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Henry J Twin Turbo - Didn't see that coming..........


Codi

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Hahaha! Tim, the magnets!

Upon your recommendation I acquired a whole batch of various sized Rare Earth magnets. I've had some serious mishaps will these silly magnets. I've never ever experienced magnetic fields like these things! Also, all of a sudden the soldering tip gets too close and I get a nice hot solder splash on a beautifully polished roll bar, or the magnets were too close and together and the whole construction collapses in the middle of soldering touchy parts together. Even to the point that small tubes were bent in the process and other joints had come apart!

I haven't had many burn wounds yet, but a considerable respect for small special magnetic force has become rule of thumb.

Question: With the new pics I see the double mounts for the shocks. I would say a small tube with flange pieces soldered on the ends, then brought into shape, and drilled. Could you give here some insight as well?

Thanks for the explanation of the rod ends, I understand what you write.

Extraordinary progress, I like.

Michael

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Michael, you're correct with regards to the shock brackets. Unlike the anti-roll bar brackets, which were machined, these we're 3/32" brass tube that I soldered some dirtmodeler brackets to on each end. I used a properly thick piece of aluminum between the two brackets to keep them accurately spaced and so they wouldn't move once I put an alligator clip over the brackets. Soldered and did some light clean-up and shaping on the ends of them. The brackets already had the small hole in it for the bolt to secure the shock to it. About 30 minutes or so. Cheers, Tim

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Ok, so I've just thumbed through this whole thread and my only question I have for you Tim is this.... What the hack are you? Are like half human-half CNC machine?!?!? Only joking of course. Like what's been said a number of times in this thread, your work is simply amazing. I haven't even seen a single piece that's crooked, or lopsided, or off in any way shape or form. That's quality. Plain and simple. Especially in 25th scale. You sir are a master if there ever was one. Not trying to take away from Chris, and Dave's phenomenal work in their respective builds, but my gosh man. Truly great work so far.

Watching with great interest.

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Ray and David, thank you fellas. I've spent the last few days making some headway on the brass rails for the back-half. won't go into all the gory details, but it ain't easy i assure you. many hours and still not 1 piece of brass soldered onto the backhalf. i'm at the measure FIVE times phase and then solder point. So many variables but I'm enjoying the engineering challenge. came up with some good ideas today on how to do somethings and I believe they'll serve me well.

Clint, first, thanks for the compliment but I'm not comfortable being compared to people / fellow builders that i know are better than me. I've never seen Chris's work beyond what everyone sees on this forum, but I know I am suitably impressed. As far as Dave goes, whom I've referenced many times on this forum....well, in my humble opinion he is the finest you'll see. I look up to him quite simply because I've seen his work and there is no comparison. Still, I do appreciate your compliment and take it the way it was meant. But if you ever get the chance to see Dave's builds in person, do so....you'll be suitably dumbfounded at what the man can do...I know I am/was. And if you get the chance, go check out many of other builds going on in BigBoyz and even the Nascar sections of the forum, I've come across so much amazing talent but if you don't check it out, you'll miss out on some really great stuff going on. I do hope you continue to follow this build and enjoy it as much as I am.

Cheers, Tim

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Well Tim I certainly didn't mean to make you uncomfortable. I just really do think you are very talented. I wish I had even a fraction of the talent I've seen here. I've spent the majority of my modelling days on 35th scale armor (which I got decent at), but I have very little experience with car models. I just never realized how much fun they can be!

It seems I was a bit too excited when I typed my last comment. To clarify, I wasn't trying to single anyone out, nor was I trying to leave anyone out. I completely agree that there is a massive amount of talent on these forums (on others too

I'm sure).

I'm sure you realize I wasn't trying to be negative or anything like that. I just try to do my best to make sure my comments make sense lol! :)

I will definitely keep following this one. And if you don't mind, I will probably spend the day tomorrow right click>save as on all the pics in this thread. :)

And once again, I'm rambling and probably making no sense.

As you were...

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Thank you Clint for your reply. I have taken your comments in the right way and as they say "no harm, no foul". I truly do appreciate the fact that you believe my build is worthy of your praise and that you place it in such esteemed company. I welcome ALL of your comments and questions as continue to follow along. btw, do you have a photo sharing site so I might check out your armor builds. From what I've seen, there is some tremendous talent building miltary planes and vehicles and I like to check em' out too.

Thanks Clayton and especially for the acknowledgement on the effort, it has been time consuming. My machining skills are novice at best but I firmly believe they're getting better as I gather more experience and my mentor continues to offer advice and insight.

Well, I'm off to the bench to see if what I made truly fits as expected. Then I can solder something on finally. :) For what it's worth, drawings are necessary as a guide but when making the pieces and test fitting them, you can "see" potential problems that I can't see on paper. And the truly tricky part is being able to figure out which piece of the puzzle gets made / attached first because I have to figure out how to even get my soldering iron onto the part to secure it. It would be easy to "paint yourself into a corner" if not done in a proper manner. Sorry for all the blabbing, gotta go build. Next post will have some new pics.. Cheers, Tim

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I do have a Photobucket, but not a lot in there. I just checked and there are a couple of finished tanks. King Tiger and a Panther G. I don't take pics, nor post very much of my builds.

