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olsbooks, August 17, 2014 in On the Workbench: Big Rigs
Looking good so far.
Great start (keep your eyes on the ball lugnut)
Great job, already, Man....The engine is looking good enough to me.....I'm with you about the budget thing....Great job of improvising....
Lugnut and I are caught in computer technobabble!
I went and set up a photobucket account and I keep trying to copy and paste the link onto this forum. If I just try to paste it direct nothing comes up. If I use the "link" icon it locks up. OBVIOUSLY there is a death ray from Andomeda or solar flare as certainly it is not MY fault.
Lugnut is about to wet himself with excitement to show his new Detroit and beanie hat with propeller made from the cooling fan.
Well, since it was my suggestion, lets see if I can help out.
When you click on the photo you want to post from your album and Photobucket takes you to the screen with the large pic of the pic you selected, you should see off to the right hand side "SHARE LINKS" and "email@im", "direct", and "IMG" below it. The way I do it (using Chrome for my browser) is to left click on the box where the IMG address link then right click and select "paste" here in the reply box and while posting the URL address will show up as plain text but when you post the pic will show up like this:
While posting though, it will look like this, just with a set of [ ] brackets at both ends:
It must be my browser (I.E.) interacting with the model car forum site. Your instructions are what I usually am able to pull off hitch free but it wont work on the model car forum. When I go to paste, nothing shows. I got the option to paste so I know it is indeed grabbing the link but it just comes up blank on my post here when I hit paste.
There is an option that will keep Google and its brethren out of my life...just got to find it. In the meantime, I will just go and delete some old pix and posts.
So here is the update on the soon to be silver 92 with Lugnuts new beanie hat.
A quick update. Resourcefulness and sleeplessness are kicking in. We are scratching bottom in the paint dept and budget. We found a leftover can of silver exhaust header paint for the engine. The rest is bits of tempera paint along with a bit Testors bright silver. Decals are out due to lack of access to printer for now so we just wiggled some black, red, and orange blobs for the rocker cover logos and lettering. Illegible obviously...but the effect is there.
I say all this not to draw pity but to try and encourage any fence sitter out there to TRY. It does not take big $ to pull of something pretty decent. Look at the shapes you need and hit the second hand stores and Dollar General. The only total failure is when you fail to try. . The more we kick in the brain, the less we have to pull out the wallet.
And so, as Bullwinkle used to say "Hey Rocky!..Watch me pull a rabbit out of the hat....". Did not get a rabbit...but we definitely no longer have a kitty. For what was a 3408 and little more than phone wire shield, cutting board feet, and a little filler, it will pass.
To which Lugnut concludes... "Now here's something we hope you'll really like". Rocky & Bullwinkle followers will get that line.
Well done lugnut
Well, Lugnut got out the air hammer and mounted some wheels just for a look see.
The chrome plating with the kit on the wheels was just "too much" so I used an well worn scotchbrite pad and just made a few quick passes to knock off some shine and also put a bit of a phonograph record texture into them. This is near new early 80's rig. Long before every Tom, Dick, and Harry had a buffing wheel and jewelers rouge to get the mirror effect. Also, we decided to try a suspension test and it seems to do well. One thing is for certain though is the need for some sort of safety chain to keep the rear axle assemblies from swinging out and breaking something (shocks especially) when I go to pick it up. Not that I or Lugnut would ever forget....LOL.
Tires were roughed up with 220 grit on the treads and 440 on the sidewalls to take rid the flash and kill the gloss. I will go back over the sidewalls with a bit of used engine oil to finish them off so they have just a tad of shine. While not going for "showroom new", the goal is ALMOST new so there will be some light weathering here and there.
One thing I would welcome help on is suggestions on the cooling fan. I want to try and make it look like natural "fiberglass". I cant seem to mix up anything reasonably close and my talents at mixing colors are not the best. White, yellow, brown, and ?????
Oh, the brown stick coming out the top of the engine? A coffee straw that will eventually become an upper radiator hose. Kind of put myself in a literal bind though for the left side of the engine with the exhaust piping going to the turbo. What is that famous saying.... oh yeah....OOOPS.
