landman Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 (edited) I am working on a 1:25 model of a Ford mustang. The scripts front & back are individual letters. On the hood I am using, they are molded in. On the rear decklid, they aren't. the detail PE sheet for this car has the scripts. Ford goes on the hood and Mustang across the decklid. I have looked at many videos & tutorials about working with PE all of which were very informative. However, none of them show how to install individual lettering straight and with the proper spacing. Has anyone here ever done this? And how do you "chrome" something this small? Edited January 25, 2015 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I would use low tack tape as a guide. You could polish the letters before you take them off the fret for a chrome look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks Bob. Does PE polish to a silver color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 25, 2015 Share Posted January 25, 2015 I've done a limited amount of PE but here's one I did recently. I just measured the the width & height, divided in half for both, & then started with my center letter in the center of the tire cover & then divided by 3 on either side & marked with a pencil for the rest. I didn't bother polishing. They looked good to me. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 25, 2015 Author Share Posted January 25, 2015 I can see the center letter method working on the rear. As for the front do I: - Paint the raised letters? - Use the PE letter ON TOP Of the raised letters? - Shave the raised letters before using the PE letters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 It's your call Pat. I usually use the "paint over foil" method myself. But being as you have the PE letters & you're using them on the rear, I would keep things uniform & use them for all of the scripts. For the front. I would take measurements of the existing letters & right them down, or do some sort of template, then sand off the existing letters before painting. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thanks Bob. Does PE polish to a silver color? From the shot it looks like nickel that should bpolish up nice. Try some polish like semichrome or fritz on part of the fret to see if it looks lije what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark IV Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Back up the letters with some masking tape before you polish them, it will prevent them from tearing off or bending. I put the tape reinforced fret down on a wood block and the either use the Dremel with a polishing bit and compound or metal polish by hand. The nickel will shine up like chrome because the bright color you see on "chrome" is actually the nickel plating. "Chrome" is used as a thin sealer to prevent the nickel from tarnishing. On a model the tarnish issue is not usually a problem as the exposure to the elements is limited.Be sure to match the level of polish to the rest of the model's brightwork. You can make the PE look so smooth and bright that the rest of the plated plastic will look like dog doo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 Thanks for the pointers guys. Now for the installation tutorial. I've read about people using "Future" to glue them down. Others use epoxy. My problem will be picking them up and applying them without smearing everything while trying to "disconnect". I guess your pick'er upper has to be less sticky than the glue so it releases once the part has been applied. I can see my blood pressure shooting up on this one. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 I always make a very small indentation with a small and sharp dental pick just before they disappear during the sanding process. This will give me an idea where to place the P/E parts after the paint and clear are in place. The P/E letters will cover the small indentations as seen in the images here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Kucaba Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 I've read a tip about applying the individual letters to clear decal film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share Posted January 30, 2015 I always make a very small indentation with a small and sharp dental pick just before they disappear during the sanding process. This will give me an idea where to place the P/E parts after the paint and clear are in place. The P/E letters will cover the small indentations as seen in the images here. Marcos, what do you use as an "applicator?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruz Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Future Floor Wax. I place the P/E part as close as possible to the area and dab a very small amount of Future. I will then move the P/E part onto the Future. Once 100% dry, I will dab a bit more of the Future on top of the part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
St Louis Snacker Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I'm facing the same dilemma with the side Mustang lettering. I'm planning on placing a strip of Tamiya masking tape below where the letters will be placed. Then I'm going to make little marks on the tape just below where the letters will be placed on the body. This should keep the letters even and straight. I'm planning on using a very small drop of Tanya clear then placing the letter on to the clear. After the letters are on, remove the tape and let it dry for at least 24 hours. The next day repeat on the other side of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 I'm facing the same dilemma with the side Mustang lettering. I'm planning on placing a strip of Tamiya masking tape below where the letters will be placed. Then I'm going to make little marks on the tape just below where the letters will be placed on the body. This should keep the letters even and straight. I'm planning on using a very small drop of Tanya clear then placing the letter on to the clear. After the letters are on, remove the tape and let it dry for at least 24 hours. The next day repeat on the other side of the car. Sounds like a pretty good plan to me. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacko Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Who are the best manufacturers of this type of replacement badges and what is a good site to buy them? Thanks, Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fseva Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Who are the best manufacturers of this type of replacement badges and what is a good site to buy them? Thanks, JackI personally don't think you'll have much choice... in other words, these are all produced independently, and because there's so much expense involved in designing and making them, if there's already a set out there, no one will attempt to do a competing set that will just have its potential for future sales already inhibited. Regardless of the situation, imho if you can find a set by Model Car Garage, you should probably just buy it... you can be assured that it is a very good set, because MCG does not make garbage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Another approach is using Bare Metal Foil (BMF) over the scripts. Apply the BMF before any painting is done, keeping the trimmed edge of the BMF very close to the script.. After each coat of paint, use a small piece of wood (I prefer balsa) that has been soaked in lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the script. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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