Mooneyzs Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Tim... i have been meaning to tell you i know you memtioned using the smallest drop of super glue on some of the nts if you needed to remove them. I sometimes tend to use Micro scales krystal Klear on some of my hardware. It is the best white glue I have used. It dries completely clear and if you get any excess on anything you can wipe away with a wet paper towel. And if you ever needed to remove the part you can do so With little effort, much easoer thsn super glue. It has a good bond to it as well. Jist thought I would pass that on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Thanks Dave and Chris. I'll have to try that glue Chris. Anything that can prevent a big ol' mess is great in my book. Some pics of the backhalf....building up the upper rails and the "box" for it. This was a bit exasperating at times to make. Not overwhelming but tedious........I know it doesn't look like much, but I think I have 8 to 10 hours getting them done. Lining up everything in every plane and angle is time consuming. Please ignore some of the joints, I haven't had the time to clean them up yet. Cheers, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrozilla Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 We can't see the hours you've put in, but we appreciate the end result. For you Tim, you think so far away from the box that you have to build one to remind you of what a box is. Now if you'll excuse me, I have a Deora calling my name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Teresi Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Codi........just mind blowing.......I can`t get enough.......thank you for sharing your skills with us........hope to meet you one day and shake the hand of a true "Master Builder."......and maybe get an autograph.......or even better yet,buy one of your Master pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Hi Tim, now there is some delicate soldering technique. Is the rack, or bottom of the box for a battery? Are the "smaller X bars" crossing through the thicker tube? Excellent detailing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Joe - Appreciate your comments as always and your fantastic sense of humor. Reading your posts are usually good for a hearty chuckle or two. Thanks. John, It would be great to meet you as well. I have sooo many questions I'd like to ask you and to pick your brains. I admire your skills as well and we'll have to plan to meet at some future contest somewhere in the middle of the country. I don't get out west and I'm not sure how far east your travel. Someday......... Michael - Thanks...and I always look forward to your questions. The batteries will not be in the boxes. You'll see shortly how I'm going to triangulate the upper and bottom boxes with a "climbing" x-brace. I coined that term after seeing it done as a unique feature on one of Dave's builds. It makes perfect engineering sense and looks cool to boot. The batteries will be contained in the back of the chassis tree that I've yet to build. Braille batteries. (and my 3rd set of boxes to hold them). Regarding the smaller x-brace bars, nope. They are 4 individual pieces that I supported with 4 small pieces of aluminum to raise their level up to the thick bars so they were centered in the middle of the thicker (1/16") tube. Getting them lined up wasn't too difficult and I got lucky soldering them on the 1st pass. This is mostly all new for me too as the Willy's brass chassis was so dissimilar to this build. So I'm learning and creating many new ways (for me at least) to get them fabbed up. Cheers to all and for those that celebrate the holiday, Happy Easter! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 (edited) Tim... that is some gorgeous work. Everything is perfect and precise. I havr to agree with John that you are a Master builder. I would love to be able to meet you as well one day and see your work in person especially this build. I will have to plan to come out to one of the the shows back in your guy's area so I can meet you and as well Dave. I have so much respect for what you are doing and your work. if anyone can relate you about the multiple hours put in, I can totally relate. It doesnt seem like much work When in reality there is alot of test fits and measurements until it is right in our eyes. Keep up the great work and continue what you are doing. Edited April 3, 2015 by Mooneyzs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
futurattraction Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Tim, I have totally run out of adjectives to compliment the work you're doing on this build. Simply put, I admire the design, fit and finish of every single tube or rod you've soldered into this masterpiece. I have a couple new questions for you. How long have you been soldering and how do you clean up your joints, especially if you're not happy with their appearance or size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasser59 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Totally beyond description of mere mortals. Your work makes me think you were born with a soldering gun in one hand and solder in the other. I, too, hope to see this in person one day, hopefully before it all gets covered up with paint. Carry on Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Superb. Bankrupts the vocabulary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Awesome work as usual. I'm lookin forward to seeing what your gonna do for the batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 (edited) Hi