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Mickey Thompson's Tempest Dragster Build


Doctordarryl

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Here's another one. This was also on my build list for quite some time.

it: Revell Attempt 1 Record Car, #7119, 1/25th scale

Builder: Darryl W. Peters

Body: The body panels were cleaned up of very light mold lines. The kit tach mounting hole in the cowl panel was filled with Evergreen Styrene rod. The body was wet sanded with a 4000-grit polishing cloth, washed, and dried in a dehydrator at 110° F overnight. The body panels were sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer and dried in a dehydrator overnight. The inside of the body panels were sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal and dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. The inside of the body panels were masked with 3M Blue Painter’s Tape and the body was then airbrushed with two wet coats of Tamiya TS-19 Metallic Blue, cut 1:1 with Dupli-Color lacquer thinner, using an Aztek A470 airbrush at 35psi with a 1mm (yellow) nozzle. The body panels were dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. Dzus button fasteners on the body sides and cowl panel were simulated with photoetched large screw heads from Model Car Garage. The custom decals from Scale Auto Details were cut out and placed into warm water before applying them to the body panels. They were positioned and blotted with a piece of clean dry chamois and the body panels were then placed back into the dehydrator for 24 hours. The body panels were gently washed with warm water and dish soap to remove any decal glue. They were rinsed with warm water and placed back into the dehydrator for several hours to dry. They were then airbrushed with two wet coats of Testor’s Wet Look Gloss Clear, cut 1:1 with Dupli-Color lacquer thinner. Before the second clear coat flashed off, the paint jar was filled with straight Dupli-Color lacquer thinner and a wet coat of thinner was airbrushed over the body panels. They were placed back into the dehydrator and allowed to dry for 48 hours. The body panels were lightly wet sanded with an 8000-grit polishing cloth followed by rubbing out with Novus Plastic Polish #2. The panels were polished with Turtle Wax Clear Coat and given a final clean with Novus Plastic Polish # 1. The body panels were assembled to the chassis using super glue. The 60s style tach was a machined aluminum item from Detail Master. The tach mount was made from printer’s aluminum sheet and detailed with a tach hold down strap, a hex nut made from drilled 0.040 inch hexagonal Plastruct Styrene rod, and screw heads from Model Car Garage. The fire wall was drilled for a hydraulic throttle line and sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal and glued to the chassis.

Frame: The front axel, radius rod, tie rod, and steering link were stripped of chrome using Purple Power cleaner, rinsed, and dried. The front axel parts were assembled using IPS Weld-On #4 and redone by airbrushing Alclad II Chrome over Testor’s Gloss Black. The rear axel was assembled with Weld On #4 and squeezed to fill the join. Once dry, the rear end seams were sanded smooth and the rear end was sprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum followed by Testor’s Dull Coat. The rear end cover was sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer. The frame was assembled using IPS Weld On #4 while mounted on a Micro Mark steel plate with magnets holding the chassis sides to square up the chassis. Because different slicks and wheels were used, the rear axel had to be extended 1/8th inch on each side so the slicks would extend far enough from the body. After the frame was assembled and dried, it was sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer and then dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. It was then airbrushed with two wet coats of Tamiya TS-19 Metallic Blue and placed back into the dehydrator overnight. The kit’s front torsion bars were replaced with fine, uninsulated wire. The throttle pedal and brake handle were sprayed with Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf. A gauge face was added to the gauge pod on the cockpit cross member. The seat was airbrushed with Tamiya TS-19 Metallic Blue. After drying, the back was masked with 3M Blue Painter’s tape and the seat cushion was sprayed with Tamiya TS-63 NATO Black. The seat belt adjusters and buckles were painted with Tamiya Chrome. The steering wheel was airbrushed with Alclad II Chrome over Testor’s Gloss Black and the rim was painted with Tamiya NATO Black. The kit’s front wheels were stripped of chrome. The 5-window rear Halibrand wheels were from a Polar Lights funny car kit. They were stripped of chrome and all wheel lug holes were drilled out. Each rear wheel consists of 13 individual pieces. The wheels were sprayed with Model Master Magnesium Metallizer followed by Testor’s Dull Coat. Valve stems were made from fine black insulated wire. Wheel studs were made from 0.020 inch Evergreen Styrene rod. Lug nuts were made from drilled 0.040 inch hexagonal Plastruct Styrene rod. The studs and lug nuts were assembled with IPS Weld-On #4 and painted with Model Master Steel Metallizer. The axel stub was simulated with Tamiya Flat Black. The white wall slicks were from an AMT parts pack (AMT-PP001). A machined aluminum Moon Tank from Arrowhead Accessories was drilled for fuel lines and mounted to the chassis using their resin tank hold downs that were sprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum. A photoetched chassis loom from Arrowhead Accessories was used to route the intake and return fuel lines from the Moon tank to the engine. Machined aluminum fittings from Detail Master were used on the main fuel lines.

Engine: The kit’s slant 4 Pontiac engine (1/2 of a 326 V-8) was assembled using IPS Weld-On #4. The assembled block and head were sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer. After drying for 24 hours, the block and head were sprayed with Tamiya TS-23 Light Blue. The oil pan was sprayed with Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf. The freeze plugs were painted with Model Master Brass Metallizer. All chrome engine parts were stripped of kit chrome using Purple Power cleaner. The 4-71 GMC blower was assembled and the snout was shortened and drilled to accept a machined aluminum pulley from MAS. The timing chain cover was drilled to accept MAS blower drive and idler pulleys. The blower, timing chain cover, valley cover, valve cover, breathers, and lower block cover were airbrushed with Alclad II Chrome over Testor’s Gloss Black. A machined aluminum breather from Detail Master was added to the valve cover as a filler cap and painted with Tamiya Flat Black with a thin strip of yellow decal film to represent a label. The blower belt was from MAS and part number decals were from SAD. The water filler neck on the head was scratch built from Evergreen Styrene tubing with a turned aluminum cap and photoetched flange from Detail Master with bolt heads made from 0.030 inch hexagonal Plastruct rod. The fuel pump was sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer and drilled to accept fuel lines. The fuel injector was sprayed with Model Master Aluminum Plate and drilled to accept fuel lines. The fuel block at the rear of the injector was also drilled for fuel lines. The exhaust header flange was thinned and the header pipes were shortened and their ends drilled out. The assembled exhaust header was sprayed with Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf. The magneto was scratch built from telescoping pieces of K&S aluminum tubing which were assembled with super glue and polished with a piece of 8000-grit polishing cloth. A tan colored cap from a Morgan Automotive Details magneto had 4 wires removed and a 4-cylinder magneto top decal from SAD. The magneto body was drilled for a tach drive cable. The bellhousing and transmission were sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer. A hydraulic throttle actuator was scratch built from thin wall 1mm stainless steel tubing, drilled 0.040 inch hexagonal Plastruct Styrene rod, and a strip of thin metal with black insulated wire as the hydraulic line. A photoetched throttle linkage from MAS was attached to the injector rod and linked to the hydraulic throttle with thin wire. The shop rag stuffed into the scoop was made from a piece of cotton Tee shirt painted with Tamiya Flat Red.

Figure: The Mickey Thompson figure was from the Revell Challenger One kit. The base was removed, the feet drilled for wire pins, and it was sprayed with Testor’s Dull Coat.

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