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Background diorama / Flatheads to Boxers Engine Rebuilders : new tool, new room

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Added a couple of doors (paper stickers). Gave them a frame, glass & knobs for relief. Peeled  the sanbdpaper off the floor, added a skim of wood filler and sanded and painted. If it looks "wooden" let me know, I'll try something else.

Put some of the stuff back. And, as you can see the equipment for the shop part has started to arrive. The basic tools, here a lathe and milling machine , are from scale equipment & such. The big stuff will be scratch built.

The shop itself is cut. From here on in, we add stuff....

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Pat

Your floor looks more like painted concrete than the sandpaper did. I might suggest that you put in a couple expansion joints though. On large floors they're usually 24 to 30 feet apart. the doors look good

Carl

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Painted the floor of the "shop".

Started on one end wall. This is an outside wall. Cobbled up a door "drum" to add relief to the sticker images.

Making a first aid case out of styrene. strips.

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What a nice job overall. 

I would tend to go more with some wood/plastic doors and windows, but the general effect is good. I like it.

Charlie Larkin

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What a nice job overall. 

I would tend to go more with some wood/plastic doors and windows, but the general effect is good. I like it.

Charlie Larkin

I thought I'd save some time but the results are so-so. That is why I added doorknobs, frames and a window.

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Dirirtied up the shop floor and the bottom of the walls as someone suggested. Started adding stuff for effect. Once the walls are done I'll put it in its cabinet shelf and will continue adding stuff on the floor.


   D[/

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Looks like a lot of well-kept, but used, garages. As before, it was too sterile. 

Very nice job on that.

Charlie Larkin

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Brought the "shop" into the house and placed it where it belongs.

It will need some better lighting. The photo with the truck used the flash. The one with the Porsche one of the leds from the house studio.

 

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nice ! i like it !

i have a few good idea's for you !!

when you print a sign for the wall ... take clear tape .. / see through tape .. and stick that on your print .. after that cut it out to size .. this gives you a little bit of shine to the sign and a tad of depth .. all my signs have that and it really brings it from a paper look to a more realistic look ..

also works great > print sign > put double sided tape on the back > clear tape on the front > cut to size and stick on the wall :)

when i make like a tin sign .. i put clear tape on the front and back of the print and then glue it to a thin piece of metal or copper plate .. the tape protects the print so the glue wont go in the paper and affects the print .. then i bend it a bit to get the look of a sign ...

and even using a thin piece of styrene > plastic under the print to get it spaced of the wall a bit gives it more depth :)

now you printed the overhead door .. looks pretty nice but if you print that door and cut out the sections wich would fold when it go's up , then stick them on a thin piece of styrene clear plastic over them .. and glue the sections on the wall with a tiny half mm seam in between it really looks like it could fold .. then some strips on the side where they "run" in ...

just some enthousiastic idea's .. i think would make it even more realistic and wuld not be that much more work :)

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Thank you sir. I'm going to try some of this. I'll also call on you for ideas about wiring in conduit when I build and install the big machines.

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hmm wiring .. i myself used thin wire .. and a superthin hollow styrene tube ...

so i made a small square piece from flat sheet plastic (old window blinds but you can use styrene or whatever) ...

then drilled a hole in the middle of the flat square plate ...glued the wire in the hollow round styrene tube , cut to the right side so it looked like a plug and glued that into the hole in the flat sheet ...

then glued that to the wall and it looked like a plugged in .........in a wall socket ...

 

i also have some wires from machines loose on the ground , not plugged in .. to make it look like the metal thingy's that slide in where there i glued in thin tiny pieces of small needle pins ...

 

here > like on the angle grinder and the battery loader

 

in front of the lift on the column .. i made a outlet with plugged in extension cord .. and a running light plugged into that 

 

here you can see the machines plugged in and then you might understand my explanation better of the flat squares with styrene round and a wire together 

 

found a pic from earlyer in the build so you see the pin 

 

 

and if you want to make airhose if you pull it tight around a round stick or ... and pull it tight it will stay like this > maybe for a compressor 

 

 

hope you can use these :)

 

grts richard

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I certainly can Richard. What I was meaning though is the high voltage wiring running in conduits along the walls. The large pieces of equipment would be running on 550 volts and would be hardwired to junction boxes in this system.

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i see , i would just use very thin round styrene or maybe something else you can find ......brackets from thin sheet of alu or copper or just styrene .. should look great :)

i layed a square box version along the walls to distribute the power ....thought it would be something different and because i made a lot of machines later on an never had a plan that worked best for me at the time 

Edited by crazyrichard

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Having sold the 1955 331 Hemi I had on display I built this one to replace it. It was purchased on eBay along with several other engines. A cross ram Z28 302.

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The Boss' new toy is in the storage room...

DSC_0183.jpg

Nice bike. Who makes these? 

Looking really good overall. The added activity and changing scenes adds to the realism.

Charlie Larkin

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Thanks Charile. That was the overall intent. Glad to see it is working. I'm planning several engine rebuilding tools for that shop (crank/cam grinder, deck surfacer, line boring machine, etc). Then I have to  learn weathering. An ongoing thing.

Edited by landman

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Hey Pat, this all looks great except you need to add baseboard trim.  Your walls look like sheetrock and no finisher would leave that edge unprotected.  Most sheetrock installers actually install the board about a 1/2" above the floor so it won't wick up floor moisture nor liquid spills. Then that gets covered with a baseboard trim.  Easy to do, just paint it black.

I need to do the same type of photo backdrop.  Right now the best I've done:

IMG 2324

I painted a flat board with Floquil railroad roadway spray paint.  I use my back yard as the photo drop for now. The board sits behind a piece of furniture in my kitchen. I pull it out and sit it on the deck as needed.

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Nice bike. Who makes these? 

Looking really good overall. The added activity and changing scenes adds to the realism.

Charlie Larkin

Charlie it is an "Atlas Editions" from their "Classic motorbikes" series.http://www.atlaseditions.co.uk/collection/Classic_Motorbikes/Classic-Motorbikes-.html

Edited by landman
added link

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