it over a model that had been cleared but was not very shiny. Was that a mistake on my part ? Does it need to be applied to bare paint only ? Better with airbrush I suspect. At least I can use it on some of my tile in my house I guess.

That’s the dieback I was speaking of in the first two photo examples I posted. I don’t know if I was expecting too much but having painted 1:1 cars, I have an idea what I’m looking for and I just couldn’t achieve it with pledge like I’m able to do with laquer. It appears other self are quite happy with the results and their results look pretty good

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35 minutes ago, martinfan5 said:

It makes a great floor polish.

:lol: The kitchen floor looks great!

As others have said, I use it for clear parts and add it to craft acrylics to spray chassis parts. Tried it once on a body. Not impressed. There's other stuff that works way better.

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