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1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.


landman
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  • 4 weeks later...

I received the pile of stuff I ordered because I couldn't find my old stash .

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I am gearing up to mark up that drawing with dimensions taken from an actual frame I have. This job may take while as I have a hard time staying in the house in the summer, even a terrible one like we are having.

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Edited by landman
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Hey Pat, Great to see you on the model cars forum as well! (Pat and I are both regulars over at vcca.org)

If I were you, and was going to cut that roof, the place to shorten the length would be to cut at about the middle of the roof insert. You don't want to mess up any of the corners on the roof insert, or the corners of the windows. You're also going to have to put vent windows in too. An idea for getting the top to fit would be to look at how the 3 in 1 AMT '36 Ford is put together. It has an inter-changeable coupe roof/ roadster cowl that is cut along the same lines as what you are looking to do. The only problem is that you'll have to file down the metal doors. You only get one shot at getting that right! Another thing… measure the door and the gap behind the rear of the door and the rear fender. I think you'll find that the front edge of the door is in the right spot, and the rear edge has to be moved back. That may screw up your rear side window. That frame is different, not only because it is a standard, but also because it has the X member for an open car. Great job on getting the correct dimensions for your frame. That Danbury Mint model has extremely good details too. It may be easier to paint your real coupe to match it!

I've been considering Brewster's suggestion above. I realize the corners would be hard to fix, but if I cut in the middle of the insert, won't I have a line where the texture of the insert will be scrambled?

Edited by landman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Spent a bit of time at the bench tonight. Shortened the roof so the door opening lines match. It will be too short proportionally though. Ah well....

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Also looked at how I could transform the X-member of the diecast model into the K-member of my car. I think I may have to fabricate it.

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Edited by landman
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Heavy rains today, so I worked on the model. Started laying out the K-member. Not sure why I am doing this, no one will see it.

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Completed the disassembly of the diecast body.

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Removed all trim including the running board mats which are rubber.

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Started stripping the paint off in the sandblast cabinet. Got the hood done and part of the body before my old compressor threw a reed valve. Now it won't make more than 60 PSI.

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Edited by landman
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Finished stripping the metal body.

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Glued the doors shut. Drilled another hole for the handle on the rumble seat lid which will become a trunklid.

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After much filing and sanding the plastic roof sort of fits on the metal body The proportions are all wrong for a Master (the diecast being a standard) but once it is in place, filled out and painted, only those in the know will tell the difference. That is why I am still looking for one of those R & R jobs because they are based on the Master.

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Edited by landman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Assembled the K member and the gusset plates to the frame. Relocated the battery to the front where it is in a Master. The proportions are all wrong but at least it sort of looks like the frame of a Master.

 

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Added a bit of putty to the joint in the roof.

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Edited by landman
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Had a can of the same light chestnut paint as the 1:1 made up.

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Did some sanding on the body.

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Attempted to make a division bar for the vent window using sandpaper wrapped around a mail to shape a thin piece of plastruct. I think it looks out of scale.

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Then I saw a strip of 18 Ga. brads. That is more like it.

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Next, I have to reshape the rear window to look like the Chevy's. The Ford's is more square. I thought I'd reduce a photograph to scale and then transfer the shape of the opening to some sheet and make an insert to fit into the Ford opening. How do I do that?

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It will be similar with the dash. The first one is the diecast's (a Standard), the other is the one in my car (a Master). I was thinking or deducing the photo to scale and using the actual reduced photo as the dash panel. Is there an application which allows to measure the actual size of an image as you reduce it?

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Edited by landman
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Found a piece of plastic of the right thickness and cut an insert for the Ford window opening. Then with the help of French curves, I traced an approximation of the Chevy opening. The only thing that would write on that plastic was a leaky paint stick and it didn't shape well at all. I'm going to redo it in styrene.

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Edited by landman
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Scrapped yesterday's idea for the back window. Since only the top is different I cut a piece of styrene to cover the area that needs to be filled in. I then marked the outline of the desired shape and when my nerves are up to it I'll shape it.




Meanwhile, started fabricating the hydraulic front suspension units.
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Edited by landman
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Its all looking very impressive so far but if you come unstuck at there rear window I have a suggestion.

You could reverse engineer the window. By that I mean instead of cutting out and then carving the window, you would create a die or mould for the window. First you would measure the inside window area on your 1:1 coupe and then scale the measurements down. With the measurements you would create two templates. The first would be the inner template, that is the actual window opening itself. The second or the outer template would be perhaps 1mm larger. This one would be for the beauty line that follows the contour of the window opening. Once glued together these two templates would form the die or mould to create the actual window. It works best as press mould, I used Fimo for my door frames on my 34 Chevrolet utility. Fimo is a baking clay that when set can be sanded or glued to take on the characteristics of plastic.

You will notice in the image of my ute model that the belt line actually dips down in the centre along the door. This belt line would have been almost impossible for me to recreate if i had not created the mould for it first.

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  • 3 weeks later...

While the photo of the rear window in Posting # 67 is making its way to Australia to get turned into a rear window I finished stripping the frame. Removed the engine, exhaust, battery and front suspension. The front suspension was held there by minuscule rolled pins.

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It will be replaced by the "Knee Action" hydraulic suspension. I took a photo of the crossmember it mounts to in order to duplicate it to scale.

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Edited by landman
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I've seen SO many '32-'34 Fords with Chevy motors in them!! Please, would you PLEASE put a Ford motor in it? Somehow, I feel that if you would do this, it would bring all the planets and stars in alignment and help balance the universe! What do you think?

Such a COOOL project. I look forward to seeing this one to completion.

Edited by Southern Fried
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This is modeling at it's finest

Thank You so very much for sharing this project

Watching with much interest

Later

Russ

;)

Hey Russ, thanks for the exaggeration. I'm actually getting back in after many years off. I must thank you for the link to the "U". I found how to make the character lines on the body.

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