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Using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine


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On 4/14/2021 at 8:01 AM, Zippi said:

The current project I'm working on will be painted with Ceramcoat Acrylic paint and I plan on trying Pledge Revive it this time around.  The video's I've watched show that it seems to be very compatable with Acrylic paints and lays down a pretty good shine.  Time will tell I guess.  

How did you make out with the Pledge?

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6 minutes ago, Rick L said:

How did you make out with the Pledge?

Rick, I only used the Pledge on a test spoon.  Ended up going with Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss because I wanted to try wet sanding.  Don't know if I could have done that with the Pledge.  

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  • 10 months later...
7 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Not sure if this is true or not - but if you’re a Future fan might be worth grabbing an extra bottle or two now…

 

Actually it's just had another name change , now it's called "Pledge - Revive It" .  I double checked the ingredients with my old bottle of Pledge Floor Care Finish and it's the exact same stuff .  Only six bucks on Amazon .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Pledge

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6 hours ago, Metalbeast said:

Why on earth would you use a floor polish as a clearcoat? I'm having trouble with the logic to that.

It is not a polish. It is a clear coat.

I find Future/Pledge to be not as glossly as lacquer clear glosses, so I only use it on race cars models. (Clean & polished street cars always seem shiner than race cars to me.) I also don't always like the way Future/Pledge sprays, so I only brush it on with a wide, flat nylon brush - self levels to remove any brush strokes (provided you don't go back over an area already covered).

 

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On 4/30/2021 at 2:53 PM, Big John said:

In my experience the Tamiya will crackle over time even on their own paint base.

I've only ever seen it crack under 2 conditions. Either applied too soon (one should wait about 1 week after final color coat) or if applied too heavily.

 

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10 hours ago, Metalbeast said:

Why on earth would you use a floor polish as a clearcoat? I'm having trouble with the logic to that.

 I kind of feel the same way. I know this has been a thing for many years but I have always just clear coated using the same paint but clear after my color coat. What if you have a blacked out hood (flat black) you pour the clearcoat over it and now its a gloss black hood. Just sayin' clear spray has always worked fine for me.

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2 hours ago, Mike C. said:

 I kind of feel the same way. I know this has been a thing for many years but I have always just clear coated using the same paint but clear after my color coat. What if you have a blacked out hood (flat black) you pour the clearcoat over it and now its a gloss black hood. Just sayin' clear spray has always worked fine for me.

You spray the flat black hood after clearcoating.

 

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12 minutes ago, vintagerpm said:

You spray the flat black hood after clearcoating.

 

Uh, if it were me I wouldn’t use a gloss clear coat before or after for a flat black surface-just flat black. But if it has to be clear coated I’d use a flat clear coat or dulcoat. 

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15 hours ago, Metalbeast said:

Why on earth would you use a floor polish as a clearcoat? I'm having trouble with the logic to that.

I see that guy on YouTube slather that stuff on a model, and cringe every time. I sure won't be putting that on my hard work. I'll stick with my clear coat. 

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15 hours ago, Metalbeast said:

Why on earth would you use a floor polish as a clearcoat? I'm having trouble with the logic to that.

You are correct, a wax has no thickness to it.  Waxes cannot be used as a clear coat.

Future (or whatever it is now called) is an acrylic clear gloss floor coating (which modelers found useful as a clear coat on models).  It has never been called "floor wax".  Look at the label. But for some reasons many modelers seem to assume that because it is for floors, it must be wax.

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10 hours ago, 4mula1fan said:

I see that guy on YouTube slather that stuff on a model, and cringe every time. I sure won't be putting that on my hard work. I'll stick with my clear coat. 

I saw him do it on the '71 Mach 1 and thought that thing is going to have drips hanging from the bottoms of the bumpers. Also don't you want the black rocker stripes to be a little satin?

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  • 3 weeks later...

It you dip coat the excess has to be wicked off, and the product levels off well. I used this method on a clear resin cockpit canopy for the Fisher kit of the Bugatti racing aeroplane and it dried to a high gloss.  Beautiful finish when dry.

Many of you guys out there have your own tried and trusted clear coating preferences. It is all down to experimentation at the end of the day to find what method and or product that suits you best. I tend to use automotive acrylic spray aerosol colours and clear that in the main work for me. When I airbrush I use Zero paints and clear automotive acrylic from an aerosol.

Edited by Bugatti Fan
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  • 1 month later...
On 1/2/2008 at 2:31 PM, Harry P. said:

Future is used as a clearcoat, as an alternative to other products. You can apply it with a soft brush (it's pretty self-leveling) or airbrush it. Some people even dunk the body into a container of Future and let it drip dry!

 

I've only airbrushed it, so I can't vouch for the other methods...but it goes on nicely via airbrush. No thinning necessary...it's the right consistency straight from the bottle. And all you need to clean your airbrush is plain old water.

 

The biggest benefits to using Future are that it's acrylic, so it dries fast and can even be sprayed indoors if necessary. (After all, it's meant to be applied to floors, so it's safe for indoor use.) And the fact that, compared to other types of clear, it's dirt cheap! You can get a bottle of it at the supermarket for $4-5 or so, and you'll have enough to last the rest of your life!

 

I'm not sure about polishing it, though. I haven't tried that. Maybe some others will chime in.

I started using the future polish after several fails with the testors clear resulted in having to completely start over. (Shot through an airbrush, as I've done for a couple decades). As stated, it self levels, is safe for indoor use and cleans up with water. The results are amazing. Deep shine, smooth finish. I'll never use the testors stuff again. Had to get mine off Amazon, but the price was around $5. And it can be easily buffed/polished with a soft microfiber cloth to enhance the shine. Try it....you'll love it.

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  • 1 month later...

Guys, is Revive It still on the shelves in the USA? Impossible to get here in the UK. Has it gone the way of Klear?

Assuming that no Johnson's similar products are now available can you guys suggest viable alternatives from other manufacturers. I'm not talking about dedicated modelling materials here, but a commercial floor product similar to Klear, Future, Revive It.

Suggestions welcome.

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41 minutes ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Guys, is Revive It still on the shelves in the USA? Impossible to get here in the UK. Has it gone the way of Klear?

According to the post earlier in this thread (March 12), this floor coating has been discontinued.

Discontinued products show up on amazon and eBay, but usually at ridiculously high prices.

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Saw some of the Klear racketeering prices on Ebay......ridiculous!

Came across Flory Models Utube video where Klear and newer alternatives are being compared. The guy in the video is comparing a new clear Johnson's product that is only available in the States as a very good replacement for Klear.

Anybody tried any other acrylic floor products other than any of the Johnson's brands. If so, what are they named and who made by, and how did they perform? I'm talking about commercial floor coatings that will do the same as Klear, not dedicated modelling clear coatings.

Edited by Bugatti Fan
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  • 3 weeks later...
12 hours ago, Big John said:

Curious.. Has anyone tried using the future to seal home printed decals instead of Krylon spray clear?

I've used it to seal old decals that want to fall apart. Applied by hand with a brush. Allowed me to use the decals, but made them a bit thick.

 

Edited by vintagerpm
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