Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum
Sign in to follow this  
landman

Photoetched lettering

Recommended Posts

I am working on a 1:25 model of a Ford mustang. The scripts front & back are individual letters. On the hood I am using, they are molded in. On the rear decklid, they aren't. the detail PE sheet for this car has the scripts. Ford goes on the hood and Mustang across the decklid.

IMG_1312.jpg

I have looked at many videos & tutorials about working with PE all of which were very informative. However, none of them show how to install individual lettering straight and with the proper spacing. Has anyone here ever done this? And how do you "chrome" something this small?

Edited by landman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done a limited amount of PE but here's one I did recently. I just measured the the width & height, divided in half for both, & then started with my center letter in the center of the tire cover & then divided by 3 on either side & marked with a pencil for the rest. I didn't bother polishing. They looked good to me. Steve

DSCN2920_zps9867f830.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can see the center letter method working on the rear.

2005_mustang_02_big.jpg

As for the front do I:

- Paint the raised letters?

- Use the PE letter ON TOP Of the raised letters?

- Shave the raised letters before using the PE letters?

Jan24152.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's your call Pat. I usually use the "paint over foil" method myself. But being as you have the PE letters & you're using them on the rear, I would keep things uniform & use them for all of the scripts. For the front. I would take measurements of the existing letters & right them down, or do some sort of template, then sand off the existing letters before painting. Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Bob. Does PE polish to a silver color?

From the shot it looks like nickel that should bpolish up nice. Try some polish like semichrome or fritz on part of the fret to see if it looks lije what you want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back up the letters with some masking tape before you polish them, it will prevent them from tearing off or bending. I put the tape reinforced fret down on a wood block and the either use the Dremel with a polishing bit and compound or metal polish by hand. The nickel will shine up like chrome because the bright color you see on "chrome" is actually the nickel plating. "Chrome" is used as a thin sealer to prevent the nickel from tarnishing. On a model the tarnish issue is not usually a problem as the exposure to the elements is limited.

Be sure to match the level of polish to the rest of the model's brightwork. You can make the PE look so smooth and bright that the rest of the plated plastic will look like dog doo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pointers guys. Now for the installation tutorial. I've read about people using "Future" to glue them down. Others use epoxy. My problem will be picking them up and applying them without smearing everything while trying to "disconnect". I guess your pick'er upper has to be less sticky than the glue so it releases once the part has been applied. I can see my blood pressure shooting up on this one. :wacko: .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always make a very small indentation with a small and sharp dental pick just before they disappear during the sanding process. This will give me an idea where to place the P/E parts after the paint and clear are in place. The P/E letters will cover the small indentations as seen in the images here.

post-510-0-98789400-1422628831_thumb.jpg

post-510-0-16091200-1422628839_thumb.jpg

post-510-0-69804600-1422628846_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always make a very small indentation with a small and sharp dental pick just before they disappear during the sanding process. This will give me an idea where to place the P/E parts after the paint and clear are in place. The P/E letters will cover the small indentations as seen in the images here.

Marcos, what do you use as an "applicator?"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Future Floor Wax. I place the P/E part as close as possible to the area and dab a very small amount of Future. I will then move the P/E part onto the Future. Once 100% dry, I will dab a bit more of the Future on top of the part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm facing the same dilemma with the side Mustang lettering. I'm planning on placing a strip of Tamiya masking tape below where the letters will be placed. Then I'm going to make little marks on the tape just below where the letters will be placed on the body. This should keep the letters even and straight.

I'm planning on using a very small drop of Tanya clear then placing the letter on to the clear. After the letters are on, remove the tape and let it dry for at least 24 hours. The next day repeat on the other side of the car.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm facing the same dilemma with the side Mustang lettering. I'm planning on placing a strip of Tamiya masking tape below where the letters will be placed. Then I'm going to make little marks on the tape just below where the letters will be placed on the body. This should keep the letters even and straight.

I'm planning on using a very small drop of Tanya clear then placing the letter on to the clear. After the letters are on, remove the tape and let it dry for at least 24 hours. The next day repeat on the other side of the car.

Sounds like a pretty good plan to me.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Who are the best manufacturers of this type of replacement badges and what is a good site to buy them? Thanks, Jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Who are the best manufacturers of this type of replacement badges and what is a good site to buy them? Thanks, Jack

I personally don't think you'll have much choice... in other words, these are all produced independently, and because there's so much expense involved in designing and making them, if there's already a set out there, no one will attempt to do a competing set that will just have its potential for future sales already inhibited. 

Regardless of the situation, imho if you can find a set by Model Car Garage, you should probably just buy it... you can be assured that it is a very good set, because MCG does not make garbage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another approach is using Bare Metal Foil (BMF) over the scripts. 

Apply the BMF before any painting is done, keeping the trimmed edge of the BMF very close to the script.. After each coat of paint, use a small piece of wood (I prefer balsa) that has been soaked in lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the script.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...