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Days Of Thunder

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Started this in '06 and finished in '07. Uses MM Grabber Orange for the body, flat grey on the chassis, and had to watch the movie about six times to pick out extra detail. I use decals from two kits for the fender sponsers(kit only came with five).

IMG_0067.jpg

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More pics to come after I get lessons on how to use my camera, my sister has to teach because its the same model she's had for the past year.

Edited by roadkill2525

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Posted · Report post

looking good Michael!!!

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Posted · Report post

Started this in '06 and finished in '07. Uses MM Grabber Orange for the body, flat grey on the chassis, and had to watch the movie about six times to pick out extra detail. I use decals from two kits for the fender sponsers(kit only came with five).

IMG_0067.jpg

IMG_0068.jpg

More pics to come after I get lessons on how to use my camera, my sister has to teach because its the same model she's had for the past year.

Very cool! If I could offer a suggestion........take a black Sharpie (industrial w/ yellow cap) and run it on the inside of the windows to give yourself the black outline. It will make your next model look 100 times better. Other than that, the car looks great!

Jamie

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Looks good! The color looks darn close as well. I'm with Jamie on this one too. The black Sharpie around the window frames is one of the easiest tricks to pull off. It also helps hide the glue around the window. Oh, and don't forget the white Goodyear lettering on the tires!

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Listen to them...I think I was the first to use the Professional Sharpie (I've been using it since 2004) and it is so much better then anything else...I won't do windows any other way! Not only does it look good and work great, is also forms a barrier that prevents super glue from fogging windows. Most of my windows are super-glued in and they don't fog, except on the not as rare as I wish instances where I get sloppy or apply way, way too much (making it ooze past the black and onto the clear)

I even bought about 50 of the things so I wouldn't have to worry about running out again! :D

While I'm not a big Days of Thunder fan...the build looks good. That has to be one of the rare-ist DoT cars built...I think that's only the third I've seen.

Edited by Billy Kingsley

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This is my third Hardee's kit, the hardest to find is the #46 City Chevrolet Lumina. I started using the Sharpie on windows on this build so they've improved since, I was having problems with the epoxy sticking on the rear window so I went with a CA glue to get it done. As for the Goodyear lettering what way do you guys do it, I've tried Tamiya flat white, MM acrylic flat white, Wite Out pen, and I don't really want to get rid of the raised lettering.

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This is my third Hardee's kit, the hardest to find is the #46 City Chevrolet Lumina. I started using the Sharpie on windows on this build so they've improved since, I was having problems with the epoxy sticking on the rear window so I went with a CA glue to get it done. As for the Goodyear lettering what way do you guys do it, I've tried Tamiya flat white, MM acrylic flat white, Wite Out pen, and I don't really want to get rid of the raised lettering.

Okay, first thing with the windows....get yourself some Testors window maker glue. It comes in a little purple bottle. It dries 100% clear and will not fog up your windows. It's pretty strong too. That's all I use and I love it.

Second....the tires. What I do is take the tire and flip it so the lettering is to the inside(towards the motor). Then you take a sharp xacto blade and cut the inner trim ring from the tire. This allows the rim to fit inside the tire on the opposite side. Then you can get yourself some SLIXX or Powerslide tire decals and your done. If you are going to try & paint the lettering make sure the paint you use IS NOT ENAMEL!!!!! Enamel will not dry on the rubber tires. Tamiya flat white would work or the white from the Testors Acryl line will also work.

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Ditch the raised lettering...it's too small and incorrect anyway. (they were stenciled on the real car).

I like using the Slixx tire sheet decals for the 80s cars, and the smaller ones for the 88-92 cars. They weren't any different in real life, but it's just one of my things. LOL.

They are tougher to come by, though.

The Slixx and Powerslide are the only good options, and both are equally as good to work with. The Slixx are slightly larger then Powerslide.

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I've found that by overcoating the white enamel with testors dullcoat, not only makes the white not be tacky, but gives an overall better appearance...

however, I'm ordering powerslide tire decals tonight from Mike...

Billy, and whoever else, can you go over what you do to apply the decals, including any gloss coats before or dullcoat afterwards...

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Im on a budget, currently trying to find a job so I have to make consessions at times.

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I've found that by overcoating the white enamel with testors dullcoat, not only makes the white not be tacky, but gives an overall better appearance...

however, I'm ordering powerslide tire decals tonight from Mike...

Billy, and whoever else, can you go over what you do to apply the decals, including any gloss coats before or dullcoat afterwards...

Clean up, prime, & paint the rims first. Install the rims into the tires & shoot a lacquer based clear coat(Tamiya or MM) over the entire wheel. Let that dry for a couple hours then apply the tire lettering decals. You may want to use a decal setting solution to improve adhesion. Once the decals are good & dry, take a dime & place it over the rim & shoot a lacquer dull coat over the tires. The dime keeps the dull coat off the rims. They are supposed to be glossy. Once the dull coat dries you may want to mix up a black wash or use a Tamiya weathering kit to dirty up the lettering a bit. This adds some nice realism & is really easy to do. I hope this helps...

web.jpg

web.jpg

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Clean up, prime, & paint the rims first. Install the rims into the tires & shoot a lacquer based clear coat(Tamiya or MM) over the entire wheel. Let that dry for a couple hours then apply the tire lettering decals. You may want to use a decal setting solution to improve adhesion. Once the decals are good & dry, take a dime & place it over the rim & shoot a lacquer dull coat over the tires. The dime keeps the dull coat off the rims. They are supposed to be glossy. Once the dull coat dries you may want to mix up a black wash or use a Tamiya weathering kit to dirty up the lettering a bit. This adds some nice realism & is really easy to do. I hope this helps...

the only time i can see that not working is in my current situation im in, im building the michael waltrip pennzoil pontiac, and it requires a pearl top coat on wheels and body to get the correct shade of yellow...

but otherwise it should work great......thanks for the tip.

btw, i really like the look of the 5 hole rims, they look real!!!

Edited by LVZ2881

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Im on a budget, currently trying to find a job so I have to make consessions at times.

very understandable, been there myself.......try the dullcoat over the white paint if you can...i've done it ith white lettering on musclescars for a few years with no problems...

Edited by LVZ2881

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Jay, did you sand the sidewall down at before begininng your decal process??

it almost looks like it

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Jay, did you sand the sidewall down at before begininng your decal process??

it almost looks like it

No I didn't. Those pics were taken maybe an hour after I dull coated the tires. It took them about 24 hours to level out.

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Well, I followed your advice, and it worked great!!

installed my painted wheels onto the tires, coated with duplicolor clear lacquer, installed my powerslide decals, used the dime trick, and coated with testors lacquer dullcote, and they look really good. its only been about 8 hours, so imagine they look even better in a few more hours...

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