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landman

1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.

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whouw just loving this build <3 whow

Coming from you Richard, this is high praise indeed! I am absolutely awed myself by your garage diorama.

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In order to see what I'll be doing, I bought a light for my booth.

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Edited by landman

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Added a piece of plastic to build up the bottom of the windshield.

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Sometimes it isn't the big stuff that takes time. Marked the location of the vent window divider. Made them out of 18 gauge brads. Filed notches so they'd sit in a fairly realistic position.

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Marked the new door line. Now I have to build up my courage to start cutting.

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Impcon is correct in post #89 in saying Ishould also change the shape of the rear quarter window. There is about 1/8 to 3/16 to play with. For that I'd need another '34 Ford roof.

Edited by landman

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Scribed the new door opening with a razor saw. Don't think it did the saw any good.

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Glued little blocks to the lower insides of the windshield. They will be radiused to look like the 1:1.

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Tried to paint a whitewall using a circle template. Didn't work. Will try later. The handbrake lever has a handle on top of it that isn't on the 1:1, so cut that off.

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Edited by landman

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Wow, the car looks great Pat! the model when finished looks like it will be equally as great, nice workmanship, bravo!!

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Wow, the car looks great Pat! the model when finished looks like it will be equally as great, nice workmanship, bravo!!

Edited by landman

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That has happened several times now. I write something below the quote and it doesn't show up. Anyway, I said thanks Jeremy. This is a steep learning curve for me.

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I've been sitting by watching this build and really enjoying it and al your attention to details.

That suspension system is something I've never seen .. guess was something that never worked out.. ehhe. Nice job replicating it.

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Thanks mike. They had it from 34 to 37 I think then went to a more conventional arrangement. It was a design by André Dubonnet, a French designer from the wine family. It is an actual independent suspension but it had some weak points which wore and caused leaks. They rode very well but were a pain to maintain. On the 1:1 I changed the troublesome needle bearings for bushings. No leaks yet.

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I bet you can't tell what's different here except the fresh primer. There's a couple of hours of filing in there to remove the reveal that ran above the top of the door.

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Began filing away at the windshield lower corners.Can't do much more until the roof is glued to the body.

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Added the engine, driveshaft, exhaust and battery to the chassis.

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Highlighted the battery terminals, fuel pump, starter switch and carburetor dashpot.

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Decided to make a fuel line. Ran it inside the frame rail much as in the 1:1. Hooked it up to the fuel pump.

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These are the battery cables on the 1:1. I'm going to try to add some to the model.

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While I was taking all these close up pictures I noticed the joint seam between the two halves of the engine and the molding seam along the exhaust system. I guess it is too late now but that would be something to remember next time.

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While our friend Fractalign is recuperating down under, I thought I'd take a run at making my own rear window. Using Fractalign's instructions in post #66, I printed the correct size photo on a label sheet and stuck it to a piece of styrene. I then cut out the actual window opening. As per his instructions, I cut out a slightly larger one. Instead of using them to make a mold, I glued them together. I will trim the inner one so the protruding material hopefully looks like a window reveal.

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Another thing which is different is the spare tire covers. On the '35 diecast they have a full face cover.

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On mine they cover only the tire and the rim.

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So I opened up the covers with a step drill. Then I smoothed the hole with a cone stone. Carved all the lips from the inside and sandwiched a wheel in there. They look somewhat like the 1:1.

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Fiddled with the window. Cut out the Ford window and inserted my home made Chevy one. I won't even hazard an opinion.

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Put some putty on the rear window joint and filed and sanded along the bottom of the roof to get it to mate with the top of the deck.

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Found another thing which won't work, when I made a bottom for the front windshield I followed a line on top of the cowl. I realize now that isn't correct since the windshield is flat. I'm open to suggestions as how to rectify that blunder.

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I will also attempt to make a better line for the front of the door opening.

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Spent some time trying to figure out how to make the bottom of the windshield mate the diecast's cowl. This is the gap I have to fill.

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File stroke by file stroke we are getting there. I am going to try for the tightest fit possible to avoid using too much filler which may crack.

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