Fellas, Someday I hope to get a chance to meet each and every one of you. Your enthusiasm for this build fuels mine. I wanted to take a moment to answer in some detail Scott's question on cleaning up my messy joints. (and we all do get them at somepoint when doing a big soldering job.....and I'm discovering the reasons why from my experiences on this build) This is my second attempt at soldering a chassis. My first was my 33' Willys as most of you are aware. Totally different cars and challenges. The Willys build was a great place to start and learn from but this is like going from sitting to sprinting and to heck with walking or even standing up before. I'll post the pic of the pieces I use for clean-up and below this pic (it's lousy, sorry) a brief description of its purpose and use for when I use it. 1. Micro round tipped dremel tips. 3 different sizes. Small, smaller and TINY. They're great for tough to reach places and for removal of small quantites of solder. 2. BRASS (do not use the steel wire ones, it'll rip through your brass) wheels. Use only on the lowest speed setting of you dremel. The wheel and cone shapes help get in tough places too and really brighten up the joints and remove rather delicatecly solder as needed. Be careful to avoid any kick back and never press the wheel forcibly on the joint. you can be to aggressive. Better safe than sorry and take of little bits at a time. 3. Dremel 220 grit sanding pinwheel. Reddish color. Don't buy the white ones, they're 120 and are far too agressive. You'll note one only has a few "flutes" of material on it. To minimize removal of too large an area, I simply cut out the other bands on it. This is one of the more aggressive pieces/ tools I use. It WILL take it off and quickly. Buyer beware. 4. MY favorite. This dremel polishing wheels cleanup everything in a really beautiful way. And its actually more agressive than other tools shown here but not like number 3. I will even trim down the size of the wheel to get into harder to reach places. This is a must have to making em' pretty. They have soft, medium and coarse wheels, I only use the soft (fine) as the others are too aggressive in my opinion. There, my secrets out. 5. You'll see a pile of files (diamond) that I thought were skinny and small enough for most jobs. Wrong. I use them infrequently BECAUSE of the 4 small perfectly round diamond files you see next to them. They are tiny tiny tiny files (sizes I think are .4mm all the way up to 1.5mm...or something like that) that I bought from Rio Grande (a jewelry trade supplier that all of you should check out) THESE are a must have for the round tubing jobs found on this build. Great for fish-mouthing joints too. Can get into hard to reach areas and I'm just glad that I discovered these. They are perfect. 6. Small thin sanding sticks I bought from MicroMark. I cut them to length so I can use them as needed. THe different colors represent the different grits they come in. These are VERY handy too. Inexpensive and I use them on so many other parts of my builds. But they're great for brass work too. The green pad next to the sticks is green scotchbrite pad. I cut it as needed but honestly, use it infrequently. Great to cleanup your brass before a soldering session though as it helps the flux and solder flow and stick to it. Hope this helped. A lot of trial and error to narrow it down to these. I can cleanup the joints on my recent session in about 30 to 40 minutes and make em' pretty using these tools. My last suggestion for anyone would be to practice on some solder joints that you mocked up and try each on first. A little bit of practice might save you a bunch of aggravation later. Cheers to all! Tim Edited April 15, 2015 by Codi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasser59 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Great tutorial Tim. Thanks a bunch. This will be very useful and save a ton of time once I delve into brass chassis work. Thanks again. BTW - isn't the Dremel Stylus the best tool that ever produced? Love mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Armornv Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Pretty sure we've all run out of descriptive words for this build. Your precision and overall execution is simply awesome. I have watched in awe at every update. Also thanks for the explanation of your cleaning tools, I had never seen number 3 before, and have to look for those tiny diamond files. They look to be very useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Amazing work!! This may have been asked before, but what do you use for soldering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Appreciated everyone. Brad....of all the tools I have so far at my disposal, I consider the Dremel Stylus to be the most "important". I've used up one so far and have 2 on my desk. No one was more surprised or disappointed than I when Dremel announced it was discontinued. UGH! The newest micro model (that's what they call it) is a dismal replacement in my own personal opinion. I've tried buying them on ebay and others and they're going for $200.+ now IF you even find one offered. If anyone has a NEW one they want to sell me, I'll pay ya' $200. no questions asked RIGHT NOW! Cato (BigBoyz) feels the same way. Mike, I've used only TIX solder to date on my builds. I do have some SilverBrite I bought not long ago, but I've no reason to change or try something new I've been so pleased with the TIX. