landman Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 I should have recognized the Fulmore name too. I'm trying to remember if Burt just helped me with the restoration or whether he sold me some parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 (edited) I received the pile of stuff I ordered because I couldn't find my old stash . I am gearing up to mark up that drawing with dimensions taken from an actual frame I have. This job may take while as I have a hard time staying in the house in the summer, even a terrible one like we are having. Edited January 19, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 (edited) Well, the sun almost came out so I went to where my frame is and took a bunch of measurements as well as a few detail photos. Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 (edited) Hey Pat, Great to see you on the model cars forum as well! (Pat and I are both regulars over at vcca.org) If I were you, and was going to cut that roof, the place to shorten the length would be to cut at about the middle of the roof insert. You don't want to mess up any of the corners on the roof insert, or the corners of the windows. You're also going to have to put vent windows in too. An idea for getting the top to fit would be to look at how the 3 in 1 AMT '36 Ford is put together. It has an inter-changeable coupe roof/ roadster cowl that is cut along the same lines as what you are looking to do. The only problem is that you'll have to file down the metal doors. You only get one shot at getting that right! Another thing… measure the door and the gap behind the rear of the door and the rear fender. I think you'll find that the front edge of the door is in the right spot, and the rear edge has to be moved back. That may screw up your rear side window. That frame is different, not only because it is a standard, but also because it has the X member for an open car. Great job on getting the correct dimensions for your frame. That Danbury Mint model has extremely good details too. It may be easier to paint your real coupe to match it! I've been considering Brewster's suggestion above. I realize the corners would be hard to fix, but if I cut in the middle of the insert, won't I have a line where the texture of the insert will be scrambled? Edited October 9, 2014 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MachinistMark Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 I Figured youd knw him, the 34 chevy circle is a small one indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 (edited) Spent a bit of time at the bench tonight. Shortened the roof so the door opening lines match. It will be too short proportionally though. Ah well.... Also looked at how I could transform the X-member of the diecast model into the K-member of my car. I think I may have to fabricate it. Edited January 19, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 (edited) Heavy rains today, so I worked on the model. Started laying out the K-member. Not sure why I am doing this, no one will see it. Completed the disassembly of the diecast body. Removed all trim including the running board mats which are rubber. Started stripping the paint off in the sandblast cabinet. Got the hood done and part of the body before my old compressor threw a reed valve. Now it won't make more than 60 PSI. Edited January 19, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Finished stripping the metal body. Glued the doors shut. Drilled another hole for the handle on the rumble seat lid which will become a trunklid. After much filing and sanding the plastic roof sort of fits on the metal body The proportions are all wrong for a Master (the diecast being a standard) but once it is in place, filled out and painted, only those in the know will tell the difference. That is why I am still looking for one of those R & R jobs because they are based on the Master. Edited November 1, 2014 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66belair Posted August 17, 2014 Share Posted August 17, 2014 That is some nice work,very detail oriented. I don't think I have seen a 34 Chevrolet in person before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 17, 2014 Author Share Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Thanks Mike. They are not very common for a car which was produced in large numbers. Here's mine. I'm attempting to sort of duplicate it with this model. Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) Assembled the K member and the gusset plates to the frame. Relocated the battery to the front where it is in a Master. The proportions are all wrong but at least it sort of looks like the frame of a Master. Â Added a bit of putty to the joint in the roof. Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 26, 2014 Author Share Posted August 26, 2014 (edited) Had a can of the same light chestnut paint as the 1:1 made up. Did some sanding on the body. Attempted to make a division bar for the vent window using sandpaper wrapped around a mail to shape a thin piece of plastruct. I think it looks out of scale. Then I saw a strip of 18 Ga. brads. That is more like it. Next, I have to reshape the rear window to look like the Chevy's. The Ford's is more square. I thought I'd reduce a photograph to scale and then transfer the shape of the opening to some sheet and make an insert to fit into the Ford opening. How do I do that? Â It will be similar with the dash. The first one is the diecast's (a Standard), the other is the one in my car (a Master). I was thinking or deducing the photo to scale and using the actual reduced photo as the dash panel. Is there an application which allows to measure the actual size of an image as you reduce it? Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 bad55 stan Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Good progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 27, 2014 Author Share Posted August 27, 2014 (edited) Found a piece of plastic of the right thickness and cut an insert for the Ford window opening. Then with the help of French curves, I traced an approximation of the Chevy opening. The only thing that would write on that plastic was a leaky paint stick and it didn't shape well at all. I'm going to redo it in styrene. [url=http://s1176.photobucket.com/user/landman2/media/1934%20Chevrolet%20Master%20Coupe/IMG_0423.jpg.html] Edited November 1, 2014 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted August 28, 2014 Author Share Posted August 28, 2014 (edited) Scrapped yesterday's idea for the back window. Since only the top is different I cut a piece of styrene to cover the area that needs to be filled in. I then marked the outline of the desired shape and when my nerves are up to it I'll shape it. Meanwhile, started fabricating the hydraulic front suspension units. Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fractalign Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Its all looking very impressive so far but if you come unstuck at there rear window I have a suggestion. You could reverse engineer the window. By that I mean instead of cutting out and then carving the window, you would create a die or mould for the window. First you would measure the inside window area on your 1:1 coupe and then scale the measurements down. With the measurements you would create two templates. The first would be the inner template, that is the actual window opening itself. The second or the outer template would be perhaps 1mm larger. This one would be for the beauty line that follows the contour of the window opening. Once glued together these two templates would form the die or mould to create the actual window. It works best as press mould, I used Fimo for my door frames on my 34 Chevrolet utility. Fimo is a baking clay that when set can be sanded or glued to take on the characteristics of plastic. You will notice in the image of my ute model that the belt line actually dips down in the centre along the door. This belt line would have been almost impossible for me to recreate if i had not created the mould for it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 (edited) Here's the photo of the 1:1 car's rear window reduced to scale. Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted September 13, 2014 Share Posted September 13, 2014 whouw just loving this build <3 whow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thanks Richard. I'm talking with someone who can cast a piece in the shape of the rear window complete with the inside reveal. Looks like that will be the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybill1960 Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 (edited) I am loving every minute of this I thank you for your perssistance on the project Edited September 14, 2014 by rustybill1960 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) While the photo of the rear window in Posting # 67 is making its way to Australia to get turned into a rear window I finished stripping the frame. Removed the engine, exhaust, battery and front suspension. The front suspension was held there by minuscule rolled pins. It will be replaced by the "Knee Action" hydraulic suspension. I took a photo of the crossmember it mounts to in order to duplicate it to scale. Edited November 2, 2014 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Fried Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) I've seen SO many '32-'34 Fords with Chevy motors in them!! Please, would you PLEASE put a Ford motor in it? Somehow, I feel that if you would do this, it would bring all the planets and stars in alignment and help balance the universe! What do you think? Such a COOOL project. I look forward to seeing this one to completion. Edited September 21, 2014 by Southern Fried Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 (edited) Ground off the leaf spring mounts. Measured & reduced the front suspension crossmember. Set out to reproduce it or something like it in 1:25. Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustybill1960 Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 This is modeling at it's finest Thank You so very much for sharing this project Watching with much interest Later Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 1, 2014 Author Share Posted October 1, 2014 This is modeling at it's finest Thank You so very much for sharing this project Watching with much interest Later Russ Hey Russ, thanks for the exaggeration. I'm actually getting back in after many years off. I must thank you for the link to the "U". I found how to make the character lines on the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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