"Hey Lugnut! Come here! I got a job for you....."
Lugnut lives up to his name.
Seems while poking around he found some chrome lugnut and frame bolt covers at the local truck stop. Well, for $3, this is what we get. No nasty seams like in the kit and a FAR better finish. We just need to make the joint where the two are glued together under a strap. These things were plastic and I just zipped them with the Dremel. There are enough size varieties to work for 1/16 tanks and air cleaners. Probably could do 1/25 tanks as well. Now we don't have the expense or hassle of BMF or Alclad for such a large surface.
While I really like the beautiful workmanship in some of the aluminum ones you guys have and put out there, it was just out of my budget. Took almost 2 years to figure this one out but we finally got a solution.
When there is a will, there is a way. Patience and trial and error. .
Also taking a first stab at battery box scratchbuilding... so here is sort of how it will look.. The straps are just black automotive pinstripe laid on for effect only at this point and everything is just set loose.
Anyway, here is round 1.
Killer work !! Love the budget building, real fabrication w great results.
Just a suggestion for the images..try Fotki. It's free , and works w IE browser. I had exact issue here posting from photobucket, Harry helped . If I can help, pm me and I'll explain it better.
Thanks Jeff. PM sent.
Well, the powers in cyberland blame my IE browser as the root cause. Whatever. Well here we go with Firefox and Fotki for a trial. I will try it for a bit and see.
Here is our first attempt with a finished off battery box assembly. "Sit on it Lugnut!"
The majority is just sheet plastic. The latches are actually an unused set of horns from a 1/25 Revell W900 with just a little sanding. The grip tape is "scrap book" paper that I often use for mudflaps or floor mats. It has a bit of a texture but is quite thin so a bit of diluted white glue gets it to stick down just fine. A good warmup if we are going to tackle an almost scratchbuilt hood and cab.
Here is the prototype for the tank and bat box configuration.
Also, we are playing around with more lugnut and frame bolt covers. While a bit long compared to standard on GMC's, we might try this for the air cleaner. That IS possible with another set. though 1/4" smaller O.D. would be nice.
The "large" cap is a sample of a typical frame bolt cover I am working with and would work real nice for "tank ends" on 1/25 tanks for those that use PVC tubing.
As it is, it would work nice on the old winter weather version air cleaner with inside/oustide/inside ducting. But that is for another project and was never offered as an option by GMC if I recall though they did offer a "severe duty" version that had a raised cap somewhat like very early Mack R and DM's..
But for you guys wanting a couple of big hooters hanging in the breeze on your Pete or KW in 1/16 it is something to keep in mind. Cost? 1.59.
Ol' Lugnut went into a manic phase and got BUSY... While not as clean as I would like, for this serious of a kitbash, it will fly. We are just happier than a pig in slop over the lugnut cover fuel tanks. We used flat black on the "straps" and then went over them with black automotive pinstrip to give a bit of the metal over rubber appearance. The brackets themselves are semi gloss black. We forgot to take pix of it but actually assembled the brackets and straps like a "cage" for easy painting and then slid the tanks in. We got some tricks up our sleeve for the steps.
After sniffing massive quantities of glue, Lugnut wanted a true psychodelic trip. So he hit the silver paint on the engine again. We just were not satisfied despite glue and paint fumes with the scratchwork for the lettering or the dog chasing its tail logo (the two arrows in a circle arrangement) on the rocker covers and are going to hold out for something legible.
Lessons learned? Well, I surely wish we would have done something to run full length straight frame rails and put the steering box up front. It has kept us from mounting the battery box closer to the tire and I got a feeling it is going to haunt us again before this project is done.
The decision whether to go day cab or double bunk is still out there. We are holding out for a double bunk but hacking about 60" out of the frame is still quite possible..
Soon the fun will really begin. Probably will start with a cab floor and then take a stab at a superstructure sort of like that on the 1/16 gold nugget project after paint attacked the plastic and new cab sides and doors had to be made.. Hacking and bashing are Lugnut's history but starting a potentially complex build like this will take more than one deep breath.
