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1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.


landman
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Turns out I have to file the ridge on top of the cowl to have a nice , flat surface up to the base of the windshield.

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I also realized that the back of the Ford windshield frame is flat which is better for this application, so it will go in inside out. After much more filing and sanding we are almost where we want to be.

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Edited by landman
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I had tried to paint whitewalls using the circle template method but since the tires are hollow like real tires and have to be "worked" over the rims. The paint cracked. So I have to figure a way of painting them already on the wheel.

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Dechromed and epoxied the windshield frame in place. Added a bit of putty here and there. I'll compare the apparent thickness of the A pillars with the 1:1. I may have to thin them out a bit.

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Edited by landman
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The whitewalls didn't work. Looks like I'll be touching up the wheels AND the tires. Discussing some interesting alternatives to that roof with Mr. Fractalign. This project may fall onto the back burner for a while.

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Edited by landman
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  • 1 month later...

Stripped the wheels and repainted them. Stripped the tires and didn't repaint them. We'll see. So far everything I tried to get whitewalls has failed. Maybe I should send them to one of the experts on here.

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Edited by landman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Pat! You've completed so much since I checked in here last! It's looking really good as you tackle each problem one at a time. For the whitewalls, I hand paint them, but make sure that you use a water based acrylic paint. The oil based stuff goes gunky on the rubber and never dries. My comment with looking at the 1936 Ford kit was to check out how they changed a roadster to a coupe. The body is built so that the roof of the coupe incorporates the top of the cowl area as well, that way the entire windshield frame/cowl shape can be switched between roadster and coupe. It's too late for how you've cut it now, but I was referring to cutting the Ford roof off with the cowl top intact, and fitting the whole section to the Chevy body. You didn't show us how the cut through the roof insert went. If it is ruined, I would smooth it, then cut a piece of masking tape the right shape and paint it for the insert. The tape has the texture you're looking for. Excellent job so far. I like the Knee-Action that you built!

For you 1934 Chevrolet lovers out there, here's I shot I took in Flint 2011 at the VCCA's 50th Anniversary meet. The yellow car is Mark Fullmer's Grandpa's car. There were 6 Master Cabriolet's at this meet. Likely never see six of them all together again!

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Pat! You've completed so much since I checked in here last! It's looking really good as you tackle each problem one at a time. For the whitewalls, I hand paint them, but make sure that you use a water based acrylic paint. The oil based stuff goes gunky on the rubber and never dries. My comment with looking at the 1936 Ford kit was to check out how they changed a roadster to a coupe. The body is built so that the roof of the coupe incorporates the top of the cowl area as well, that way the entire windshield frame/cowl shape can be switched between roadster and coupe. It's too late for how you've cut it now, but I was referring to cutting the Ford roof off with the cowl top intact, and fitting the whole section to the Chevy body. You didn't show us how the cut through the roof insert went. If it is ruined, I would smooth it, then cut a piece of masking tape the right shape and paint it for the insert. The tape has the texture you're looking for. Excellent job so far. I like the Knee-Action that you built!

For you 1934 Chevrolet lovers out there, here's I shot I took in Flint 2011 at the VCCA's 50th Anniversary meet. The yellow car is Mark Fullmer's Grandpa's car. There were 6 Master Cabriolet's at this meet. Likely never see six of them all together again!

IMG_1037.jpg

Thanks Bruce. I have bought another '34 Ford to start again on the roof. We'll see how that goes. As far as your photo goes, I think the beige one is the one where I got my paint scheme.

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  • 4 weeks later...

.A lot of the bling on the first diecast was broken and I had broken some myself trying to remove them. Tonight I spent some time carefully pusing the stems out on the other body and repairing broken pieces. Looks like I'll have enough of everything between the two of them.

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Edited by landman
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  • 4 weeks later...
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Hey guys, I just wanted to say how much I'm liking your progress on your 34 chevy master build. Well done! 

I'm also looking to try and find someone that could help me acquire a 34 chevy master 5 window body as well? Can someone here help me find someone? Robert (fractalign) perhaps? I'm trying to get what parts I can to make a 1/24, 1/25 scale replica of "Nux's car" from the movie "Mad Max Fury Road" and I'm finding that I could also use some help identifying engine parts and suspension parts? I have a lot of pictures I could send to someone. If they could possibly help me?! 

I apologize for writing this on your topic page Pat(landman), I was just hoping that because it's the same vehicle body I need that you have, that perhaps you might be willing to please offer me some advice or guide me in the right direction, or know who I could contact to acquire a 1/24, 1/25 scale 34 chevy master body? 

Thanks so much, keep up the awesome work.  Loving watching your masterful craftsmanship at work! 

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Hi Tony,

Nice to see someone else interested in the '34 Chevy. Unfortunately there appears to be no such thin as a 1:15 '34 Chevy. as you can see I had started mine using a '35 Standard diecast roadster and was well on my way to fabricate a roof out of one from a '34 Ford kit. That is until our friend Robert Sharp down under offered to build me a roof. There was a chopped version offered by an outfit called R&R (see first post in this thresd) but I understand they aren't in business any more and it is out of production. Unless you can find someone wo has one I'm afraid you'll have to scratch build it. There is however, a 1:20 metal kit of a '32 5 window. Bu that isn't what you are looking for. Hope this helps.

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Hey Pat thanks for getting back to me. I've found out the same thing, that there is no 34 chevy masters available on the scale I need(1/24, 1/25), so I did buy a 32 ford as I thought it was the closest, but the 34 I suppose I could alter as well. But what I was really hoping was that I could somehow get a hold of Robert Sharp(fractalign) to see if he might have anymore cast available or maybe just the firewall area. From the doors and the front windshield to the firewall, that is the main area I need, the rest I feel I can hopefully work my 32 ford to appear as close to a 34 chevy master. Or I'll purchase a 34 ford. Can you tell me what R&R stands for by chance? 

By the way, beautiful real deal 34 master. Gorgeous! I'm so jealous! I've gotten into models because currently they are the closest I can get to owning one of these masterpieces. But I keep choosing to replicate cars that have no kits available. And on top of that the cars from the movie I am trying to replicate cars from, was mostly filmed in Australia, so most of the cars are Australian, like Holden's, and Pirentti(not certain if it's Australian), and the Falcon XB coupe, to name but a few. So locating cars that appear close has been difficult to say the least. But that can be part of the enjoyment also. The hunt and the gratification of building something from stratch, or from another car....that said I'd still love to get that R&R version if possible!? 

But thanks again for your reply, it's really appreciated. Hopefully I can talk with Robert and see if he can possibly help me get started. I'm enjoying watching your progress, keep going! 

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Have you thought about going to an automotive paint supply store and seeing if you can find a spray can of SEM vinyl interior dye for doing your whitewalls, some stores can even mix the interior dyes for you, and if you look really needy and find a friendly salesman he might just pour you some pure white toner in a touch up bottle.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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