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaughingIndian Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Codi, this is amazing and thank you for the outstanding photography as well. I'd love to say this is inspiring, but I'd have to relate to what you're doing first and I ain't there ... absolutely amazing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Appreciated everyone. Mike, I've used only TIX solder to date on my builds. I do have some SilverBrite I bought not long ago, but I've no reason to change or try something new I've been so pleased with the TIX. Tim Thanks, but I am also wondering the setup you use, soldering station, iron, etc. I have a Weller WLC100 new in box and a tub full of solder, flux, tips and other supplies. I just havn't taken to first step and try it out. Not sure if the WLC100 is good enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) I apologize Mike, I mis-read your question I use a 250 watt American Beauty resistance soldering setup. It uses electrical current to heat up the tips to melt the solder. Mine has the optional ( a necessity in my opinion) foot switch that controls the current. You can adjust the current (therefore heat) on the unit and the foot switch frees up a valuable hand to secure and solder whatever you're working on. I could not imagine soldering anything in 1/25th scale (or smaller) with a conventional soldering iron. It might have been done, but I'm just not good enough to even try. It's really helpful because you can control the heat in confined areas and not loosen nearby joints. Cheers, Tim btw, I bought the unit 4 years ago from Micromark. Not sure if they still offer it but American Beauty IS still in business and I can swear by their USA made quality. Edited April 4, 2015 by Codi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chernecki Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I apologize Mike, I mis-read your question I use a 250 watt American Beauty resistance soldering setup. It uses electrical current to heat up the tips to melt the solder. Mine has the optional ( a necessity in my opinion) foot switch that controls the current. You can adjust the current (therefore heat) on the unit and the foot switch frees up a valuable hand to secure and solder whatever you're working on. I could not imagine soldering anything in 1/25th scale (or smaller) with a conventional soldering iron. It might have been done, but I'm just not good enough to even try. It's really helpful because you can control the heat in confined areas and not loosen nearby joints. Cheers, Tim btw, I bought the unit 4 years ago from Micromark. Not sure if they still offer it but American Beauty IS still in business and I can swear by their USA made quality. Thanks for the information. I have seen those units, a bit pricey but I looks like it is worth the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MitchP Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Tim: I might be a rich man right now (or at least be in a better state for buying resin promod bodies, those cool promod '68 stretch Camaro frames/body combo's and LOTS of MAS alum. accessories and even completely built engines) if had known about the discontinuation. I bought the typical minimal dremel kit 2 years ago and have since been buying bits for spark plug holes in valve covers, etc. I'm sure the stylus's were available. I live in a rural area where there are small Ace hardware stores and specialized home repair centers not associated with Lowes, etc. If you PM me a part number, I'll scour our immediate area in these small cubby holes and I might have some luck. And no, I won't ask $200 from you Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Hi guys, Tim, I hope you don't mind me butting in here. Just a bit of info here. I've been using micro motors, or hand engines or whatever you'd like to call them for decades. I bought recently for home use a unit from Proxxon, you can dial the speeds from 5k to 20k, has a foot pedal and I just looked on eBay USA, a whopping $35! The thing is fantastic! Lightweight, burs change easily and it has good torque. You cannot stop it spinning with your fingers. I can highly recommend this thing. The guys in Europe are nuts about Proxxon equipment. Michael Edited April 4, 2015 by 10thumbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Mitch, thanks for the offer. As an FYI it's part number 1100 / Stylus by Dremel. If you see one plz. snap it up and I'll happily pay your for it and your trouble. Miichael, no worries and thanks for the info. I'll look it up on ebay today. I did buy something that looked like a stylus for a cheap price off ebay and of course it arrived and didn't work.....at all. I do have some proxxon tools and for the money their pretty decent. Here are a few pics of the climbing x-brace. Comp1839 used it on his camaro promod and I liked the design of it. It simply connects the upper and bottom rails in a triangulated fashion. This one had me a bit concerned because of all the other joints I had to connect it to and getting it to line up properly. This one made me smile how well it went together. Plz. ignore the joints....not cleaned up yet. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Tim, I can see now the bars climb! Fantastic work. Happy Easter. Michael Edited April 5, 2015 by 10thumbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy D Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Hi Tim, looks like I missed some updates! Wonderful stuff as usual, your work is always straight and true and so precise my friend. A joy to behold!!!!! Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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