Now to the band of experts out there, we got an "aw crud" to overcome. For those that have done these kits and are familiar with how the front wheels are secured to the axle, we have a problem. I use Tenax 7R glue and when I slid the front wheels onto the "spindles", I failed to get one full seated about 1/8' inch. since this thing is now set up to steer, the strength to play gorilla and rip it off is gone. Any suggestions on what I can use to soften up this glue even if just for a few seconds?
Hi Jesse & Lugnut Im not familiar with the glue you have used ,but I am familiar with the hubs. If you can split the wheel ring off you can get to the back of the hub and maybe cut it off the back plate. Then trim off the center rod and the reatach the hub and hopefully the wheel will still spin. I have done this once before just to get the hub far enough in the wheel and it did work ok exept my wheels are all glued to stop the thing rolling off the shelf. I hope this helps you some .
Looking really awesome, Man.....Everything looks great.....
A request for advice/mentorship from the scratchbuilders and outside the box thinkers.
I will post some pix shortly but am really scratching my head on the odd shapes/bends that are going to be required at all 4 cab corners where it rolls into the roof. I am poking around with empty solder tubes for vertical portions which have just the right radius and thickness if I cut them into "quarter rounds". That seems to hold potential
Anyhoo, at what amounts to a bent over "Y" at the top/sides of all 4 corners I am really struggling to try and pull off something reasonably clean for a first time. I am toying with virtually any low cost material such as shaping balsa cubes, dense foam, or ?????? I really don't want to go with channel and loading it up with putty. Somebody has been down this rabbit hole before. Just keep in mind my tooling and budget are minimal and this is my first go round at something this complex.
JT loaded me up with sheeting (THANKS JT) so trial and error with styrene IS an option. And it might be I just "layer it up" and shape it much like the valve covers I did on the engine.
Suggestions and better ideas welcome.
Peace and Merry CHRISTmas
Hey, that's good....I'm glad you got everything.....I was hoping you'd have enough plastic to run with a couple times over.....
Wish I could help you with that scratchbuilding, Man.....I'm ok with straight cuts and such, but compound curves stump me.....
What I find helpful in these situations is sleeper rooves and the big air bubbles(spoilers, fairings) like on the Pete 377's, Freightliner Fld's, things like that. Curved corners and things like that can be sourced from odd places sometimes. I kitbashed about 15 Western Star Constellations and threw all the cabs,hoods, sleepers, in a box. I used pieces of those things to scratchbuild all kinds of other cabs.
Thanks guys and to Terry, excellent point about "skin grafting" from donors. A buddy and I did the real thing years ago with a Jeep CJ we were restoring. It had a rotted floor pan in a horrible spot by the driver seat base/transmission hump/floor mat area. We cut out a front corner of a hood from an old Ford pickup, flipped it over and it dropped right in slicker than....well, you get the idea. Obviously, despite always trying to repurpose anything/everything I had forgotten that whole aspect. Thanks for the subtle reminder.
Stinks getting old....except that I can now hide my own Easter eggs and be amused for a year(s) finding them.
Thanks again guys. Lugnut is busy on the job and hope to have some pix in a week or so.
I was forming odd curved shapes, after trying several times...found a tip in a armor modelers mag. Taping plastic around pvc tubing! Toss it in near boiling water for a few seconds...perfect curves.I also heat formed around a cheap funnel for a particular model chute.
Hope this helps
Hey, Dude....That's sounds like a pretty good idea....I've been wondering how I could make some fenders and that just might do the trick.....Thanks, Jeff.....I know this tip will help me out....
Guess I haven't found my three bears porridge yet. Always too cold or too hot using hot air
(Not human generated!) on thin sheet stock. Can't seem to get it just right.
I will try some pvc and for sure hot water. Makes good sense.
No problem! I've received tons of great advice and inspiration from builder here, glad to contribute.
Oh..duct tape seems to work the best , and removes easily afterwards.
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