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diecast monogram Packard


kpnuts
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Hi all here is my next project. I won it off ebay, never don a diecast kit before

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How do I go about cleaning the corrosion and flash off it and do I need to prepare the metal in anyway before I spray it.

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You should post this again in the diecast models forum at

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showforum=51

Send a PM to one of the following people, who know this stuff well

Art Anderson

Scale-Master

Or ask your question on Google. This isn't the only model car site out there.

Edited by sjordan2
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To answer your question, you remove the flash by simply bending it back and forth until it breaks off, then clean up with files and/or sandpaper. You can clean the surface with steel wool, which will get into all the crevices better than sandpaper would.

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Hi all well I've started cleaning the bodywork, getting rid of the flash and checking the fit, I think I have a lot of work where that is concerned its a terrible fit
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anyway I sprayed the engine black as per the instructions.
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then I thought I would do some research as I want to do a good job of it and discovered the engine has no black in it, it's silver and green
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so thats where I am now, looking to find what I can use for the ht leads from the spark plugs.
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You can gently and slightly bend the fender unit to get a better fit with the body. But be careful... diecast metal is very brittle and will crack if bent too far.

As far as correct engine color, or getting the details correct, period... you need to do a google image search. There are hundreds of photos online that you can reference.

http://www.google.com/search?q=1931+packard+dual+cowl+phaeton&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=qkH2U_KBH4ynyATw4oCoBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1529&bih=893

http://www.google.com/search?q=1931+packard+engine&safe=off&sa=X&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&ei=HUL2U_rQKIb2yQS2soGoBg&ved=0CB4QsAQ&biw=1529&bih=893

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Thanks for that, yes I tried filling it to fit and nothing appears to be fouling but it still has that gap so probably should bend it, would it help to heat it up in order to stop it cracking.

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Well I've done some weathering on the engine, I am aiming to make this as realistic as i can (so dont expect too much)
I thought I would start the weathering the engine before I put all the other bits on as it wont be so easy to get at once they are on.
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Thanks for that, yes I tried filling it to fit and nothing appears to be fouling but it still has that gap so probably should bend it, would it help to heat it up in order to stop it cracking.

The man to ask about working with diecasts is Cliff Read. He is an absolute master. His forum screen name is traditional... I'd send him a PM if I were you... I guarantee he can answer your questions.

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it's not supposed to be but it does look it in the photos, not in the flesh though, tbh I prefer it in the photos anyway here is tonight's episode.
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I've made a start on the base too it's going to be a garage
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Hi all here is tonights episode.
I drilled out the distributor so I could put the HT leads in.
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then I made the HT leads out of thin solder wire.
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Then I cut them to length and squished the ends to make the tabs to connect them to the spark plugs.
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Then I noticed from the ref photos I have that there are rivets and badges on the starter motor and solinoid so I added them.
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still loads of detail to add to the engine bay, got an idea for making the jubilie clips for the radiator hoses and I am going to attempt to make the fuel pump and assossiated pipes as they are only vaugley moulded into the firewall.
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Ken,

Seeing your thread for the first time. While no expert, I can offer a few suggestions. As far as removing the oxidation on the larger portions of the body, larger hobby sanding sticks or nail files can help. Switch to finer grades as the oxidation is removed. Once clean, wash with a degreaser and rinse well. Dry immediately to prevent further oxidation. I don't know if you have "self etching primers" available in the UK. Application of one as soon as possible after the above step would be ideal. This primer actually binds itself to the metal for excellent paint adhesion. Depending upon your desired color(s) use either Tamiya Fine Surface Primer or automotive primer. As for filling gaps, you can use epoxy putty or my new favorite - "Perfect Plastic Putty". If the gap is large, back the area with some thin styrene super glued in place. If you have any other questions, PM me. HTH.

David

Edited by hooknladderno1
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Here is todays bit on the packard. the fuel pump and filter are not included with the kit so I decided to have a go at making them.
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and I had a go at making the seats look like old cracked leather(quite unsuccessfully) any suggestions ?
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Thanks Harry, took 3 attempts and about 4 hours but I was pleased with the results ( I actually had someone ask me if it was wood) that made the effort well worth it.

Anyway here is tonight's progress on the Packard
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