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Mr. Moparman

1969 Dodge Charger Daytona - 426 Hemi, Torqueflite 727 Automatic, T5 Fire Bronze

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Nice build! Now will someone tell me what the deal is with dog dish hubcaps with standard wheels? Especially on these cars, I mean, I get the sleeper type of car, but for this? It just makes no sense to me. The pointed front end and the huge wing don't just give it away, it screams it from a mile away!

There were very nice rally wheels and Magnum 500's that weren't that expesive or heavy. So unless the standard rims were like at least 8 inches wide with a deep dish, I can't see why somebody would order up a car such as this or a Hemi Cuda or a Road Runner this way. I sure hope these rims weren't available on the GTX. Sorry, I never had standard rims on any of my cars. I just don't get it!

Now, I'm not questioning your taste, it was fashion at the time to have dog dish caps, I'm just asking why people liked them? :huh:

I have asked this question several times myself, to no avail. Personally, I would have bought it with Magnum 500's. But, when I was planning out the build, it came across my mind that I have never seen a Daytona, neither in scale or in real life with the Dog Dish wheels. So, I put it in my mind then that I was gonna pass up the Magnums for the steelies.

P.S. - Sure they were available on the GTX! Mopar was notorious for giving people what they wanted without it being officially listed on the option sheet.

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I can't see why somebody would order up a car such as this or a Hemi Cuda or a Road Runner this way.

I would! I think it looks a lot better with Steel wheels and Dog Dishes. Mopar Rallye Wheels and Magnums were really nice, too, but I know I'm a steel wheel guy. They're just so good looking wheels and Dog Dishes just belong together with those wheels. Just watch the Cannonball Run thread in the Community Builds section... There I'm building a Charger Daytona, too, and it will have Steelies when completed. ;):lol:

Edited by W-409

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Nice engine and real nice touch adding factory markings. I agree with niko steel wheels and dog dish look great...

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So tonight I decided to put the car together, got the engine in the chassis, and the chassis in the car, and then DISASTER! I went to glue the front belly pan to the underside of the car, and a drop of liquid cement ran down the side of the front fender and ate through the paint. I am really bummed out about this, and it has trashed my esteem for this build. I don't exactly have a fix in mind yet, because the whole car is glued together, but I'm thinking maybe I could mask off the damaged area, sand it lightly back down to plastic, and then, using my airbrush, slowly add back paint to match the rest of the car. I don't know if this will work though. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.

IMG_0075_zpsbec9be9c.jpg

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So tonight I decided to put the car together, got the engine in the chassis, and the chassis in the car, and then DISASTER! I went to glue the front belly pan to the underside of the car, and a drop of liquid cement ran down the side of the front fender and ate through the paint. I am really bummed out about this, and it has trashed my esteem for this build. I don't exactly have a fix in mind yet, because the whole car is glued together, but I'm thinking maybe I could mask off the damaged area, sand it lightly back down to plastic, and then, using my airbrush, slowly add back paint to match the rest of the car. I don't know if this will work though. If you guys have any ideas, please let me know.

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Did you clear this? You may be able to wet sand and buff it out if your careful wet sanding, if not I think your masking and air brushing that spot would work fine.

Also you may be able to clean some of the glue off depending on what the clean up method is for your glue, if it will mess the paint up then forget it.

Like tamiya is suppose to be cleaned up with water, so personally I'd use some water mixed with a small ratio of alcohol, and hope it takes some of it off with ruining the paint there, that's based on the normal paint & glue I use

That may help aid in with the wet sanding, I'm sure with whatever you do, you'll be able to get that spot looking just how it did before the Mishap.

Good luck bro, and sorry to hear that!

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If you do decide to repaint that area, be sure to mask it of sand it down. And then prime, and the paint you spray over the primer has to overlap it(the painted area js bigger then the proned area) the same for the clear. Also don't paint all the way to the masking stay away from the masking or itl leave a big line.

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well Brandon, good to hear you got the motor, sorry to hear about the glue disaster. don't fret it though, take your time and do what the earlier posts have said. you can use the line for the fender/nose connection for an edge, that's no problem, mask off far enough, use low pressure and let each coat dry. I thought only stuff like this happened to me. hope I didn't ship along some of my bad luck. chin up, it's a great build, don't ;let this detour you from finishing this.

btw - here is a great page for items that are standard and extra on 69 dodge models.

http://www.andy440.com/69facts.htm

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I do know the esteem thing when it comes to mistakes like this. I get so frustrated with myself when something like this happens. It is going to happen to all of us and you obviously have great building skills so you will be able repair it. I think with sanding and using primer and building up coats of paint you can get it looking pretty good again.

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Sorry to read about your mishap- stuff like that really @#&*$, especially when you are so far along on the build. You might want to consider using a thicker, gap-filling cyanoacrylate (super glue/crazy glue) or 5-minute epoxy for that kind of assembly in the future. Put some of whichever you use on a palette of some sort and use a toothpick to apply just the right, small amount where it's needed. You'll have much better control over the thicker glue- no worries about runs- and setting time is much quicker. The secret is to do a lot of dry-fitting, without glue, so that you know just about exactly how the parts is going to fit when it's in place. And, yes, if you take your time and follow the advice offered above, you should be able to fix the problem. I look forward to seeing the finished model.

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"Exhaust note normal, oil pressure stable, doctor." 'Ok, let's start this operation"

I have begun surgery on the front end. I masked off the rest of the body, using a trick I learned from Star Trek models to prevent as many "tape-lines" as possible. I then started out with 600 grit sandpaper to get everything down level, then, using a Q-Tip and water to dampen the surface, I worked my way up to 2000 grit to smooth it all out. I then primed the area with Tamiya Surface Primer (bottled stuff).

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I then repainted the area body color and let it dry. I pulled the tape and volia! Good as new! I got a very faint tape-line down the side of the fender, near the bottom, but it's not that big of an issue to me. I am surprised I had this much success with the repair anyways. This photo was taken before I re-applied the clear coat, so you may see a very slight color difference. Now, in person with clear on it, you can't tell the difference.

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She now sits on all-fours! I now wish I had went with the race spindles in the kit, but I'm not ripping the suspension back out to replace them.

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I think the next update will be finishing her up!

Enjoy!

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The body work came out perfect Brandon! The re-paint blends right in.

Mike.

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Nice save on the front right fender there, I knew with a little patience you'd be able to turn it around. Great job bud.

Looks slick on all 4's

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I think it's time to crank over that HEMI and let this bird fly! She's done! This is by far my best build yet, and with the issues I ran into I can say that I am extremely satisfied with the turnout of this model. It almost seems like I could jump in and go!

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You may see more pictures in the Under Glass thread!

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Great job! Looks like you got that nose to fit nicely, mine was a bit troublesome. I remember it requiring lots of foil too.

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