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My first WIP here; '70 Dodge Challenger T/A, Parts


Roadrunner

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Not real sure if this will be an R/T or T/A (I have both), but I'll be starting one or the other very soon. In the meanwhile, I painted this base years ago, fooling myself into thinking it was something original; gloss black with multi colored flakes from a craft shop. My intent was/is to construct three inserts for the top; concrete, grass, and gravel, then use whichever one of them suits my mood, to display finished models on (display space is at a real premium here where I currently live).

12262014011_zps70dad0ea.jpg

Edited by Roadrunner
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Got a pic of the kit boxing Kevin? It sounds like the Revell kit to me with the option for both versions.

Sort of. This photo was taken some time back. At this point I'm not sure which one to choose, Monogram or AMT. (These kits are all in a storage facility right now, or I'd get better photos.)

models5_zps3a47366a.jpg

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OK, I still can't access my storage spaces yet, so I went ahead and ordered another Monogram Challenger. Today I picked up some Testors Icy Blue Lacquer for it, so do I need to spray this over white primer, or will regular light gray sandable primer be OK? It seems that since this is (hopefully) an opaque paint, the substrate color will be irrelevant?

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Kevin, that color over gray will darken it a little,

photo_zpse19fa42b.jpg

that interior tub is icy blue over gray primer.

Interesting. I'll probably go with white primer or base coat first then. I really like the color of the hood behind the interior.

That definitely looks metallic. If you want opaque don't use it.

Are you saying that metallics aren't opaque? I was under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that only candies were translucent.

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Are you saying that metallics aren't opaque? I was under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that only candies were translucent.

"Metallics" consist of tiny metal or plastic particles suspended in a tinted clear. This is so you can actually see the particles, or flakes. If the flakes were mixed with an "opaque" paint, they would pretty much disappear.

Because the flakes are suspended in a tinted clear, it can sometimes take as many as 5 coats, even when using Teasors "one coat" paints, to achieve full hiding and even color with no basecoat or primer show-through.

This is why painters of real cars use "sprayout cards" with black and white squares. When you can't see the black through the paint any more, you know you have enough coats of paint to provide full-hiding. This is especially important if the color is not going to be clear-coated, but sanded and polished. It's necessary to provide additional coats of paint after full-hiding is achieved to allow for the removal of paint on high-spots that is inevitable during polishing, to avoid light spots and primer show-through.

91414_Left.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Kevin, the body behind that interior is painted in testors Nassau blue.

It's beautiful. I'll probably end up buying a can. Thanks,

"Metallics" consist of tiny metal or plastic particles suspended in a tinted clear. This is so you can actually see the particles, or flakes. If the flakes were mixed with an "opaque" paint, they would pretty much disappear.

Because the flakes are suspended in a tinted clear, it can sometimes take as many as 5 coats, even when using Teasors "one coat" paints, to achieve full hiding and even color with no basecoat or primer show-through.

Makes perfect sense, now that I think about it. Almost immediately after posting, I got to thinking the same thing, if the paint was truly opaque, that would probably render the flakes more or less useless. Looks like I'll be using a white (or perhaps silver) base coat under mine then.

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I was finally able to shoot some paint on the engine today. Not much of an update perhaps, but I am slowly making progress. Frame is mostly finished and awaiting paint, as is body and interior. I expect that the tires are going to be the worst problem, as they have horrible seams on them, but since I'm going box stock, I'm stuck with them.

340_zps12362faf.jpg

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Say....that engine block looks familiar! Lookin' forward to some parts flyin on this one.

BTW Kevin: Thank you for looking in your storage in an attempt to help me out dude! Looky what I found on ebay for just under $20.00 to include shipping. And it's all molded in red too.......

Just got it in the mail today!!!sSig_Muahaha_zps56835599.gif

ReplacementkitinRed_zpsab054798.jpg

Edited by mustang1989
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In order to give some sort of visual variety to bottom area of car, chassis has received a base coat of Tamiya Nato Black. Rear end, springs, driveshaft and some suspension components, will be painted some complimentary shades. (Lousy photo, but until I get my light box setup, it's about the best I can do.)

nato_zps707785bf.jpg

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Hey there Kevin. I found out some information regarding chassis. Initially I had painted my chassis black but later found out that it was mostly body color. Here's a photo from one of my reference photos that I acquired through here:

Undercarraige2_zpsdfaeaaca.jpg

Not nit picking as you are off to a good start but just giving some info to you.

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