Not sure if this will work...

http://s148.photobucket.com/user/armornv1/library/Model%20Builds

http://s148.photobucket.com/user/armornv1/library/Panther%20G%20Late

Also not sure if will let you get to any of the other albums. There's not much to see in them. some sculpiting, some miniature painting, started builds, etc. Feel free to look around though.

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Clint - I knew it.....you're pretty handy yourself. That King Tiger weathering is just phenomenal. Great job !

Today I FINALLY got started with getting the back rails on. In this small scale I have to be careful to work "inside-out" as I have to get the iron on it AND before I can move to the next step I have to clean up everything immediately as I'd never be able to get to it as the build progresses. Took me an entire week to get to this point but now it's moving along.

One of my crude drawings as my guide during this phase. Might seem hard to believe but it is incredibly accurate to work from. No laughing ya' hear.

inTurboStartofBackhalfRails002-vi.jpg

This pic shows the start of the first rails boxed out during a test fitting

inTurboStartofBackhalfRails013-vi.jpg

And these shots show the "box" triangulated and ready for the next vertical support rails coming off the main hoop. I'm really pleased with how things are fitting together. So far, so good.

inTurboStartofBackhalfRails035-vi.jpg

There are some other pics on my fotki site. Cheers, tim

inTurboStartofBackhalfRails037-vi.jpg

Edited by Codi
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Thanks for the diagram. The 6/32" I see near the baseline is the ground clearance for the body? The couple cars I've started that will not have the kit rears, I have the body ground clearance where I want it, but have a problem figuring out how to correctly attach the rearend to the chassis to keep that same clearance because I have to flip it upside down to attach it, since the wheel wells come attached. I know, good ol' fashioned mockups help. Your diagram helps.

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Tim... You are a true craftsman my friend. I love seeing this come together. So cool to see your drawings you are working from. Everything on your chassis and rear end is so precise and spot on. I am going to have to come up with a Jig like yours for future builds of mine. Actually the next build could use a jig for sure. Keep these gorgeous updates coming. I am always ready for more of them.

Hey Clint... Those Armor build are just gorgeous you go there. I have a few armor kits that I want to build and learn how to weather like that. They are an inspiration for some of my armor kits. Would love to see more of your work.

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Mike and John, thanks again guys. Glad you're liking it.

Dave (GoatGuy) - Check out page 16 of this thread, you'll see an alum. piece that is 5mm high (6/32"on the drawing) the chassis is set at that height and the body is supported during the build for test fitment by the two brass strips you see that stretch out from it. They're bolted on and can be removed quickly at any time. The strips are recessed into grooves I cut in the alum. so that the chassis and body match up at the bottom. It's worked quite well for me so far. Hope this helps.

Randy, you owe me (us) some pics. :) And thank you too as always.

Scott - great question and I mentioned it earlier but I don't mind sharing again. 1/16th for the bigger main rails, 3/64" for the secondary ones and finally 1/32" to bracing etc. I will go smaller on some things such as the seat supports but I'm not quite there yet. The sizes scale out in order 1:1 at 1.6" - 1.2" and .81" . These are as close as one can get in 1/25th to the actual build and if you saw the car in person, it is apparent that these are very appropriate. Too many times I see tubing that is too large on a build but if using plastic it is tough to use the smaller sizes I mention and to get the structural integrity for the chassis. It's one of the reasons I chose to do it in brass btw. thanks for asking and peeking in.

Thank you too Chris. I'm on the lookout for alum. or titanium tweezers and micro pliers right now as the magnets (although very effective and convenient) are annoying when they grab tools out of my hand. And it could be a really "bad" thing if it happened at the wrong time. I'm being very cautious when I'm working near them but the best solution is to find a couple of the "right" tools so I don't have to worry about it.

Cheers, Tim

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Tim.... I completely hear you about finding tweezers or pliers that won't get grabbed by the magnets. I did a search for some anti magnetic tweezers on ebay here is a link to some:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC2.A0.H0.Xan.TRS5&_nkw=anti-magnetic+tweezers&ghostText=&_sacat=0

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Pro%27sKit+1PK-101T+Insulated+Tweezer%2CNon-magnetic+Insulated+Anti-static+Tweezer+For+Soldering+Station&_from=R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XPro%27sKit+1PK-101T+Insulated+Tweezer.TRS0&_nkw=Pro%27sKit+1PK-101T+Insulated+Tweezer&ghostText=&_sacat=0

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=anti+magnetic+swiss+tweezers&_frs=1

Now I don't know if they make and anti magnetic and anti solder resistant... which like you said would need to be aluminum, Titanium. I know some stainless is non-magnetic but I do know that you can solder some stainless as well. you would almost need some sort of Phenolic or plastic type of pliers that would hold up to the heat the iron produces when soldering. I will continue to look because I would almost like to find something for myself as well since I am going to be doing some brass chassis in the future. I will even ask my Dad as he did a lot of soldering in his day and he may know of something.

Clint... you are welcome. That would be awesome if you did find pic of other builds.

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